Plugging heat crossover

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JGC403 said:
What have others done? Just drill and tap for NPT plug?
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They make a gasket that blocks the heat cross over. If asking about the air injection holes in the exhaust ports of the small block heads, you drill and tap. Some suggest welding the holes, I've always done the drill and tap thing with set screws.
 
IQ52 said:
They make a gasket that blocks the heat cross over. If asking about the air injection holes in the exhaust ports of the small block heads, you drill and tap. Some suggest welding the holes, I've always done the drill and tap thing with set screws.
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Big Block exhaust crossover in the heads. I have heard that the gasket deteriorates over time at the crossover from the heat. I thought plugging it would be a better solution.
 
its not round, how you gonna tap it?> BLock off gasket has worked, some intakes dont even have this provision.
 
I've run just about every mopar engine combination there is and trust me that isolating your heat cross over system is "just bad" unless your racing. Yes, they plug up and are a pain in the butt. The system is there for a reason and works with you heat riser valve. When everything is set up it really helps your engine. My case in point. I had a 68 Newport 383, 2 bbl., auto. It ran like crap when I first got it and I thought it was carb or induction problems because the heat riser valve seemed to be free and working. I discovered that the heat cross over in the intake manifold was plugged ( it did not get warm). I pulled the intake manifold and it and the ports in the heads we plugged rock solid. I send the manifold to the shop for hot tanking. I chipped and cleaned out the head ports as best I could without removing the cylinder heads (which is the right way to do it). Cleaned it up painted it up and put it together. WOW! night and day in the way the car ran & started up. it would get so warm in the cross over that the paint colored. Once the heat riser opened it cooled off the engine temp averages. Mother Mopar would not install or develop a system if they did not have to because it cost money. In short, it is there for a reason. :coffee2:
 

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as stated, works best in warm climates. Cold intake is a cranky intake...
 
If you don't drive in cold weather all you are doing is inducing heat into your intake system that it doesn't need .

Yes the car will be a little cranky till it warms up and if you are using a thermostatic choke it will not operate properly.
 
i use a thin piece of sheet metal and put it in between the pan and a paper gasket (or what ever there made out of) i have used a thin piece of aluminium and it burned threw. and the paper gasket that don't have a hole ive burned them also. the sheet metal i used one time came from a steel soup can and worked great
 
Just run an intake with no heat provision. Simple.
 
the wall said:
i use a thin piece of sheet metal and put it in between the pan and a paper gasket (or what ever there made out of) i have used a thin piece of aluminium and it burned threw. and the paper gasket that don't have a hole ive burned them also. the sheet metal i used one time came from a steel soup can and worked great
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That works, I've done it many times. I just use a peice of galvanized steel roofing flashing, it's thin and very strong. (easy to cut with tin snips too) I just bend in the top corners a bit to hold it in place when setting the intake down. Don't want them falling in !!
 
green1 said:
Just pound lead fishing weights into it.
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well i don't know about this. lead melts 621 degrees F and exhaust temps could easily get way higher then that. so im not sure that's the best but...
 
Fel Pro 1215 for RB's, 1214 for B's. It usually takes a few years for them to rust through.
 
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