Positive camber on rear wheels after installing spring relo kit and SS springs

[72Duster440]

Take a level and put it on the wheel to see if it is vertical. If it doesn't fit, cut a 2x4 to the diameter of your wheel, put it against the wheel and your level on that to check if it's vertical. If its not, your housing is bent, that is the only way to have camber on a solid axle.

 

[Lonewolf3165]

Good luck and launch hard!

 

[cannucky]

P4529514 is the Mopar Performance part# for the rear shock Mopar sells for use with the SS springs , call your local Dealership parts counter and feed them that number the price might surprise you , beyond that I have no clue about interchanging to third party parts . The kit you posted for 2800lb cars is not the correct spring for your car , 002/003 SS Springs are for 3000-3200 lb cars which is what you have .The 2800 lb springs will sag and go soft on you in no time , it's another of the wonderful things the local Ahat Mopar Expert put on my car when He did the resto , I still have the pair of them sitting in the corner of my garage somewhere .

 

[mguner]

What clearance do you have between the tires and the inner wheel well? (I ask again in a different way)

 

[rkh17]

It doesn't say you changed shocks which is required with the ss springs , hard to tell by the photos but the passenger side should be higher than the drivers and at rest the passenger side wheel should be 1/2 inch forward of the drivers side , it's referred to as thrust angle in the books and the increased arc of tge passenger spring causes it . under launch load the spring compresses farther and the wheel mives back into line creating a straight launch.

Hey Cannucky,

Just wanted to revisit you on this point. So with the 1/2 difference between left and right at rest, then straight at launch / under load... what forces should I feel on the car when I unload it after crossing the finish line.. I'm guessing it would introduce a thrust angle and I would feel some rear steer at that point? I'm feeling a pull (push?) to the right on deceleration with this setup. Note: this is BEFORE braking... Just want to make sure what I'm feeling on the car is what's supposed to be happening...

Thanks,
-Rob

 

[67Dart273]

FYI - I'm talking about just the rear wheels... and yes sorry I meant Camber. Seeing positive camber. Corrected the title accordingly.

-R

You are mistaken. CAMBER is the "tilt" in/ out of the top of the tires. You cannot change camber on a solid rear axle unless you BEND the housing.

 

[rkh17]

You are mistaken. CAMBER is the "tilt" in/ out of the top of the tires. You cannot change camber on a solid rear axle unless you BEND the housing.

Yeah that's the old part of the thread. We've covered all that. New post in the thread is just related to the comment about the 1/2" difference in the position of the rear wheels/tires due to the superstock springs... Any thoughts on that?

 

[cannucky]

It stands to reason thats what you would feel , unfortunately in my case the tubes in my housing are so out of line I still have drivers side toe in at rest so I really don't get that push during decel. When I break the tires going into second I do get a little shimmy back there as the rear end unloads and resets repeatedly until the tires get hooked back in but nothing too crazy .

 

[Bozwel]

axle casings bend very easy. I used to tweak them all the time on circuit race cars.

there are two methods. one is mig weld a bead around half the tube, the other is with oxy-acetylene. run the torch around half the tube getting a cherry red bead and allow to fully cool. the axle will move in the direction of the heat once cooled. for example, heating the front half of the tube will give toe in. heating the upper half of the tube will give negative camber. with the heat starting from the rear top round to the lower front will give some negative camber and toe in.

this method could also be used to straighten an axle for zero camber and zero toe.

putting a strap on the wheels to assist pulling the axle helps.

but if putting some negative camber in or some toe in into the axle it will wear and put strain on the half shafts. race cars normally have the shafts changed quite regularly so it isn't too much of an issue. used to go 1/2 degree negative camber and 1/8th toe in with the heat as close to the inner ends as possible..