ProComp/Speedmaster aluminum heads

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yellow rose said:
Trust me, I learned along time ago to cover my hind parts so guys can't do me dirty like that. I tell her everything I say on here right up front. That way I'm clean. She's already heard all that. I did that when we started dating. Saved me some really embarrassing stuff. I had friends saving up crap to tell the wife for years but I told her ahead of time.
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That's what I do....
 
318willrun said:
J par, a quick question. I believe bolting them on "as is" will net you some horsepower. But just for conversation, if you loose 1 mph and can't get past 12.7's, what would be your next plan? Hypothetical question, I know.
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Actually a very good question. I would be interested in knowing as well. No sarcasm or ribbing intended.
 
318willrun said:
J par, a quick question. I believe bolting them on "as is" will net you some horsepower. But just for conversation, if you loose 1 mph and can't get past 12.7's, what would be your next plan? Hypothetical question, I know.
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Check the air density calculator..
 
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318willrun said:
A test you can do now is pour a little rubbing alcohol (or spray carb cleaner) into the ports and see if the valves hold it. If not, you can lap the valves sometime this winter and have them ready for Spring.
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I wasn't planning on just dropping them on when the time came. I'll probably take them up to a shop just for warranty purposes and pay the 50 or $80 to just have them looked at. if they need to do a couple things for another fifty bucks or something I'm not going to get bent out but if they're talkin they need to put a few hundred dollars into them then I'm sending them back.... The paperwork says that they have to be checked out before you use them... Thye do come with a one-year warranty... Not living and dying on that but doing my part..
 
j par said:
I wasn't planning on just dropping them on when the time came. I'll probably take them up to a shop just for warranty purposes and pay the 50 or $80 to just have them looked at. if they need to do a couple things for another fifty bucks or something I'm not going to get bent out but if they're talkin they need to put a few hundred dollars into them then I'm sending them back.... The paperwork says that they have to be checked out before you use them... Thye do come with a one-year warranty... Not living and dying on that but doing my part..
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I was just thinking of it as a report card on the quality control of SM. IF somebody bolted them on, would the valves have sealed. no biggy
 
yellow rose said:
That's true. I'm actually pretty mushy anymore. Straight mush. Oatmeal type mush.
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Cream puff ? lol I think j par should bring his snowmobiles over to your place this winter. He could bring his new heads and you and him could check them out and clean them up.
Spend some quality bonding time together. lol
Think of it, j par gets stuff done and you need help and ambition. He has both.
 
fishmens67 said:
Cream puff ? lol I think j par should bring his snowmobiles over to your place this winter. He could bring his new heads and you and him could check them out and clean them up.
Spend some quality bonding time together. lol
Think of it, j par gets stuff done and you need help and ambition. He has both.
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I'm allergic to snowmobiles and snow. I break out in a cold sweat, and drink Wild Turkey straight from the bottle with both hands.

Snowmobile is a 4 letter word.
 
I better get this subject turned around off of snowmobiling (Rose's favorite subject) and back to the heads..
I guess from what I'm gathering I'm going to need new head bolts? Likely ARP. It's what I have now...

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Do you have washers for the head bolts. need washers with aluminum heads.
 
fishmens67 said:
Do you have washers for the head bolts. need washers with aluminum heads.
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I didn't know that, thank you. I seen that Speedmaster sells a stud kit for $84 plus shipping. Of course I'll get all four gasket$ and a bottle of Redline water wetter and some gallon$ of distilled water for the cooling system$.. and 7 quarts of $8 a quart oil and an oil filter.
Am I up to about $250 yet to get these put on.... NO!... I forgot I still got to take them to a shop and have them checked out before any of this LOL....:BangHead::rolleyes:
 
mopardude318 said:
Those Blue Direct Connection valve covers got me all wobbly kneed.
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Yeah when I got them I was pretty jacked up and I still think a lot of I them..
I was at the big swap meet 4 years ago and there was a Mopar guy that had them in a box in his trailer. When I seen them I didn't stop offering trade stuff till he finally relented.... I gave him a big block four-speed dust cover the previous year for some future credit. First thing I did was cash that in and I offered an over Drive for Speed and he raised an eyebrow and I said plus the Hurst shifter mechanism and then I said the linkage and the shifter and then he finally said okay okay... he said don't throw away this original box! I looked at him like his head had fallen off! I said you joking right....
 
I got the Speedmaster head stud kit when I got my heads. Is there any down side to head studs?

Cley
 
89on35s said:
I got the Speedmaster head stud kit when I got my heads. Is there any down side to head studs?

Cley
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One downside I've read about is that there can be issues getting the head on and off the studs on the driver side when the engine is in the car. May not be enough clearance to brake booster or other stuff.
 
gzig5 said:
One downside I've read about is that there can be issues getting the head on and off the studs on the driver side when the engine is in the car. May not be enough clearance to brake booster or other stuff.
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Some of the better head studs can be removed with an Allen wrench to deal with this issue. They come in very handy when things are tight.
 
The speedmaster head stub kits works fine....have a set torqued down to 110 ft lbs...you can back the studs off to get them out since there is an allen head wrench on the end of them....
 
j par said:
I better get this subject turned around off of snowmobiling (Rose's favorite subject) and back to the heads..
I guess from what I'm gathering I'm going to need new head bolts? Likely ARP. It's what I have now...

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I can't see from the pictures but I think you only need one extra long bolt per side. If you look at the top row of bolts between 1-3 and 5-7 intake ports, where the oil feed hole comes up...those bolts on OE heads has one short one. It should be the front bolt on the drivers side and the rear bolt on the passenger side. Those are shorter on OE heads but I believe the length on those heads.

I use head studs, but I have to pull the master cylinder to get the drivers side head off over the studs. My studs are probably from the late 80's or early 90's so they don't have the hex in the top of them. If you get studs with the hex in the top of them, you can just unscrew the long studs and take the head off without any hassle.
 
70aarcuda said:
The speedmaster head stub kits works fine....have a set torqued down to 110 ft lbs...you can back the studs off to get them out since there is an allen head wrench on the end of them....
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Is the only difference in that head what I posted above?? In that only 1 bolt/stud is longer on each side?
 
actually they give you an extra long stud....fits aluminum or cast iron head......so you do not have to buy separate kits ....imagine if ARP did that...
 
I used ARP bolts that where designed for edelbrock rpm heads on mine. I had read some bad reviews about speedmaster ones
 
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