Power to manual column modification

-
N

Nelson7604

Active Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
40
Reaction score
0
Location
Beaumont, CA
I am converting my 72 Dart from power to manual steering. I understand I can buy an adapter to fit the shorter column. I heard that the collapsible shaft can be pulled out enough to avoid using the adapter. I'm not sure if this method will work or if it is recommended. Any information will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
Seems to me many guys pucker up when you mention this.
 
These cars are not safe like a modern car anywhere else anyway. The older cars don't even have the collapsing tubes but it doesn't keep people from enjoying them.
If you are truly worried about being impaled by the steering shaft I guess you wouldn't have to drive the car. You could just stand back and look at it and feel safe. LOL.
I'd shear the nylon pin and not loose a minutes sleep over it. Chances are very good it won't be the steering shaft you are working on that takes you out of this world. As long as you don't weld the telescoping shafts together it can still collapse.
I've had cars that had been sheared long before I got the car and didn't even know it till I took the column apart. Ive never been the accident prone sort anyway. That how I see it anyway. Others opinion's may and probably will differ.
 
ssba said:
These cars are not safe like a modern car anywhere else anyway. The older cars don't even have the collapsing tubes but it doesn't keep people from enjoying them.
If you are truly worried about being impaled by the steering shaft I guess you wouldn't have to drive the car. You could just stand back and look at it and feel safe. LOL.
I'd shear the nylon pin and not loose a minutes sleep over it. Chances are very good it won't be the steering shaft you are working on that takes you out of this world. As long as you don't weld the telescoping shafts together it can still collapse.
I've had cars that had been sheared long before I got the car and didn't even know it till I took the column apart. Ive never been the accident prone sort anyway. That how I see it anyway. Others opinion's may and probably will differ.
Click to expand...

I tend to agree "except."

I have no idea how far you can pull the thing apart and still be "safe."

I also have no idea, since they are essentially thin stamped steel tubes, how strong the rotational joint is after you break the bond with the plastic.
 
I'm not sure how far the 2 shaft parts overlap. Going from manual to power steering gear, defeating the shear pin and increasing that overlap is one thing. Reducing that overlap approx' 3 inches is another. I can't say from experience that the overlapping union will wear and/or cause a problem. I just wouldn't go that route.
 
I had a steering shaft that had busted shear pins. I could collapse and expand the shaft. I could not separate the shaft though, even though I was trying to pull as hard as I could. On the particular shaft I had I would say I could only slide it about a inch past the shear pins. Although it would collapse quite a ways past the pins

If it were me, I would just buy the adapter. You can even post in the want ads perhaps someone has a used one they no longer need and you can get it cheaper.
 
All you need. :burnout:
 

Attachments

  • 312-P4510637.jpg
    10 KB · Views: 255
I believe flaming river even makes an adapter that eliminates the factory coupler and uses a small universal joint. pretty sure its pricey though
 
vitamindart said:
I believe flaming river even makes an adapter that eliminates the factory coupler and uses a small universal joint. pretty sure its pricey though
Click to expand...


Yes you are correct they do, but if I remember correctly involves some fabrication. Not a plug and play like the above adapter
 
straightlinespeed said:
Yes you are correct they do, but if I remember correctly involves some fabrication. Not a plug and play like the above adapter
Click to expand...

I have a Flaming River coupler which replaces the rag joint with a nice stainless steel u-joint. And yes, you have to cut the shaft and drill a couple holes to install it. I'll sell it to you cheap Nelson7604. It's pretty much like new. Only problem is I don't have the instructions. But I'll bet you can get them from Flaming River somehow.
 
Back in the day we used to take a "parts" steering column and cut off the bottom of the shaft up where it is hollow.

You could then take the original column and cut the solid shaft at the bottom just above the post that fits into the coupler. Without the post, the hollow piece of your parts column would slide right over the solid part of the original power steering column.

You then measure and cut the hollow piece to make the your power steering column the exact measurement of the manual column.

Finish by welding the two pieces together and if you're good at welding, it looks like a factory column.

You have to be a GOOD welder because your LIFE depends on it, but it's a cheap easy way to do it if you are.
 
I converted from Power to manual and I measured the difference, no biggie. the shaft is a hollow double D design with plastic fingers that shear off in an accident thus allowing the shaft to move up the sleeve. The position of the shaft inside the sleeve is not critical. You'll be ok moving shaft down
 
Take the steering shaft out of the column and bust the plastic shear pin, pull the lower shaft out the desired amount (I believe it's about 3 inches) then drill though both the inner and outer shafts and re pin it with a small brass machine screw and nut. Now the shafts will be secured to each other and still be able to collapse if needed.
 
