POR15, undercoat, or sprayon bedliner?

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I used undercoat with the idea that it would deaden sound as well. I also used a rust inhibiter under that.
 
Por15 is good, and the coverage is amazing, but its damn near impossible to put paint on top if you choose to later on.
 
i use the truck brush on stuff. i bought a gallon of it. i did the floor in the black duster i had, and it turned out great, and i painted over it, and it did not peel.

i paid 60 bucks for a gallon, and i think i could do 10 floorpans with it nicely
 
I will be using POR. If the floor rusts out under it, it will still hold me up. :) The real reason it some of my floor is a little thin from a few leaky spots. This will add strength.
 
The floor on my 64 was in great shape so I painted POR 15 on with a brush it flows out nice and looks like you sprayed it on. I cleaned out and sprayed inside the cowl area where I couldent acess with a brush and I dont like spraying it you for shure have to wear a resperator its nasty to spray but its the only way that I could get it in there using a undercoat gun I covered the inlet area on the top of the cowl and sprayed in the removalable plug holes under the hood and in the air outlets inside the car making shure to move the gun around a lot to get all inside areas covered some was running out the drains on both sides so I think that its covered fairly well as I know this was an aera that rusted out on some cars. I have used POR 15 before and I like it I just hung up and painted my front and rear inner fender shields with it now Im ready to install them as soon as the vertical rubber seals come in.

I added a picture of a factory un painted cowl the POR-15 worked well for this area
 

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POR15 is a cast-iron Bee-Eye-Itch to prep and apply for a ton of reasons. That being said, once it is properly applied it takes an anti-tank missle to get though it.

-LY
 
POR-15, but I think I'm going to try the Eastwood Encapsulator paint because several people now have told me they like it better than the POR-15. I hope the lid is easier to open than the POR-15 one!

You can paint over POR-15, just read the data sheet, follow the directions and it's not an issue.

http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/POR15ApplicationInfo.pdf

Read the tip sheets too. Basically, just read about how to do it like with anything else. (all at the below link)

http://www.por15.com/quickindex.asp
 
i would not use por 15 and linex/rhino liner products ect. all they do is hide the problem. hacks, butchers, and cobblers use this method to hide rust , poor quality and sub-standard repairs. i wouldn't by a car with these materials applied to them. it's obvious that someone is trying to deceive someone else.
 
rapidtransitric said:
i would not use por 15 and linex/rhino liner products ect. all they do is hide the problem. hacks, butchers, and cobblers use this method to hide rust , poor quality and sub-standard repairs. i wouldn't by a car with these materials applied to them. it's obvious that someone is trying to deceive someone else.
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Not if you remove the problem then take good photos to show what was under there (documentation is key). The point of products like those is to preserve, so the same issues don't happen again. Today, we have better products than what the factory used to prevent rust. Nothing at all wrong with using modern technology (unless it's a concours restoration of course) to ensure that our cars last another 40+ years, especially if they are driven. Yes, people sometimes use them to hide and deceive, but that is not proper use of the product. You can misuse any product.
 
BlueSwinger said:
Not if you remove the problem then take good photos to show what was under there. The point of products like those is to preserve, so the same issues don't happen again. Better products than what the factory used to prevent rust. Yes, people sometimes use them to hide and deceive, but that is not proper use of the product.
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that maybe true, but one's lack of patience and or skill's usually overide quality and doing things right. if it wasn't acid dipped or media blasted cut out and replaced and e-coated it probably didn't do it any good slopping por 15 over a scuffed up or wire wheeled floor did not take care of the rust, it still continues to grow underneath and it will find it' way.i've been restoring cars for years and have been presented many different option's and products that will take care of rust . but it still comes down to remove the cancer you can't put a band aid on it and say it's gone
 
rapidtransitric said:
that maybe true, but one's lack of patience and or skill's usually overide quality and doing things right. if it wasn't acid dipped or media blasted cut out and replaced and e-coated it probably didn't do it any good slopping por 15 over a scuffed up or wire wheeled floor did not take care of the rust, it still continues to grow underneath and it will find it' way.i've been restoring cars for years and have been presented many different option's and products that will take care of rust . but it still comes down to remove the cancer you can't put a band aid on it and say it's gone
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That's exactly what I said. Remove the problem, and document that fact. These products are to protect the good... that's the proper use of the products in a restoration: preservation. There is no issue with using these products if used for that purpose.
 
The problem has been removed and replaced with fresh metal.

Rust needs air exposure to continue. POR15 is not porous. That is why nothing will stick to it. Paint is porous and that is why rust will continue under the paint.

My debate has been whether to use POR15 on the inside or just use undercoat or spray on liner. Neither will let air/moisture through.

I like the spray on liner because is is easier to apply and acts as a sound deader. Plus it looks nice and isnt sticky like undercoat when it gets hot.
The POR15 would be hard to get inside the doors, etc without a mess occurring.

The bottom of the car will definitely get undercoated but I am talking about the topside of the pans and trunk.
 
yes you did say "remove the problem". so we agree on that. this is the point i am trying to get across.
"that maybe true, but one's lack of patience and or skill's usually overide quality and doing things right" it is the nature of people to do things halfway and assume it to be good enough.
 
franktiregod said:
POR15 is not porous. That is why nothing will stick to it.
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Right, exactly. Which is also why you have to follow specific methods to top coat it.

