POR15, undercoat, or sprayon bedliner?

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Gutted my interior, ground down the one rusty area to bare metal and then coated the entire interior with POR15. Worked like a charm, and the sound deadening material I put down (B-Quiet) stuck to it w/o any issues.
Also applied it to the roof after the vinyl top was removed and applied primer over it before the new vinyl top was put on. Part of that project was to replace the headliner, and once it was removed we POR15'ed the underside of the roof so the metal is now sandwiched between two layers of POR15.
 

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Where did you get that BQUIET. Id like to check on that . I priced FATMAT and had sticker shock.Your car is looking really good!!
 
dustoff440 said:
This discussion is exactly why I spent two years looking for a rust free car from out west. I found the Dart in Reno and it had spent it's entire life in Nevada and SOCAL and also had a good factory undercoat which has gone a long way in preserving the car.

I had previously restored a Duster that spent it's life in the southeast and had rust. I made heavy use of POR on the areas that had rust. Those surface areas that I took back to bare, non rusted metal held up well. The areas that I didn't want to have to cut out and replace I went down to the bare metal as best as I could and slapped on the POR.I now know that I should not have taken it down to bare metal but painted right over the rust. I will say that it is very nasty to work and anything it touches you might as well plan on throwing away. Sure enough about 5 years later the rust was back. Part of it could be that I live in FL in Lake county FL which has fairly heavy rainfall and the car was not garaged or kept dry.

If you don't drive your car in the rain and keep it in a climate controlled garage or shop you probably have a far better chance of products like POR holding up for a lot longer than they did for me. I havent had any experience with the RHINO product but will say that a neighbor did his pick up bed with it, it's about a 1/4 inch thick and it is holding up very well after 8 years.

Right now the Dart is a fair weather car only and stays in the garage with a good cover on it. Ive spent so much money on it that I will probably wind up being buried in it. LOL
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Thats the same as I did bought a rust free California car to restore as I live in the eastern rust belt its rare here to see a car here over 10 years old that hasent disinegrated
 
I can't wait to try the Eastwood product. It's true that the POR hardens really fast. I haven't figured out a way yet to get it to stay good. In my experience, once that can is open, either use the whole thing or throw it away. Not very cost-effective that way. I found it really easy to cover though, and streak-free.

As for that peeling situation, I wonder how they prepped it. You don't have to paint over rust, if you follow their directions to paint over steel (though it is supposed to adhere to rust the best, chemically). Still, it will be interesting to see how my underbody holds up over time. I'm not too worried about it, but if it does peel, I'll just use a different product.
 
340 Dart Power, that's a nice lookin car you got. Looks like you did some fine work on it, too.
 
I must have done it backwards as I painted the outside underfloor with POR15 and left the interior floor painted with its original color then put down Dynamat 6211, then a aluminum jute then the carpeting. I guess I wasn't quite as smart but after 25 years, the underside still looks new and the topside floor has the factory finish from the firewall right into the trunk
 
This is just a little blurb from a Porsche site about POR-15. Despite what the company claims, I would never paint or apply any product directly over rust. It's not good to apply directly to smooth "fresh" metal, but properly prepped sandblasted metal it should adhere well to. If you're just going to clean up the metal and apply it, it probably won't adhere very well:

"Bud Osbourne: You must eliminate the rust, unless you want to have to deal with it, again, in the (maybe not too distant) future. A lot of what we see advertised and advocated is touted as a "rust encapsulator" / "rust converter". Even POR-15's name comes from Paint Over Rust, which is NEVER a good idea. If you read, and follow POR-15's application instructions, carefully, you will find that you must remove virtually all rust, and treat the metal with an acid solution (to destroy the remaining rust), before you can successfully apply POR-15. And, if you read the instructions and recommendations, carefully; you will note that POR-15 doesn't adhere terribly well to "clean" (smooth), un-rusted steel. Applied to clean steel, which has been sand-swept, or sand-blasted, however, POR-15 is really rugged stuff."

(From http://porsche356registry.org/resou...pair/325-rust-prevention-myths-a-reality.html )

Just a sample. As with any product, read and understand the instructions thoroughly, and never try to "cover" rust or damage.
 
on the valiant i scuffed and painted with primer black there was no rust on the aspen i scuffed and used roll on truck bedliner i love it. either way works i also used jasco rust and new metal coating.
 
My car is getting Lizard Skin on the floorboards (got a smoking deal on it), trunk floor is also getting Lizard Skin, I think, but wheel tubs are getting undercoated. I used spray in bed liner in one of my truck projects, did nothing for heat but it sure did quiet down the inside of the truck.....best part was a friend was just getting started in his business so it was free.....
 
