Poly Locs or Mag Mounts?

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straightlinespeed

straightlinespeed

Sometimes I pretend to be normal
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I installed the larger PST 1.03" torsion bars last summer and I have some rattling from the header on the bar. I installed a torque strap which helped, but I still get some rattle. I was thinking of ditching the stock rubber mounts and either installing the Mag Mounts from Mancini's or the Poly Locs. Huge difference in price, but Im unsure how well the Mag Mounts work and if I will be happy with them.

View attachment magmount-heavy-duty-engine-mounts-10.gif

View attachment magnum-poly-loc-mounts-11.gif

Thoughts????
 
Ding the header tube - apply a little heat, and use a hammer or bar.
 
straightlinespeed said:
-- If I knew I wasnt going to wreck the headers I would, but I have a hard time doing that to a set of TTI's --
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-- I've done it to TTI's on 2 different cars - 68 Dart & now on My 69 Valiant - no problems - just be careful. -- I understand you're concern. -- It's easy for Me to say. They are not my headers.
 
RPMagoo said:
-- I've done it to TTI's on 2 different cars - 68 Dart & now on My 69 Valiant - no problems - just be careful. -- I understand you're concern. -- It's easy for Me to say. They are not my headers.
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The heat didnt hurt the finish? Are you turning the tubes cherry red? Just curious in case I decide to go that route.
 
straightlinespeed said:
-- The heat didnt hurt the finish? Are you turning the tubes cherry red? Just curious in case I decide to go that route. --
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-- Not cherry red - Actually you can ding them, a little, without heat. - In my case, I was more concerned with not burning a hole, than hurting the finish. It did mess up the finish a little. -- On the Dart the T-Bars hit, and on the Valiant, it was the drag link connector. -- The picture is the Valiant. I don't have one for the Dart.
 

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Wrap the torsion bar with header wrap just in that area. Had the same problem with 1.03 bars and dougs headers in 67 barracuda.
 
Dave1967 said:
-- Wrap the torsion bar with header wrap just in that area. Had the same problem with 1.03 bars and dougs headers in 67 barracuda. --
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-- A good idea on the T-Bar. On My valiant, the movement of the steering mechanism would tare it loose.
 
If you want no movement then you might as well go solid. I installed the poly locks on just the drivers side and now I can feel all kinds of vibration. I also know someone who went with the mag mount and said it was the same way. I don't notice it anymore but when I first installed them I was surprised. Have you tried shimming the mounts? If you just shim one side it can move the engine over just enough to get the clearance you need.
 
When you get to shimming, you will need to loosen all the bolts on both sides. I found, that by jacking on the oilpan I could actually raise one side while simultaneously lowering the otherside, kinda spinning the motor around it's crank axis. Then some shims. Then tighten it up before lowering the jack.
The carb ended up a hair off kilter, but that was the least of it's worries.
 
I just got cheap replacement motor mounts and drilled the driver side and taped it for something like 5/16" x 20 flathead bolt. Has been working great for the last 12 years and I run a 4,400 stall with drag radials!
 
Just my 2 cents, Maybe replace your trans mount first, there cheap. I found my old mount had sagged just a bit to one side. When I compared it to the new one there was a small height difference as well from the old rubber breaking down.
 
AJ/FormS said:
When you get to shimming, you will need to loosen all the bolts on both sides. I found, that by jacking on the oilpan I could actually raise one side while simultaneously lowering the otherside, kinda spinning the motor around it's crank axis. Then some shims. Then tighten it up before lowering the jack.
The carb ended up a hair off kilter, but that was the least of it's worries.
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If I decide to try to shim the engine this is what Im thinking of for shims.. This would work I assume?

View attachment SHIM STOCK SETS.jpg

EL5DEMON340 said:
I just got cheap replacement motor mounts and drilled the driver side and taped it for something like 5/16" x 20 flathead bolt. Has been working great for the last 12 years and I run a 4,400 stall with drag radials!
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I've heard of doing this, I was just unsure of how well it would work. I guess essentially it would be the same thing. I have a spare set of mounts that I could experiment with.

340doc said:
Just my 2 cents, Maybe replace your trans mount first, there cheap. I found my old mount had sagged just a bit to one side. When I compared it to the new one there was a small height difference as well from the old rubber breaking down.
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I've already thought about this. Im looking at changing it to the poly mounts. Im pretty sure the rubber on mine is shot.
 
Flat washers with a slot cut in them will do the same thing a lot cheaper. Loosen the bottom nut that goes through the K member, lift the engine gently by the pan and slip in a washer or two.
 
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