Proform Adjustable Pinion Snubber

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70 Buster 340

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Are these any good for track use? The originals don't look as 'adjustable'.
What would be a reasonable distance setting to the floor as a starting point?

pro-68083_xl.jpg
 
Some folks have said they're too tall, even on their shortest setting but I suppose that all depends on how your car is setup I suppose...track use/playin' you want it just touching the floor.
 
Well I like the idea. The old style adjustable snubbers never had the right pin hole that you needed. This style that screws up and down seems like you could adjust it to where you want it.
 
Some folks have said they're too tall, even on their shortest setting but I suppose that all depends on how your car is setup I suppose...track use/playin' you want it just touching the floor.

Thanks for the reply. I was think about 1/2" or so but I'll try zero clearance at static ride height to start.
 
Well I like the idea. The old style adjustable snubbers never had the right pin hole that you needed. This style that screws up and down seems like you could adjust it to where you want it.
That's what I thought .. The originals look cool but I think these might be more tunable. The only experience I have was a poor mans short 2x4 attached to the floor .. bang ...lol.
Hey...it worked. This should be better... haha
 
I used the old Herb McCandless style that used the pin on my 71 BB Scamp. I had to because the spring wrap was so bad it dented the front of the shocks when I launched the car. And I was using 002/003 SS springs. Car hooked real hard 1.40 60 ft and ran 6.30's in the 1/8.
 
Reinforce the floor pan where the snubber hits.
 
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Reinforce the floor pan where the snubbed hits.
You know I never thought about that on my Scamp when I was racing it. Guess I got lucky. I ran 29x10.5W slicks and damn it launched hard. I had the snubber set about a 1/2" from the floor.
 
I'm on 9x28s. Looking to go to 9x30.
Just got this car, right now it's 7.30s .. on stock springs, pounded oem rubber snubber and flat air shocks, not my set-up.
Looking to improve on that ..lol
 
Mine was set at 1/2" and pounded the floor up so I had to pound it back down and weld a plate over it on the inside. It would carry the left front wheel most of the way through first gear.
 
Well I like the idea. The old style adjustable snubbers never had the right pin hole that you needed. This style that screws up and down seems like you could adjust it to where you want it.

I took and drilled more holes off to the side in between the others and got a lot more adjustments.
 
Mine was set at 1/2" and pounded the floor up so I had to pound it back down and weld a plate over it on the inside. It would carry the left front wheel most of the way through first gear.
Mine may have also. I was diligent on Maintenance on my car and inspected it regularly. But I don't think I ever thought to inspect the floor board!
 
previous own said "I tried other shocks, put those back in, the car left better"
Well that could make some sense, flat airshocks put the existing snubber closer to the floor.
 
You know I never thought about that on my Scamp when I was racing it. Guess I got lucky. I ran 29x10.5W slicks and damn it launched hard. I had the snubber set about a 1/2" from the floor.
I think the Hemi/ Dana cars have reinforcements from the factory.
 
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Use it, it is a good part. Just recheck the installed height after a few runs to be sure you have it locked down. As the 6pack man said, welding in a plate under the car where the snubbed hits is a good idea. IIRC, that was mentioned in some MP writings a while back.

Do not bother with a zero load yet. Work your way there. The 1/2 inch measurement is a great starting place.

The originals were designed with the S/S springs being used in the day. This is why there a very tall item. I have and I like the part you pictured. Super adjustable.

Are these any good for track use? The originals don't look as 'adjustable'.
What would be a reasonable distance setting to the floor as a starting point?

View attachment 1715386267
 

I found the ride quality off the track is particularly brutal when the snubber is properly adjusted. I recall there's a recommended distance from the floor with auto vs manual trans.

I wish someone would make one that was both adjustable and remotely extended and retracted from the driver's seat either mechanically or electronically.

That way it could be lowered down out of the way so that the rear suspension had more travel when you were just cruising around town for a more compliant ride and could be quickly extended up to the floor for hard acceleration.
 
@jbc426 IIRC, and it’s worth checking, a manual trans has been suggested to set at zero.

A remote controlled snubber, hummmmm, interesting....
 
@jbc426 IIRC, and it’s worth checking, a manual trans has been suggested to set at zero.

A remote controlled snubber, hummmmm, interesting....

That is what I remember, and the automatic had a 1/2" if memory serves.

I would run a remotely adjustable one instead of my slapper bars, as they make the rear slightly stiffer riding as well, but nothing like a pinion snubber flush to the floor. To me, that is not an option for my rides due to the restriction of the rear suspension's harsh street ride with a properly adjusted snubber.
 
This is a poor boy track only car so ride quality is ... second to launch quality :rolleyes:
Stick car but has 727 now.
New Airshocks going in with individual lines for tuning. I'll start with 1/2" at the ride height needed to keep the tires clear. Probably will only need about 40-50 psi.in both to start.
Thanks for the input guys!

I'm old school, love a big 70s style rake like these old ProStocks
Roy Hill 72 Duster.jpg
 
That picture would be late 1972 early 1973

I hung around some cool Speed Shops BITD but never That Cool.

Even though it wasn't all that competitive in NHRA I Loved that "Petty Built".

Talk about 'jerk the wheels'
Roy-Hill-72-duster-1.jpg
 
You can take the screw and poly pad out and insert a Ford type frame bumper. No more slamming, can barely tell it's there.
 
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