pinion adjustment

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terry

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well after years of wondering why my car would not leave the rubber marks on the street when I would do a burnout I always thought it was my ss springs that are for a 64-65 b body 3400 lb. but finally after looking at the pinion snubber it was about 3/8 " from the floor board. so once I remover the m/p snubber the tire marks are there. so what is the ideal gap for a 68 a body 4 speed ss springs. I will need to modify the pinion to get any more of a gap then 7/16
terry
 
Was there tire spin before you removed it and it didn't leave marks or did it just launch?
 
The ideal gap setting is where it produces the lowest 60' times.
 
hi there was always tire spin as if the tires were being kept of the ground slightly and I feel It was because the snubber was up against the floor board not allowing the third member to rotate enough for the tires to dig in
 
I removed the snubber, Don't need it. but if you must , I think with 4sp, proper setting is contacting the floor. I think
 
Congratulations, you took a car that was just skating the tires, and turned it into a full blown traction problem.
The cost of your blacker stripes is probably a half second in the quarter.
 
terry said:
hi there was always tire spin as if the tires were being kept of the ground slightly and I feel It was because the snubber was up against the floor board not allowing the third member to rotate enough for the tires to dig in
Click to expand...
That is exactly what a snubber is supposed to do! It transfers the axle rotation into downward push on the tires.
 
The snubber is to limit axle and up.
To much wind up and the tires start to hop. The load amount for drags manuals is normally seen at 1/2 to zero clearance.

This doesn't really work on the street. The asphalt is not traction friendly. The surface is greasy, full of cracks, irregular uneven surfaces and gaps that the tire rolls over, there is no traction. And the problem is made worse with street tires.
Hard, unbending, slippery.

If your spinning you ain't winning!
 
rumblefish I agree with you. the tires spinning is not good. I feel I just need to adjust the snubber where the tires dig in . as far as traction problem because I now am now leaving rubber marks marks it can be cured with good tires. but at least the rubber is digging in and not spinning on top of the asphalt. I do notice the car does pull harder with the pinion off.
 
Do you have C body shocks to go along with the Snubber? Do you have your torsion bars adjusted so that the nose is at least even with the rear, or slightly upward?
Thousands of 7 and 8 second quarter mile passes have been made using nothing but a pinion snubber and long shocks. It was the standard deal in Funny Car until 1967.
There is a whole tuning package that goes along with a snubber. Learn about it and your car will work right.
Your blacker stripes are not a result of the tires "digging in".. They are from increased tire speed..the opposite of digging in.
Your car feels faster because your gear/tire diameter/converter is not matched to your engine.
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
Do you have C body shocks to go along with the Snubber? Do you have your torsion bars adjusted so that the nose is at least even with the rear, or slightly upward?
Thousands of 7 and 8 second quarter mile passes have been made using nothing but a pinion snubber and long shocks. It was the standard deal in Funny Car until 1967.
There is a whole tuning package that goes along with a snubber. Learn about it and your car will work right.
Your blacker stripes are not a result of the tires "digging in".. They are from increased tire speed..the opposite of digging in.
Your car feels faster because your gear/tire diameter/converter is not matched to your engine.
Click to expand...
 
hi folks, well after carefully measuring the gap between the floorboard and the snubber its at 3/16-1/4 at the most. the mopar chassis book say's 0-1/2 for 4 speed cars but don't pre load it. so I will adjust the gap to around 7/16-1/2 inch and choose the best personal setting. I have actually set up the car by the info in the chassis manual#p5007160 for those of you who have questions.
thanks again
 
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