Ok, here's the skinny. I just went out to the shop and took apart a 67 column I have been meaning to convert to manual steering length.
This is a rust free column that is in perfect as manufactured condition. The nylon pins were till intact.
I can tell you with no doubt in my mind that the nylon pins are not pins at all but a spru so to speak from a bushing injection process. What look to be pins are actually the means for nylon to be injected between the telescoping tubes. These are two 3/32"holes drilled into the outer tube. The inner solid lower shaft has been under cut in a lathe to create a cavity for the injected nylon.
I will say this. It took a lot of pressure to get these apart since the bushing is moulded to the parts and the shafts have a interference fit. I could see this shaft going clear thru a persons chest before it would collapse. Be glad there is a steering wheel on the end to spread out the load.
There is not a lot of extra shaft so when in the lengthend position it may only have a inch or so
of overlap between the inner shaft and outer tube. This is a pressed interference fit so it is still very solid moved to the new position and continues to act as a single piece shaft as before the modification. No worry of wobble here, it is that tight.
If I was to stretch a column in this manner where the teliscopic fit was loose for some reason I believe you could get a wobble with the decreased engagement. But that was not the case on this column.
Posted a pic to help with explanation.
Hope this takes the fear out of the process.
I would not add a coupler as shown above as it would be an extra joint and I could see that as being more likely to cause a problem than slipping the tubes.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20140718_220310_514.jpg
    16.2 KB · Views: 220
As you can see in the picture if the shaft was pulled 3"s you would have 1 3/4" of "D" shaft still in the tube. I believe the round outer tube was crimped directly to the solid "D" lower shaft in some sort of dies? as it is very very hard to make it slip. Then the nylon injected through the two 3 3/32" holes drilled in the outer tube to fill the cavities cut into the solid "D" shaft. No worries on rotational slip.
The thing was made to last 100 years. Very strong slip joint that doesn't slip easy.
 
Thanks for the quick replies! I am just looking for a temporary but safe fix. When I get the money I'll buy the correct column and throw a floor shifter in it! For now I'll pull the shaft out and hope for the best! :D Thanks again for the information.
 
Another point to consider.. For those early models without wheel lock and such there is nothing holding the shaft at the top except a snap ring above a pizzy little bearing.
The later the column the more parts there are that depend in the alignment of the shaft at the top. So...
Regardless of model, You'll need to take the entire shaft out to extend it. Afterwards you can worry about the little bearing, signal switch and all other components that may be effected.
Replacing a few of those parts will cost much more than the aftermarket adapter.
Bottom line..The aftermarket adapter is the best route.
 
RedFish said:
The aftermarket adapter is the best route.
Click to expand...

I agree it's the easiest, but I'm a cheapass and it's cheaper to rebuild my free to me 67 column, by a long shot. If the OP is planning on getting a manual column down the road, depending on when, it could be an unnecessary expense. I have the correct column, so I'm biased.
 
There are TWO differences between a power and non power column. The adapter solves both problems. Not only is the power column shorter but the coupler part that connects to the power str box is different - the spline diameter is smaller than on a manual column - it's too small to fit. The adapter makes up the missing length and has the larger diameter hole cut into the splined area. And there's no messing with the plastic pins in the shaft.
 
airgrabber said:
There are TWO differences between a power and non power column. The adapter solves both problems. Not only is the power column shorter but the coupler part that connects to the power str box is different - the spline diameter is smaller than on a manual column - it's too small to fit. The adapter makes up the missing length and has the larger diameter hole cut into the splined area. And there's no messing with the plastic pins in the shaft.
Click to expand...

Yep I forgot about the difference in the box couplings. Thanks for adding this important point.
 
I got the bigger box coupling. Does anybody know how to get the old one off? I can't find anything online. Another thing, I was trying to use the same pitman arm, but I noticed that the shaft itself is different on the manual box. It this just my imagination or do I need a new pitman arm?
 
If the nut that holds the pitman arm on is a different size, the shafts and pitman arms are different also.
 
If the nut fits both boxes and isn't requiring a 1 and 5/16 socket you have a earlier power steering gear. There are situations where a pitman arm is desired that was never produced. I'm sorry but I've gotten so burned out, older, and forgetful, that I cant keep the many changes straight in my head.
You may or may not need to change the center link and idler arm to solve the pitman arm puzzle. Good luck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top