Poly Offset Upper Control Arm Bushings

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from Autox on another thread

There's a company called Pedders in Australia that sells offset polys. Especially factoring in shipping to U.S.A. They are very expensive for what they are. Might as well buy tubular A-arm with pre installed polys and UBJ's for that price.

Plus there's more geometry binding when running poly offsets. Each bushing is a plain bearing that rotates on only on one axis. With mopar upper control arms, the front and rear bushings are adjusted individually. Different than a GM or Mustang with a straight dogbone that is shimmed for adjustment.

Therefore you can't put an imaginary straight rod through the front and rear upper control arm bushings in a Mopar after you adjust them. The front and rear bushings will be on a slightly different axis. With offset bushing there is an even greater difference of axis.

With rubber bushings are more compliant to make up for the difference of axis.

Just run the Moog rubber offsets.

If all rubber bushings only last ONE year in AZ the dealers would be swamped with warranty work. I figure that is an exaggeration. Rubber products might not last as long in AZ. But they don't spontaneously combust.
 
What are you doing that you need offsets? A lot of times you can put the car on a frame machine and see where the frame rails have "leaned in" at the top. That will drop caster and camber like a rock. Nine time out ten if the frame rails are in spec, you can get a decent amount of caster in them with the standard bushings.
 
You know, I just thought of something. It's a bushing. Get some aluminum stock and buy some Moog offset bushings. Turn you some down in aluminum in a lathe. Drill a hole and tap them for grease fittings. Done deal Lucille. How hard can it be?
 
RustyRatRod said:
You know, I just thought of something. It's a bushing. Get some aluminum stock and buy some Moog offset bushings. Turn you some down in aluminum in a lathe. Drill a hole and tap them for grease fittings. Done deal Lucille. How hard can it be?
Click to expand...

That will make them into plain bearings/solid bushings...

But that will bind when the A-arm is moved up and down after you adjust the front and rear cam eccentrics in/out and up/down. If the inside holes are kept on the same axis, there will not be any binding. But that will only happen if the front and rear cam eccentrics are rotated exactly the same. And that will only allow caster adjustment.
 
I understand what you're saying, but I am talking about using a sleeve of maybe bronze to slip inside the aluminum so the bushing can ride on it. Kept greased, it should hold up.
 
autoxcuda said:
That will make them into plain bearings/solid bushings...

But that will bind when the A-arm is moved up and down after you adjust the front and rear cam eccentrics in/out and up/down. If the inside holes are kept on the same axis, there will not be any binding. But that will only happen if the front and rear cam eccentrics are rotated exactly the same. And that will only allow caster adjustment.
Click to expand...

im going tube and getting the benefit of caster... firm feel for the uppers the way to go?
 
This would be good. heh

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UEKYJ198RA"]Magnum Force Modular Transformer Mopar Suspension - YouTube[/ame]
 
understand what you're saying, but I am talking about using a sleeve of maybe bronze to slip inside the aluminum so the bushing can ride on it. Kept greased, it should hold up.Global West,Del-a -lums. Full billet bushing,Teflon inner sleeve. Check it out.

__________________
 
805moparkid said:
Therefore you can't put an imaginary straight rod through the front and rear upper control arm bushings in a Mopar after you adjust them. The front and rear bushings will be on a slightly different axis. With offset bushing there is an even greater difference of axis.
Click to expand...

THAT is exactly why I used rubber in the top, but not offsets.
I got enough caster with the factory rubber.
 
TrailBeast said:
THAT is exactly why I used rubber in the top, but not offsets.
I got enough caster with the factory rubber.
Click to expand...

im going with big bars, bilstiens, 255/50-16's so i want it to track really well, also help get some feel in the steering... after i get the suspension dialed i will adjust the PS pressure
 
805moparkid said:
im going with big bars, bilstiens, 255/50-16's so i want it to track really well, also help get some feel in the steering... after i get the suspension dialed i will adjust the PS pressure
Click to expand...

I'm more after the daily drivability and reliability.
Not saying yours would be less so, just that it would be overkill for my car I think.
I may very well "pump it down" on the power steering though, and have been considering it for awhile now but I have other priorities with it right now.
Nothing is wrong really, just details.
 
TrailBeast said:
I'm more after the daily drivability and reliability.
Not saying yours would be less so, just that it would be overkill for my car I think.
I may very well "pump it down" on the power steering though, and have been considering it for awhile now but I have other priorities with it right now.
Nothing is wrong really, just details.
Click to expand...

exactly on the PS... everytime you change something it changes how it feels so its dead last!
 
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