flathead31coupe
Well-Known Member
is there a difference in ballast if you run points or eletronic,
point/eletronic ballast?
- Thread starter flathead31coupe
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The OEM ignition module couldn't operate on 12 volts so that module used 5 wires and dual balllast resistor. Modern electronics allows the module to operate on full 12 volts so the half that ballast resistor and the 5th wire are no longer used. Aftermarket module may have only 4 contact pins. Some had the 5th pin even though not connected to anything inside, just to satisfy customer curiosity/avoid confusion. It can't hurt to have all the correct parts even if not used.
But the simple answer, same coil requires the same ballast resistor.
But the simple answer, same coil requires the same ballast resistor.
The single ballast resistor does nothing more than reduce the voltage supplied to the coil during run so coil doesn't overheat. My memory sux but I think most typical is a 1.5 ohm @ 68 degrees resistor and approx' 9.5 volts to coil. Resistance value and voltage pass will change some as this resistor does get very hot. Anyway...
Same coil, same ballast resistor. E-coil that operates on continuous 12 volts, no resistor required.
Same coil, same ballast resistor. E-coil that operates on continuous 12 volts, no resistor required.
The pertronix a friend of mine is using replaced the points, but nothing else was changed. It isn't electronic ignition, simply replaced the points. I have a dual point distributor, and looked at it, but haven't made a decision
He has a RR and told me his car ran better and actually was getting better fuel economy. Just a thought
He has the ballast resistor. Everything looks stock unless you take the distributor cap off
He has a RR and told me his car ran better and actually was getting better fuel economy. Just a thought
He has the ballast resistor. Everything looks stock unless you take the distributor cap off
Did you use the completed system, or just replace the points. That is what I have considering. That is what my friend did
One more type... OEM coil was not designed to receive 12 volts full time. It gets 12 volts on one wire during start, lesser volts from another wire routed through a ballast resistor in run.
When a OEM coil overheats it causes stumble and shut down. Worst case scenario , it leaks a oily mess and/or becomes a fire hazard. Good luck to all
Just points.
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Depends on the Pertronix used! Follow their recommendations!
I run the III and requires a specific coil and bypass on the ballast. Do not miss the recommendation on plug wires as well!! I had solid core Taylor's from the 80's that gave me a big issue! You might have to run suppressor style wires as well!!
Best ignition I have used, even over the Chysler Gold previously! Car starts and consistently runs better than ever!
I run the III and requires a specific coil and bypass on the ballast. Do not miss the recommendation on plug wires as well!! I had solid core Taylor's from the 80's that gave me a big issue! You might have to run suppressor style wires as well!!
Best ignition I have used, even over the Chysler Gold previously! Car starts and consistently runs better than ever!
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