PItman shaft seal installation advice

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1968 Dart 270

1968 Dart 270

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Hi,My 68 Dart is leaking steering fluid from the pitman shaft seal. I bought this seal kit today from O'Reilly to fix it this weekend. Can anyone here whose done this offer any advice as to the best way to do this,what tools to use to remove and drive the seals in. What pitman puller I will need. I've read you can use the pressure from the power steering pump to blow the seals out off the shaft without a puller. Any advice would be appreciated.

Screenshot_20240326_160631_Chrome.jpg
 
Remove the putman arm, remove the snap ring, put a pan under the steering box, start it up and turn the wheel all the way one direction and it will blow the seal out.
 
length of PVC to drive the new seal in. it doesn't take much so don't go full ham.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Remove the putman arm, remove the snap ring, put a pan under the steering box, start it up and turn the wheel all the way one direction and it will blow the seal out.
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Thanks,so I will not need a seal puller then?
 
1968 Dart 270 said:
Thanks. The pitman is "keyed" so when I put the arm back on it only goes one way,correct?
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yes.

i mean, i *suppose* you could put it back on 180 and it'll steer like you're in that place where the toilets flush backwards.

you have a puller for the arm and tie rods, correct?
 
1968 Dart 270 said:
Thanks. The pitman is "keyed" so when I put the arm back on it only goes one way,correct?
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Actually, if I remember right, it's keyed in four places in 90 degree increments, but a blind man could get it right.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Actually, if I remember right, it's keyed in four places in 90 degree increments, but a blind man could get it right.
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*walks across shop*
*looks at arm & box on the bench*

bah gawd, he's right! i guess i never noticed.

i'd throw a paint mark betwixt the two, just to make it that much easier to knock it back together.
 
junkyardhero said:
yes.

i mean, i *suppose* you could put it back on 180 and it'll steer like you're in that place where the toilets flush backwards.

you have a puller for the arm and tie rods, correct?
Click to expand...
No,I have to buy one tomorrow. I think harbor freight has them cheap. Is there a specific one to get? On the videos I've seen on YouTube it shows people just taking the bolt off the pitman arm and pulling it down,they didn't take anything else on the linkage apart. They also show putting petroleum jelly on the seals.
 
junkyardhero said:
*walks across shop*
*looks at arm & box on the bench*

bah gawd, he's right! i guess i never noticed.

i'd throw a paint mark betwixt the two, just to make it that much easier to knock it back together.
Click to expand...
Yep,good idea. What order do the seals go? Thick one first then the thin one then the snap.ring?
 
yeah, the harbor fright puller will work-- i had to buy one the other week for... reasons... and make sure you have the right size socket for the nut too, it's a big mamma jamma.

from the outside in: dust seal, then circlip, then the inner seal. it'll be fairly obvious which one is which.

btw, from my highly calibrated eyeball, i think a piece of 1-1/4" pvc or conduit will work to press back in.
 
junkyardhero said:
yeah, the harbor fright puller will work-- i had to buy one the other week for... reasons... and make sure you have the right size socket for the nut too, it's a big mamma jamma.

from the outside in: dust seal, then circlip, then the inner seal. it'll be fairly obvious which one is which.

btw, from my highly calibrated eyeball, i think a piece of 1-1/4" pvc or conduit will work to press back in.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice. Guess I'll make a trip to harbor freight later. Are most folk here using dexron 3 as power steering fluid or should I buy specifically marked power steering fluid
 
I have never been so lucky the seal would blow out under fluid pressor, using the gear box bump method. I have seen on this forum using wood type screws and pulling the seal out, I would NOT in any way do this, your chances of scaring the shaft and box are quite high. I have used a mechanist awl and a small hammer and gently wedge in-between the seal's metal ring and the box and prying outward. If you can grasp the pitman arm shaft and wiggle it back and forth, a new seal will not fix the leak but only to leak again.
If and when you get the seal out, check the condition of the pitman arm shaft, check for grooves and nicks, light sanding may help. If the grooves are deep and cannot be smooth out, you can adjust the depth of the seal, making sure the seal lips are riding on a different height compared to what it was before.
 
