pilot bushing

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furydan

furydan

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I am installing a 318 from an automatic transmission into my 4-speed 65 barracuda. I know I need a pilot bushing in the motor and bought one. The problem is that it woun't go into the crank. The bushing from the old motor slides in and out of the new motor with no resistance. The new bushing will not fit into either of the motors. It looks like I would need to drive it into the hole with a hammer. Sohuld the bushing be driven in like that or should I use the old bushing that easily fits into the new motor.
Dan
 
yep, The bushing will need to be driven in, not crushed but it should be a tight fit. Is this a oilight brash bushing or a roller type? The brass ones can be damaged pretty easy.
 
A quick tric here; stick the bushing in the freezer (a couple hours), it will shrink it a bit.
If you can find a 3/4" x 1" cap screw to use as a driver, as the dia. of the cap screw will give just the right amount of clearance not to damage the inside dia. of the bushing, and the shoulder of the cap screw will cover 100% of the bushing's face, thus limiting the amount of damage. Or use a piece of wood/plastic, something soft not to damage the front surface.


All the best.
 
logged in and trashing all the poor ideas of bad engineering tonight. sorry! This idea of pounding the pilot bushing needs a sobering thought. Crank pilot holes were rought cut for cranks unless they were being used for manual trans, and I might add 318's usually were not manuals. Often they were not drilled deep enough, and even if you are 10 thou tight you will distort and collapse the bushing so that the input shaft will not turn smooth. This another reason you see 4 speed trans with cut off input snouts. Hate to say but ideal is you would take crank out and have a machinist use a mill and cut hole correct and press in the bushing straight. I also highly recommend having engine also balanced, as a manual trans will magnify any vibration, that the AT absorbed. CAst cranks of 318's have there own issues too.
I do know of those mopar adapter pilot bearing pieces that fit in larger pilot space. Also note that post 68 cranks have a larger pilot diameter for torqueconverter snout.
red
 
340butterduster said:
A quick tric here; stick the bushing in the freezer (a couple hours), it will shrink it a bit.
If you can find a 3/4" x 1" cap screw to use as a driver, as the dia. of the cap screw will give just the right amount of clearance not to damage the inside dia. of the bushing, and the shoulder of the cap screw will cover 100% of the bushing's face, thus limiting the amount of damage. Or use a piece of wood/plastic, something soft not to damage the front surface.


All the best.
Click to expand...

Does 'oilite' really react the way most other metals do?

Chrysler invented oilite from what I know.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
If you can't fit a regular pilot bushing in, try a desoto pilot bushing or a roller type that fits into the torque convertor register.
Click to expand...

I went to NAPA today and asked for the fancy one they supposedly make and I got looked at like I was crazy.........anyone got a part number for the Roller Type and where to get it??
 
mopar had it [carlsbad] $21-FC69907 at any parts store, mopar uses a diff # though the bearing has FC69907 on it....

I'll dig up the box tomorrow and give everyone the mopar part #.
 
they make 3 differant bushings i will look for the mag. that has them in there but i got mine from napa , there a reg. four stick cranks then a under size for auto to stick then one more for undrilled autos . i will look after work to night als
 
Boy Make a mountain out of a mole hill. Its a olite bronze bushing . Its supposed to have a .003 interfearence fit at OD. Measure the hole measure the bushing then peck it in there. You can ruin one of those needle bearings when installing the trans.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Does 'oilite' really react the way most other metals do?

Chrysler invented oilite from what I know.
Click to expand...

Yes it does react to temperature, like every other metal, they expand in heat and contract in cold.

Some more then others...Ask me how I know.
 
I am fairly certain when I researched this (since I will have the same problem of the non finished crank) that a magnum era roller bearing fits in the converter diameter hole, and should fix the problem.
 
i will keep looking 60 or 70 mag's still have a few to go. Well after a week? i found the mag.It's in a june of 1999 Mopar action under Engine thec. bush pilot.In the first page very bottom right . it writes "Threee basic types of pilot bushings exist. The standard size one "A", used to be avialable as Mopar 53298, but it went away in about 1990. Luckily, the aftermarket still carries it, some part bumbers are Federal Mogul PB286HD and NAPA-Balkamp 615-1026. O.D. is 0.941."B" is the NAPA 615-1033 undersized brushing-- O.D. is 0.914 for unreamed cranks. "C" is the current Mopar "narrow" replacement, 4338859. Avoid it." thanks to my oldes girl for typing that . it has a lot more if you can find the mag. als
 
I read more on the bushing. u have to check for depth in the crank. there is also a bushing that goes in the big or auto bushing and u have to cut the input shaft. als
 
alsdemon said:
I read more on the bushing. u have to check for depth in the crank. there is also a bushing that goes in the big or auto bushing and u have to cut the input shaft. als
Click to expand...

Cranks that have not been drilled AT ALL for the pilot bushing need the input shortened and can run the newer roller pilot bearing FC69907.

You can run a roller pilot bearing otherwise, without having to shorten anything.
 
I'm not a fan of those bearing style pilots that fit the converter register. They tend to fail more than the bushing, plus, I don't want hardened rollers potentially eating into an expensive input shaft. I like the bronze bushing style.

SKF B287 is the bushing style
PB876.jpg


I get mine from Kragen/Oreilly etc. Last one was about $10. IIRC
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=SKF&MfrPartNumber=B287

The bearing style is the same as a later model V6 dakota.

Here's a good reference where all this is covered.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...Number=3669791&PHPSESSID=&fpart=1#Post3669791
 
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