Project Track Demon - Eventually

[MrAndrewLitt]

Big update. Fuel system complete, Holly 600cfm 4 barrel rebuilt and mounted. Lokar throttle cable and kick down cable mounted and adjusted, some of the wiring cleaned up, alternator, p/s pump mounted, trans lines attached, starter mounted, new battery cables attached, and overflow bottle buttoned up.

Last major thing left is exhaust.

This Lokar cable setup is awesome! So much nicer than the factory linkage!

Current engine bay shot.

 

[MrAndrewLitt]

So I've been telling a lot of people how much I love AN fittings. This was my first experience with them and wow was making a good flare easy. Gold showed me how to do one of them and let me borrow his flaring tool. Finally, I enjoy the challenge of figuring out just where to bend the line.

Also, we did our best to put as little rubber fuel line on this car as possible. Only allow put it were flexing will occur. Note, my new sending unit has 3/8" lines so I needed to adapt that to the 5/16" line that's on the chassis. Eventually, I'll end up being all 3/8" line, but time just isn't in my favor right now.

So this is a -6 to -5 AN connector. 5/16" on the chassis and 3/8" to the tank.

Connection at the tank and a shiny new sending unit.

 

[MrAndrewLitt]

This one I'm particularly proud of. I had to go from the mechanical pump, up and around the pump, under the alternator, next to the water pump, and up and over to the carb. I only had to do it twice!

Also got my line vent line made for our converted filler neck. I'll ad some supports a little later.

 

[MrAndrewLitt]

Thanks to a Gold, my buddy Tony, and my little brother my car is this far. I couldn't be at this point without them.

 

[goldduster318]

Glad I could help.

For any of you guys who are wondering, it's a Parker Rotoflare tool. Really nice - I did a ton of flares with it for my EFI system. We also uses that pretty unique fitting to go from a flare on the fuel pump (which is a stock one) to -6 AN.

We came up with a pretty unique solution for the issue of having a biscuit mount K-frame and a Saginaw power steering pump. Hopefully Andrew will share that once we decide if just shortening it is OK or if it's better to add a piece in the middle.

Once the exhaust is there, we need to hook up the oil pressure gauge and then I think we prime the oil pump, set the distributor, and then start it up. Of course there are some other minor things to button up as well before that, but it's getting close.

 

[goldduster318]

Here's the car at Roadkill Nights last week!

 

[MrAndrewLitt]

Hey Members,

Small update. The "Krusty Demon" did its first race late last year. I picked up a tire and wheel sponsor (U-Pull and Save Auto Parts, Pontiac, MI) and boom...I was at a Detroit Region rallycross. Car needs some help (sways bars for example), but I ran pretty well in the dry and beat a few cars I had no business running with. A lot of fun, but traction was an issue!

More updates coming this spring! (Hint - I'm building a mold to make actual carbon fiber gauge panels. Drop in replacement for our existing gauge insert.)

 

[MrAndrewLitt]

Okay....I couldn't hold off too much longer. Here's the next part of the Demon that will be done. One of my "hobbies" is making composite race car parts. After seeing what was available from the aftermarket I wasn't super pleased so I started making my own mold. I wanted to make ACTUAL carbon fiber gauge panels. I found a really nice straight example on eBay and I decide to make a mold. My goal is to pull the first parts in mid-April. I have a little sanding and finish work to be done on the mold, but I'm making progress. Essentially the gauge mounting surface will be a flat panel that I can cut and trim to the gauge layout I desire.

Check back in April!

 

[MuuMuu101]

Interesting... So you use modeling clay to fill the void in the gauge cluster? I make some composite components myself.

 

[MrAndrewLitt]

Interesting... So you use modeling clay to fill the void in the gauge cluster? I make some composite components myself.

Yes, it's quite a common practice to fill areas that you don't want to get epoxy. In the mold all of those areas will actually get filled in with glass and epoxy to create a smooth surface. During the "mold making" process though I needed them plugged for the first step.

If you look at the clay around the edges you'll see that I also use it to see the edges around the flange and make a nice radius or chamfer in the mold. Also gives me a distinct line for part trimming.

Unfortunately my progess has been a little slow. I had a couple of F500 pieces I needed to fix and now I'm cleaning up that mess and making a down draft table for dust collection. Hopefully first parts will be pulled by mid April though. I'll keep everyone posted.