I have broken at least two harbor freight pitman arm pullers. It all depends on how tight yours is. Sometimes they can be a nightmare to get off. Getting the pitman off is the hard part, the rest is a 5 minute job.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
I have broken at least two harbor freight pitman arm pullers. It all depends on how tight yours is. Sometimes they can be a nightmare to get off. Getting the pitman off is the hard part, the rest is a 5 minute job.
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I was going to buy this one from autozone since it's only $2 more than harbor freight. Would this be the correct size opening for our cars?

Screenshot_20240327_093309_Chrome.jpg
 
If you purchased the seal kit from O Reilly's, they do have a tool loan program. Put some money down on the puller, (tool rent) use it and return it and get your money back. Sometimes I like the tool, if it works very well, I just keep it.
 
I just hope both of the seals blow out under the pressure of the pump.
 
1968 Dart 270 said:
I just hope both of the seals blow out under the pressure of the pump.
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you'll need to remove the dust seal, then the circlip, then use the pressure of the pump to blow out the inner seal. you can't blow out both with the circlip in there.
 
junkyardhero said:
you'll need to remove the dust seal, then the circlip, then use the pressure of the pump to blow out the inner seal. you can't blow out both with the circlip in there.
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Yes,I understand that. I had read other threads where members claimed the pump pressure wasn't enough to blow the seals out,thats why I said I hope the pressure will be enough to do it. It's also recommended to put white petroleum jelly on the seals before sliding them over the shaft.
I hope to get to it this weekend.ill let you know how it turns out.
Just curious but how do people get the steering box out of there if they need to replace it? Theirs not much room. (I have a v8 car)
 
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Dicer said:
I have never been so lucky the seal would blow out under fluid pressor, using the gear box bump method. I have seen on this forum using wood type screws and pulling the seal out, I would NOT in any way do this, your chances of scaring the shaft and box are quite high. I have used a mechanist awl and a small hammer and gently wedge in-between the seal's metal ring and the box and prying outward. If you can grasp the pitman arm shaft and wiggle it back and forth, a new seal will not fix the leak but only to leak again.
Click to expand...

I've never tried to blow the seal out after seeing one blow fluid around the shop, making a mess, but of course you'd prob contain the area with a baggie.

I often use the "woodscrew" method, cuz once you get the seal out, you can see that the screw butts into the huge cast iron boss in the case, no-where close to the "shaft" unless you aim the screws 45* towards the shaft (thats in the middle). ( I accidentally discovered the screw-thread thing, cuz I was screwing in the slide-hammer screw, went too far, and with the screw butted inside against the case, - the rotation of the thread pulled the seal out. )
The old seal will be stiff with age, and less inclined to move with any shaft/bushing wear, thus leak, - but the new, supple/soft seal will be inclined to move a little allowing the seal to conform to some shaft movement.
Good luck .
 
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Inertia said:
I've never tried to blow the seal out after seeing one blow fluid around the shop, making a mess, but of course you'd prob contain the area with a baggie.

I often use the "woodscrew" method, cuz once you get the seal out, you can see that the screw butts into the huge cast iron boss in the case, no-where close to the "shaft" unless you aim the screws 45* towards the shaft (thats in the middle). ( I accidentally discovered the screw-thread thing, cuz I was screwing in the slide-hammer screw, went too far, and with the screw butted inside against the case, - the rotation of the thread pulled the seal out. )
The old seal will be stiff with age, and less inclined to move with any shaft/bushing wear, thus leak, - but the new, supple/soft seal will be inclined to move a little allowing the seal to conform to some shaft movement.
Good luck .
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So,as I figured,the old "be prepared" motto should be heeded. I dont want to start work on this only to be stymied by the blow out method not working. Harbor freight sells a seal puller for 8.99 or so,maybe I should pick that up too. What size wood screws did you use?
 
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1968 Dart 270 said:
So,as I figured,the old "be prepared" motto should be heeded. I dont want to start work on this only to be stymied by the blow out method not working. Harbor freight sells a seal puller for 8.99 or so,maybe I should pick that up too. What size wood screws did you use?
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They are "self tapping" screws outta my bins, not sure the size, take the replacement seal with you to help decide, thin, and sharp.
 
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