Precision Handling

[69wacuda]

I am kind of obsessed with how one could make their A-body handle like it's on rails. If you have an autocross A-body, or you have set it up to handle. Please list your modifications. i have heard of people boxing their lower control arms, sway bars, and such. I realize handling can be improved if you spend thousands of dollars buying a set up like alterkation's, but what have you done with (mostly stock equipment.

Thanks!

 

[805moparkid]

well the biggest thing people think to do is stiffen the springs...

helps on alot on a t bar car do to there design but no!

SWAY BARS...

biggest you can get... springs and suspension is for just that, keeping the car from bottoming out on bumps...

sway bars are what are needed to keep the car level thru a turn which allows the alignment setting to stay the same...

which brings me to the next thing...

having the ability to get the alignment dead on where you need it... so adjustable uppers help ALOT! but stiffening everything also helps...

we built a pro-touring duster with a aluminum 540 hemi/6 speed manual... 255/50 on the front 295/xx on the rear... you can go around scary corners @ 80+ with out even worrying about it... SCARY...

 

[abodyjoe]

There's multiple threads here about that. Do a search. Tons of info.

 

[autoxcuda]

From summer 2010 until now:

SUSPENSION
•TORSION BARS: 1.14" 320 Lb./ft wheel rate stock .87" 109 Lb./ft, livable, pretty stiff, Hotchkis shocks were key to taming them.
•REAR SPRINGS: Hotchkis. Weigh less that stock.
•FRONT SWAY BAR: Hotchkis 1 1/4" hollow
•REAR SWAY BAR: Hotchkis adjustable ¾" dia. hollow
•SHOCKS: Hotchkis Bilstiens
•STRUT RODS: Hotchkis tubular with heim ends. Precision articulation. Can set for nice bind-free LCA up and down movement. Holds poly LCA bushing against K-frame
•A-ARMS: Hotckis Tubular. Able to dial in any caster desired.
•SUBFRAME CONNECTORS: Hotchkis
•73-76 K-member: reinforced
•STEERING STEERING GEAR: Replacement Mopar remanufactured. Large steering gear spline, crisp, firmer, but not Firm Feel
•PITMAN, IDLER, CENTERLINK: all ‘73-‘76 A-body, to accept large spline gear, Moog parts
•POWER STEERING PUMP: Saginaw with rear oriface drilled out 1/64 larger. The other Mopar pump will not keep up with rapid steering input and are generally poor.
•POWER STEERING FLUID: Justice Brothers heavy duty, don't change often, so extra cost is cheap assurance
•POWER STEERING CAP: later style multi knobbed style with rubber baffle to stop spitting up.

BRAKES
•PADS: Discontinued Mopar Police Spec Semi Metalic units ($15 swap meet score)
•DISKS: 11.75" dia junkyard single piston disks
•BRAKE LINES: braided, w/banjo on caliper end for rear caliper placement
•BRAKE FLUID: Justice Brothers High Performance Dot 4
•MASTER CYLINDER: Mopar Performance alum. 2 bolt, 1-1/32" bore, firm immediate pedal, feels great, not for your grandma. Started with manual drums. Thicker master cly adapter to adj. pedal height down. Be aware of pushrod length.
•PROPORTIONING VALVE: Willwood adjustable, had drum brakes so need some proportioning valve
•DRUMS: vented "bell or hat" drums for cooling
•REAR AXLES: 4 ½" bolt redrilled pattern

WHEELS
•15x9 4 1/4" backspace Optima Minilites (needed front fender lipping/bending) 245/50/15 BFG Comp T/A's ZR all around. (That size is totally discontinued)

INTERIOR
•STEERING WHEEL: LaCarra 15" padded leather, better grip, small dia. gives more responsive feel ($30 never installed swap meet score)
•SEATS: Used Toyota Celica GTS increased g’s so need better seats, must race car from drivers side


From 1994 to summer 2010 **OLD SETUP**:

SUSPENSION
•TORSION BARS: .99" 184 Lb./ft wheel rate stock .87" 109 Lb./ft, livable, stiff
•REAR SPRINGS: Stock for 8¾ 68 Formula S. Car seems balanced now. Might need stiffer so don't need rear sway bar. If so, will just add leaves to dial in. But soft helps planting and rear transfer. Good shocks might have to come first. Need testing to sort out.
•73-76 K-member: reinforced
•FRONT SWAY BAR: Hellwig 1 1/4" hollow
•REAR SWAY BAR: ¾" dia. Addco aftermarket ($35 used)
•SHOCKS: Front QA1 single adj ($75 used) blew out all my hand-me-down used Konis, Rears: Hand me down KYB's
•POLYGRAPHITE: sway bar, brake strut rods, lower control arms. Leaf bushings; can hear slight resonance when added to rear. Would not use LCA poly again.
•UPPER A-ARM BUSHINGS: offset, Moog prt.# 7103 installed opposite, more caster, more road feel, more high speed stability
•STEERING STEERING GEAR: Replacement Mopar remanufactured. Large steering gear spline, crisp, firmer, but not Firm Feel
•PITMAN, IDLER, CENTERLINK: all ‘73-‘76 A-body, to accept large spline gear
•POWER STEERING FLUID: Justice Brothers heavy duty, don't change often, so extra cost is cheap assurance
•POWER STEERING CAP: later style multi knobbed style with rubber baffle to stop spitting up.

BRAKES
•PADS: Discontinued Mopar Police Spec Semi Metalic units ($15 swap meet score)
•DISKS: 11.75" dia junkyard single piston disks
•BRAKE LINES: braided, w/banjo on caliper end for rear caliper placement
•BRAKE FLUID: Justice Brothers High Performance Dot 4
•MASTER CYLINDER: Mopar Performance alum. 2 bolt, 1-1/32" bore, firm immediate pedal, feels great, not for your grandma. Started with manual drums. Thicker master cly adapter to adj. pedal height down. Be aware of pushrod length.
•PROPORTIONING VALVE: Willwood adjustable, had drum brakes so need some proportioning valve
•DRUMS: vented "bell or hat" drums for cooling
•REAR AXLES: 4 ½" bolt redrilled pattern

WHEELS
•15x9 4 1/4" backspace Optima Minilites (needed front fender lipping/bending) 245/50/15 BFG Comp T/A's ZR all around. (That size is totally discontinued)

INTERIOR
•STEERING WHEEL: LaCarra 15" padded leather, better grip, small dia. gives more responsive feel ($30 never installed swap meet score)
•SEATS: Used Toyota Celica GTS increased g’s so need better seats, must race car from drivers side