StrokerScamp said:
340 Dart Power, that's a nice lookin car you got. Looks like you did some fine work on it, too.
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Thanks, Stroker. Some things I've been able to do, but the major repairs I've had to have my resto shop (Ross' Restorations, Thompsons Station, TN.) do since I have neither the skills nor tools to do them myself.

BTW, the engine is about to be pulled and rebuilt, so I'll be posting a thread about it.
 
inkjunkie said:
My car is getting Lizard Skin on the floorboards (got a smoking deal on it), trunk floor is also getting Lizard Skin, I think, but wheel tubs are getting undercoated. I used spray in bed liner in one of my truck projects, did nothing for heat but it sure did quiet down the inside of the truck.....best part was a friend was just getting started in his business so it was free.....
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I saw that stuff on Gearz. I had forgot about it til you mentioned it. Looked like some good stuff.
 
I used UPOL raptor (bedliner) on my dart my thought is if i am building a driver car that i am keeping i want it to be as rock and chip resistant as possible. thats not to say some people wont cover up damage but when i bought the car it was undercoated sooo well we didnt see that floor pans were Laid on top of the rust hole from the originals
 
inkjunkie said:
My car is getting Lizard Skin on the floorboards (got a smoking deal on it), trunk floor is also getting Lizard Skin, I think, but wheel tubs are getting undercoated. I used spray in bed liner in one of my truck projects, did nothing for heat but it sure did quiet down the inside of the truck.....best part was a friend was just getting started in his business so it was free.....
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free for now, will cost you tenfold later
 
rj72cda said:
I used UPOL raptor (bedliner) on my dart my thought is if i am building a driver car that i am keeping i want it to be as rock and chip resistant as possible. thats not to say some people wont cover up damage but when i bought the car it was undercoated sooo well we didnt see that floor pans were Laid on top of the rust hole from the originals
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thank you...." cobbler's, butcher's, and hack's"
 
That's why documentation is so critical no matter how you do it. And why I'd rather buy a car that's all original if what has been done is not documented, as you just never know what someone has tried to cover up with undercoating. It's not the specific product that's usually the issue...it's the people using it and the lack of documentation.
 
what it amounts to from what i have read is no one here can say their car has gone through a proper restoration if that were the case it would be like factory, with the use of todays advanced urethane coatings
 
BlueSwinger said:
That's why documentation is so critical no matter how you do it. And why I'd rather buy a car that's all original if what has been done is not documented, as you just never know what someone has tried to cover up with undercoating. It's not the specific product that's usually the issue...it's the people using it and the lack of documentation.
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again there you go. thank you very much
 
rapidtransitric said:
again there you go. thank you very much
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Right, exactly, it's what I've said from my first post. IF it has not been documented. If it has been, I have no problem with buying a car using these products. IF it's been documented. If not, no. I also mentioned that none of this is appropriate for a concours restoration.
 
BlueSwinger said:
Right, exactly, it's what I've said from my first post. IF it has not been documented. If it has been, I have no problem with buying a car using these products. IF it's been documented. If not, no. I also mentioned that none of this is appropriate for a concours restoration.
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what part of wisconsin?
 
I have heard from a really meticulous painter / hotrod fabricator friend, that por 15 tends to bond poorly to sand blasted metal and he does not use it but rather uses Spies Hecker epoxy / bare metal primer. I have seen Spies Hecker epoxy primer painted on the inside of engine blocks and remain bonded for years. His co-worker has used por-15 several times and the feedback is that it appears to bond long term - better to very coarsely ground or scratched metal rather than smooth sand blasted metal.

I cant understand why it would not bond great, as long as quality prep work and metal etch is performed to the base material prior to application.

It appears that both the eastwood product and por15 are catalytic hardening by the moisture in the air. That and the other information and reviews I have seen about both, make me think they are practically the same product.

I dont know what to use on my sandblasted metal. Probably an epoxy type etching bare metal primer like fellers have:

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Product Info/Epoxy Primer.htm

I just want the hardest most bonded base I can get.
 
well the epoxy primer is what the industry has to useto maintain the manufacturer coating warranty on new vehicles. when they are repaired to pre collision status years ago we stripped a car to bare metal an epoxy primed it. a personal car. the shop got busy and had to put the car out side for paying jobs. it sat outside through the entire winter and the springs rainy season before we could get back to it. when we brought it in a dried it off the epoxy had accomplished what it was supposed to. there was no rust on the car at all
 
After asking 67Dart440GT more specifically about what he did, I think I'm going to to with the epoxy primer on the rest of what I have to do as well, rather than just the straight product on top of metal. With the Eastwood product on top of that (on areas that will be hidden anyway).

This is a good thread, lots of good ideas & thoughts here.
 
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