Sounds like you have a good handle on things. Not sure there is really a wrong answer here. You've brought up some good advantages/disadvantages of the products. Each has their place.
 
rapidtransitric said:
yes you did say "remove the problem". so we agree on that. this is the point i am trying to get across.
"that maybe true, but one's lack of patience and or skill's usually overide quality and doing things right" it is the nature of people to do things halfway and assume it to be good enough.
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I know, we agree. Someone would have to be a hack to think otherwise. There's a lot of hacks, to be sure. Then, it just becomes an issue of what technology to use to preserve.
 
rapidtransitric said:
yes you did say "remove the problem". so we agree on that. this is the point i am trying to get across.
"that maybe true, but one's lack of patience and or skill's usually overide quality and doing things right" it is the nature of people to do things halfway and assume it to be good enough.
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Agreed.

Especially if they plan to sell or trade the car in the future. I cant stand people who do that. it is like the people who prime the car then put it up for sale. I dont want something hidden under primer. I would rather know what I am starting with.

As far this car. It is my baby and will never be for sale as long as I am alive.
If you see a for sale sign on my Valiant, you know it has been stolen or I am dead. LOL
 
the only way rust would continue or begin under paint is if the panel was diseased, or moisture was trapped under the paint, and the same with apllying any other top coat. if a car wasn't originally rust inhibited or under coated before it left the manufacturer it really doesn't help it doing it down the road after its been exposed to the elements. there is bound to be something trapped in the seams by now.
 
I stand corrected, the guy I bought the por from told me you cant paint over top, Blueswinger is right, as well if you correct the issue prior to painting, coating etc, there is no reason why POR wouldnt work for you. As I mentioned, the coverage is amazing. I painted(brush on) my 340 kmember and I used approx 2 tablespoons and it came out without a single brush stroke.
 
sounds like we are on the same page if the metal was prepared properly it is you preference of what your application would be to presreve that.

and franktiregod a car in primer is another evil for sure primer is pores. it is noyhing but a spunge it will absorb all the moisture in the world and as so many of us have seen the rust will then bleed through
 
I agree with a lot that is said above. POR stands for Paint Over Rust correct? When you use a product like that it specifically states NOT to clean the area to bare steel with media or any other abrasive. Personally that isn't a proper method of rust removal or corrosion protection. I have also used POR-15 and personally thought it was the worst product I have ever used. I wasn't using it on a rusted area just coating the back side of some fenders. It brushed like an oil based paint that left massive streaks and was VERY hard to cover, then no matter what type of storage method I tried, the cans got rock hard and 50% of the product was thrown in the garbage.

In my personal opinion these products would be good for the bottom side of a car, NOT rusted, for a nice finish if undercoating isn't wanted. I used the Eastwood stuff on the bottom of my car and it turned out nice. I would never use POR-15 again.

Here is an example of poor prep. When I got my dart someone had used POR-15 over bare steel, it was peeling on every inch of what they applied it to, and after hours of sandblasting to remove it, I applied the proper coatings to make it last. You can't just slap something over rust and think its going to "lock" it out. It needs to be repaired or replaced.
 

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franktiregod said:
Agreed.

Especially if they plan to sell or trade the car in the future. I cant stand people who do that. it is like the people who prime the car then put it up for sale. I dont want something hidden under primer. I would rather know what I am starting with.

As far this car. It is my baby and will never be for sale as long as I am alive.
If you see a for sale sign on my Valiant, you know it has been stolen or I am dead. LOL
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67Dart440GT said:
I agree with a lot that is said above. POR stands for Paint Over Rust correct? When you use a product like that it specifically states NOT to clean the area to bare steel with media or any other abrasive. Personally that isn't a proper method of rust removal or corrosion protection. I have also used POR-15 and personally thought it was the worst product I have ever used. I wasn't using it on a rusted area just coating the back side of some fenders. It brushed like an oil based paint that left massive streaks and was VERY hard to cover, then no matter what type of storage method I tried, the cans got rock hard and 50% of the product was thrown in the garbage.

In my personal opinion these products would be good for the bottom side of a car, NOT rusted, for a nice finish if undercoating isn't wanted. I used the Eastwood stuff on the bottom of my car and it turned out nice. I would never use POR-15 again.

Here is an example of poor prep. When I got my dart someone had used POR-15 over bare steel, it was peeling on every inch of what they applied it to, and after hours of sandblasting to remove it, I applied the proper coatings to make it last. You can't just slap something over rust and think its going to "lock" it out. It needs to be repaired or replaced.
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thanks for jumping in
 
This discussion is exactly why I spent two years looking for a rust free car from out west. I found the Dart in Reno and it had spent it's entire life in Nevada and SOCAL and also had a good factory undercoat which has gone a long way in preserving the car.

I had previously restored a Duster that spent it's life in the southeast and had rust. I made heavy use of POR on the areas that had rust. Those surface areas that I took back to bare, non rusted metal held up well. The areas that I didn't want to have to cut out and replace I went down to the bare metal as best as I could and slapped on the POR.I now know that I should not have taken it down to bare metal but painted right over the rust. I will say that it is very nasty to work and anything it touches you might as well plan on throwing away. Sure enough about 5 years later the rust was back. Part of it could be that I live in FL in Lake county FL which has fairly heavy rainfall and the car was not garaged or kept dry.

If you don't drive your car in the rain and keep it in a climate controlled garage or shop you probably have a far better chance of products like POR holding up for a lot longer than they did for me. I havent had any experience with the RHINO product but will say that a neighbor did his pick up bed with it, it's about a 1/4 inch thick and it is holding up very well after 8 years.

Right now the Dart is a fair weather car only and stays in the garage with a good cover on it. Ive spent so much money on it that I will probably wind up being buried in it. LOL
 
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