Plugs, wires, and coil

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I quit using champion plugs cause they fell apart when I removed them.

That’s what happens when you detonate them.

Or, I know this because I had to warranty a set of heads that I did that got screwed up because the plugs were exploding.

Champion fine wire plugs have the porcelain around the center wire very tight. Much tighter than a standard center wire plug.

This guy was making over 3 hp/cid so he was making power.

Anyway, he had a set of heads that had twin plugs. So he ran one set of plus off the magneto and the other set off some digital ignition he had.

His mag was only 3.5 amps and the battery ignition looked weak on the test bench, so I hooked him up with fine wire plugs to help with lighting a blown gas spark plug.

The issue happens when you are on the two step. The plug tips cool off very quickly with no load and a bunch of fuel running through the engine. This was blown gas BTW.

So my customer would be sitting on the two step and the plugs would go dead cold. Then at the drop of the clutch the load goes way up. That means the porcelain goes from a little below atmosphere.

Anyway, the thermal shock from the plug being left on the two step and going dead cold to an instant later when the clutch load hits is staggering.

That extra head load would literally blow the porcelain right off the plug.
And it didn’t take long. It was under .5 seconds after the engine went off the two step to full load and that temperature shock would make the center wire grow so fast it would blow the porcelain right off.

Of course that **** embedded in the BC seats so I got to install 16 new seats in the head and do a new valve job.

I stopped using ANY fine wire plug that was going to be on a two step
 
Plugs dont foul unless the tuneup is wrong. I ran the same plug in multiple bikes for years and never fouled one.

Don’t blame the plug if your tune up blows chunks.
I've never had much luck with champion plugs, auto lite and others, no problem
 
The Chrys elec ign is only a marginal improvement over points in terms of ign energy. That is why the plug gap is 0.035", not 0.060". The additional energy comes from the cleaner ' switching' of the transistor [ versus points ] generates a little more back EMF.
One of the benefits of Plat/Irid plugs is that they require less voltage to fire them. So a fouled 'standard' plug may not fire because it is fouled...but a Plat plug will fire...& will keep doing it for longer. Ignorant people do not understand this.
Pretty sure all plugs today are 'copper'. Thanks to NGK. The copper is not exposed to heat, it is enclosed inside a nickel/steel jacket. Because of it's excellent heat conduction, copper plugs work over a greater temp range before fouling.
 
I use them on my imaginary cars too.

Autolite copper on the ones I drive!
I use solid Gold Plugs on my imaginary cars. My imaginary friend that works at the pretend auto store makes them from golden eggs.
He owns a goose he stole.
Copper is better, even though it's not.
I say this since it's all you need in a car that runs a carburetor. The ability to just swap the lower cost ones out while getting it in tune is why copper is better. At least for me.
I run the 15-20 buck a piece ones like OEM put in new cars. They used Iridium and Platinum and some of them are pregapped and can and will be damaged adjustig gaps. Those types were made for use on EFI computer controlled cars that installed them from the factory.
Those cars get them since they don't need - require fiddle with this that. High dollars plugs a waste on old cars.
When these are on sale I buy them. Some were a buck each.
The ability to just grab a new set of copper out ya trunk on the fly of lower cost plugs is priceless if ya need them on the fly too.

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i once tried the ngk platinum tipped plugs..... once. the bike i had (honda 400/4) melted the platinum tips so i went back to 'normal' ngk copper ones and no issues. i was only 17 and the poor little bike was mostly between 6 and 10,000 revs though, lol.
neil.
 
Also since many are viewing this thread just a PSA.
On cars and trucks that have points and electronic ign 1972 up until Magnum that share the same cap and rotor. If you but United Brand do not mix the United rotors with another brand cap. They are longer and will kill the cap.
Are fine if used with United Motor Products Cap.
Adding a cheap set of Autolite Copper to a RockAuto order and putting them trunk or glove box is smarter than not. Even if used to help Someone else. I have with a friends Mopar, Chevy, or Ford so is worth having on hand. Caps/Rotors/ old known to be good coil, ECU, Regulator, ballistic and a Wire or 2 is also the difference between a tow and drivering home.
They even fit most lawn mower applications.
 
Here is what the caution above was about. With rotors. The United is larger and only works with their cap. It will destroy a normal cap. And if you put the United cap and smaller rotors from others the spark has to jump to contacts on cap
The United Cap shares the later models rotor so they can just make one.
That is what I assume. Lots of p places sell these including online Amazon and Rockauto to name just two. They are fine if used as a set together

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Dan you should invest a few bucks and buy some old stock Mopar, Standard or NAPA.
Unless ya just flapping ya gums about getting a car.

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That's a great idea, I just threw away some old stuff from the quad I had. The NAPA dealer i buy from said that he has distributor rotors that are supposed to be longer than the factory ones and I told him to hold onto them for me and he said he would so tomorrow I can pick them up. The boxes are in rough shape but the parts are fine apparently they been on the shelf for a while but I don't care. Otherwise they were just going to pitch them
 
That's a great idea, I just threw away some old stuff from the quad I had. The NAPA dealer i buy from said that he has distributor rotors that are supposed to be longer than the factory ones and I told him to hold onto them for me and he said he would so tomorrow I can pick them up. The boxes are in rough shape but the parts are fine apparently they been on the shelf for a while but I don't care. Otherwise they were just going to pitch them
so instead of buying a car you're going to build it.... 'one piece at a time' :rofl:
 

More miles and years than I care to admit.... Small block mopars get Champions. Z-E-R-O issues"
"12" series is my usual go-to
RN12YC or RC12YC - especially if you have the cheap headers.. #5 & #7 will appreciate it LOL
 
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