Pulling engine and transmission together

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sargentrs

sargentrs

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'74 Dart, 225 /6, A904. I've searched and read extensively here and at slantsix.org so I've got a rough idea. Got so many leaks it's pathetic. Need to replace tranny pan gasket, shifter shaft seal and tighten bands. While I've got the tranny out figure I might as well replace both front and rear seals. I don't think I've got enough room under there without a royal PITA. Engine leaks at oil pan (not mains that I can tell), oil pump gasket, valve cover gasket and drool tubes. Also need to replace motor mount bushings and might as well put new timing cover gasket and seals and regasket the water pump. After scoping it out for 2 days, I've about decided the easiest course of action is to pull both the engine and the tranny so I can put 'em up on the stand and do the gaskets right. I've done this many times on other vehicles but this is my first Dart slant. I do have a 1 ton engine hoist and a garage to work in. Is it feasible to pull the engine and transmission together? Looks pretty tight. My plan is:

Chock wheels
Remove the hood
Drop drive shaft
Remove tranny x/m
Disconnect NSS
Disconnect exhaust at manifold and any support brackets
Disconnect tranny lines
Disconnect shift linkage and kickdown
Remove motor mount nuts
Remove radiator, fan and shroud
Remove p/s pump and alternator
Disconnect all engine electrical at engine
Hook up chains/straps to bolts between valve cover and manifold
Add support strap at bell housing
Lift, pull forward, up and out.

Any gotchas I need to watch for? Does the radiator support and grill just bolt in so I can remove it if need be? Any and all insight, tips or pics is greatly appreciated!
 
sargentrs said:
'74 Dart, 225 /6, A904. I've searched and read extensively here and at slantsix.org so I've got a rough idea. Got so many leaks it's pathetic. Need to replace tranny pan gasket, shifter shaft seal and tighten bands. While I've got the tranny out figure I might as well replace both front and rear seals. I don't think I've got enough room under there without a royal PITA. Engine leaks at oil pan (not mains that I can tell), oil pump gasket, valve cover gasket and drool tubes. Also need to replace motor mount bushings and might as well put new timing cover gasket and seals and regasket the water pump. After scoping it out for 2 days, I've about decided the easiest course of action is to pull both the engine and the tranny so I can put 'em up on the stand and do the gaskets right. I've done this many times on other vehicles but this is my first Dart slant. I do have a 1 ton engine hoist and a garage to work in. Is it feasible to pull the engine and transmission together? Looks pretty tight. My plan is:

Chock wheels
Remove the hood
Drop drive shaft
Remove tranny x/m
Disconnect NSS
Disconnect exhaust at manifold and any support brackets
Disconnect tranny lines
Disconnect shift linkage and kickdown
Remove motor mount nuts
Remove radiator, fan and shroud
Remove p/s pump and alternator
Disconnect all engine electrical at engine
Hook up chains/straps to bolts between valve cover and manifold
Add support strap at bell housing
Lift, pull forward, up and out.

Any gotchas I need to watch for? Does the radiator support and grill just bolt in so I can remove it if need be? Any and all insight, tips or pics is greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

It helps if you raise the front of the car , and also a engine leveler helps, I did this on my 1976 duster/727/72 340, also helps to have someone help, I took engine out by myself , but had someone help to install
 
looks like you have the gist of it. might wanna drain the tranny to keep from making a mess. like EDMOPAR said you will need to get the front end up to clear the tailshaft. the radiator supports does not come out without cutting.
 
Just one little tip to add. Between the valve cover and the manifold face of the head there are 2 threaded bosses in the head surface. Eye bolts or just plain bolts will screw in them and give you a balanced lift point. That's why Ma Mopar put them there...
 
I pulled the slant and 904 out of my 65 Dart wagon as a unit without even removing the hood. Might have been a little easier to remove the hood, but when you're by yourself, you do what you gotta do. When it does got back together, it will be from underneath already bolted to the K.
 
I did the opposite some suggest, and it worked great. I raised the rear of the car on jack stands as high as possible for both extraction and install. I didn't have to angle the engine/trans as much this way.
 
vynn3 said:
I did the opposite some suggest, and it worked great. I raised the rear of the car on jack stands as high as possible for both extraction and install. I didn't have to angle the engine/trans as much this way.
Click to expand...

This^^^.

Another option is to unbolt the K frame, unhook the torsion bars and slide them back a bit, unhook the steering column plus all of the other things you listed and lift the front of the car up and off. You would need to have a 4 wheel dolly to set it on to pull it out.

That way you could clean and paint (or whatever) the engine compartment and the underside while it's out and clean, paint etc the K frame itself.

It all depends on your preference.
 
I've never lifted the front or the back, in fact i find it easier to just roll the car out from under the whole unit
 
I pulled mine recently, engine/trans together. Took me all of maybe an hour by myself. I have a two post lift but instead of dropping it out from under, I took it out the top, before to make sure it's balanced as that slant's center of gravity is off to the passenger side. The biggest problem I had was getting the trans shifter linkage off.
 
Thanks, dukeboy! I appreciate everybody's responses. I was dreading this but don't feel so intimidated now.:)
 
I have to do it the old fashioned way, with a chain hoist hooked to a rafter in the shed. LOL! back in previous life, I had the luxury of concretre floor and cherry picker!!!! the advice to raise the back of the car, I can see where that would probably be of advantage.
I always try to pull engine and tranny as a unit.
 
If the suspension and steering needs a rebuild, better to lift the car body off the whole K-frame. Many posts here w/ photos.

If lifting the engine/tranny out the engine bay, the rear bolt hole on the top of the head is the balance point (intended for that). Probably best to keep the tranny cross-member on the tranny. If you remove the hood, drill 2 small holes in each support arm so you can insert a nail and get the hood re-positioned. Otherwise, you may never get it aligned perfectly (how would I know?).

Unless you know the history, I would rebuild the tranny. A full kit costs $50 (rockauto) and you can buy a book w/ step-step procedures. Almost anybody could do it. Check the engine compression before pulling. That will tell you everything. If you can turn it over by hand without fighting each cylinder, it probably needs at least a re-ring and valve job.
 
ill be doing this soon, is there a trick to disconnecting the drive shaft?
can I just unbolt the yoke ?
or can I leave it all together and just slip the yoke off?
 
Unbolt the back yoke from the rear axle pinon and slip the front yoke out of the trannie. Have a pan under the trannie's rear sell to catch the fluid that will come out.
 
Courtesy of HemiMark: Take it out the bottom.

Look at the first four pages of this thread and see it done. First with a 318 and then a /6.

They drop a 318 out of a Demon to prep for a Hemi swap then slide the 318 over to the next
stall and drop a /6 out of a Duster.....to be replaced with the Demon's 318.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=88358

With everything unhooked we drop the engine onto a moving cart, place a chain onto the bumper
bolts and raise the body like we did with the Demon.

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The dip stick got tangled on a few wires! Our only snag....no pun intended!!!

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Its about 2:30..........

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Now its time to install the 318............

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Hook up the reverse wires, speed-o cable before putting it all the way in....its easier

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diymirage said:
... can I just unbolt the yoke ?
or can I leave it all together and just slip the yoke off?
Click to expand...
If your car is 1962-65, then removing the driveshaft is more involved. Always state the year and relevant features when asking a question.
 
nm9stheham said:
Unbolt the back yoke from the rear axle pinon and slip the front yoke out of the trannie. Have a pan under the trannie's rear sell to catch the fluid that will come out.
Click to expand...

Having a spare front yoke handy works here, too. Use a bungy cord or coat hanger wire to hold it. If it's going to make a mess, it will do so at the worst possible moment.
 
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