Myggan
Member
Hi, im new here.
I was wondering if anybody had a wiring diagrm over the dashboard on a -65 Barracuda.
I was wondering if anybody had a wiring diagrm over the dashboard on a -65 Barracuda.
Problems with dashboard -65 Barracuda
- Thread starter Myggan
- Start date
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Myggan
Member
Im curious how the dashboard is fixed to GND... And if the voltage regulator shoud have a separate GND or if it uses the dashbosrd.
64ragtop
Well-Known Member
This may help. I hope so.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65ValiantBarracudaA.jpg
On all the early mopars I have encountered, the dash is connected to the vehicle ground by the mounting screws through the metal gauge cluster into the body sheet metal. If you want to work on the panel, you will need to attach a grounding wire from the metal gauge cluster frame to the body of the car. CAUTION!!! that's a good way to blow up components if a part with voltage on it contacts ground. Don't ask me how I came to know this! Good luck..
BC
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65ValiantBarracudaA.jpg
On all the early mopars I have encountered, the dash is connected to the vehicle ground by the mounting screws through the metal gauge cluster into the body sheet metal. If you want to work on the panel, you will need to attach a grounding wire from the metal gauge cluster frame to the body of the car. CAUTION!!! that's a good way to blow up components if a part with voltage on it contacts ground. Don't ask me how I came to know this! Good luck..
BC
That instrument housing is chassis grounded via its mounting hardware like most everything else on the car. There isn't a ground wire.
The gauge voltage limiter and the bulbs in the instrument panel need that ground.
If you remove the mounting screws and pull the panel just far enough to isolate it from chassis ground, the only bulb that will work properly is park brake indicator bulb.
The gauge voltage limiter and the bulbs in the instrument panel need that ground.
If you remove the mounting screws and pull the panel just far enough to isolate it from chassis ground, the only bulb that will work properly is park brake indicator bulb.
Myggan
Member
Ok, thanks for the help and quick response
.
Then i have to attach a wire...
.Then i have to attach a wire...
I don't know what differences there are between 65/ 66 but you can download a free 66 factory manual right here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
604
Well-Known Member
I added a ground wire from one of the ground stud screw to a screw under the dash. Seamed to help some "gremlins" go away.
Myggan
Member
Im thinking of adding a ground wire myself... But the problem seems to be in the lightswitch, im having about 4v on the instrument lights...
So do anybody know how to remove the button, is it just brute force???
Ant thanks again for the help
So do anybody know how to remove the button, is it just brute force???
Ant thanks again for the help
604
Well-Known Member
There is a little button to push on the switch body, back behind the dash. You have to hold your tung just right and stand on your head. LOL
But when you push it in you can pull the nob right out.
But when you push it in you can pull the nob right out.
Pull knob out to first position (running lights) reach behind dash and push in button on top of switch body then pull knob out. You can only push in the button with the switch in running light position.
The instrument lights run through the dimmer, does turning the light switch knob affect the voltage at the instrument lights?
The instrument lights run through the dimmer, does turning the light switch knob affect the voltage at the instrument lights?
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
An erratic dimmer control is very common. Spraying electrical "contact cleaner" on the rheostat wire usually fixes it. You can often do that with the switch in the car, at least I did so on my 84 Mercedes recently.
Myggan
Member
No, turning the dimmer does not do any difference to the voltage...
Reading betwen 4 and 0 volts att all times.
Reading betwen 4 and 0 volts att all times.
64ragtop
Well-Known Member
Myggan, does the voltage vary between 0 and 4 volts, or is it a steady reading, just different each time you read it. Your description almost sounds like you are measuring the output of the instrument cluster voltage regulator.
I've been unable to find a diagram of your dashboard circuit. The diagram I referred you to (http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65ValiantBarracudaA.jpg and its other part, http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65ValiantBarracudaB.jpg) show an orange wire coming from the fuse box to pin C of the eight pin dashboard connector. They also show a tan wire from the light switch "inst" terminal to the fuse box.
If I'm reading the drawing correctly, you should find the instrument panel lights voltage (which would be varied from 12 volts down by turning the light switch knob) at the "inst" terminal on the light switch, at both ends of the fuse that connects to the tan and orange wires and at terminal C on that eight pin connector.
Try checking voltage at the fuse panel INST fuse. This fuse is a "trick." The dimmer control receives power from the tail lamp fuse, goes through the dimmer, comes out on a tan wire, THEN goes to the inst fuse, and feeds all the "dimmer controlled" instrument lamps usually on orange wiring.
Do any of the lamps actually light?
Myggan
Member
The voltage is not stedy, i have measured it at the both the light on the instument and the shifter...
No lamps light up.
Going to try and mesasure at the fuse, to measure at the lightswitch it seems like i have to take it out.
No lamps light up.
Going to try and mesasure at the fuse, to measure at the lightswitch it seems like i have to take it out.
64ragtop
Well-Known Member
The light switch can be difficult.
Then, after you pull the knob and its shaft out, you can unscrew the not and pull the switch down and out. Have you checked all the fuses and cleaned any corrosion from the clips that hold the fuses? I have also found fuses that look good (the fusible wire inside the fuse looks OK) but the connection to the end cap of the fuse has broken.
BC
Then, after you pull the knob and its shaft out, you can unscrew the not and pull the switch down and out. Have you checked all the fuses and cleaned any corrosion from the clips that hold the fuses? I have also found fuses that look good (the fusible wire inside the fuse looks OK) but the connection to the end cap of the fuse has broken.
BC
There is only one RELIABLE way to check fuses, and that is to check the voltage on both sides UNDER LOAD
That is, example, if the tail lights don't work, turn on the park/ tail lights, and check with either a lamp or meter on BOTH sides of the fuse, CONTACTING the fuse clips (holder) NOT the fuse.
Only then do you know that power is actually getting through the fuse
Believe me, I've screwed with electronics/ electrics most of my life, and I've been fooled a few times along the way.
Also, ESPECIALLY with these old girls, getting older everyday, suspect poor connections right in the fuse panel
64ragtop
Well-Known Member
Amen, my friend, corrosion, and fuse clips getting old and losing tension are not uncommon. I've cleaned mine with VERY fine grit wet or dry sandpaper. Tension can be restored by squeezing the clips gently, by hand, with the fuse out. Don't use pliers or you'll probably break the clip. THEN you get to replace the fusebox. Don't ask me how I know this!
BC
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