Pivot shaft to K-frame bushing fit

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Dart Gone Fishing

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When you put the pivot shaft into the K-frame hole by itself loosely, how tight is the fit suppose to be? Is it zero play or tiny amount of play? I assume once you tighten the nut to 145lbs, you would think it would not matter. When I took my lower control arms outs, the pivot oval lock-nuts were not torqued. Nothing looks cracked and the K frame sleeve doesn't have a ridge in it. The pivot shaft looks a little polished but no ridges. This after 200k miles.
 
They are slightly tapered and get tight in the pin holes as you tighten the nut. If they never get tight then I would worry.
 
Kind of like the strut rod I guess. I just checked the inside bores with a checking tool. One is enlarged on the end, the other one is not as bad. Looks like they are made of brass. Seems like it wouldn't be that difficult to replace as long you don't need a press. Do they sell these inner sleeves?
 
They are not brass and are welded in, barely. Where are you located? I'll be doing a little travelling in the first half of next week...
 
I'm just south of you. So you're saying that it's all one piece? Lots of grease.

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A better shot. Its out of round. Looks like the Dart won't be going fishing anytime soon. Funny thing is the pivot shaft still looks ok even though polished. Must be very hard steel. The other side still looks round.
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That looks like it needs repair. I wouldn't use it without replacing the tube, if one could be had in the proper size. What year is that? I do have ways of getting the proper size if it isn't a standard...
 
I can't tell, but that shaft looks ok. If you have the k-member out and want to take a drive I'd be happy to take a look to be sure. I'll be around town tomorrow, but out of town the next few days.
 
Don't think I'll be removing the k-frame. So if the tube is welded on the inside, how do you get it out? I might just use some JB weld and make it round again. Or maybe weld some more material inside and file it round.
 
You might be able to drill out the tube, but that would be very difficult with the k-member in the car. To fix that I would cut out a rectangle below the tube and cut the weld. Here's what it looks like in a late k-member.
 

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Its a deep socket with a sleeve liner made out of packing tape. The socket is hopefully going to pull back out.
 
But, it's also not the worst I've ever seen. It may or may not hold, but it won't cause loss of control. If it were my car, I'd pull the k-member, but this might work.
 
Well I finished it! Its much safer then it was. It doesn't try to change lanes when hitting the brakes anymore. It feels pretty good. The pivot shafts are well torqued now. I'll be checking them regularly.
 
I suspect my GTS may be suffering from the same malady. The problem is that I don't want to tear into it until I am ready to do the full resto, so there it sits. The k-member will come out, though, along with everything else. Need to finish my Barracuda first.
 
JAY BEE WELD???

You have got to tell me you are joking.....................
 
Ok. I'm joking. It had other problems also. The lower rubber bushing was totally destroyed. No press needed to remove. The shells were ok still. I just carefully mangled them with a jig saw and dremel and screwdriver.

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