Putting a new cam in my 360

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Marcohotrod said:
say God or a supercomputer or a panel of gurus comes up with the perfect cam for your combo, it is possible that an off the shelf cam will be equal
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Impossible. The internet told me spending more money was the only solution.

rigger3006 said:
...or colt cams from aldergrove, both do a lot of custom work. dont know of anyone whos used them but they've been in business a long time, i'm sure they could give you numbers of people who have used their services
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Already checked out Colt. They're closed for a while. I'll look into Shadbolt.
 
talk to 10 cam gurus, get 10 numbers on intake duration at .050, lift, lobe sep, etc. add up, divide by 10=your ultimate cam-bet U will find an off the shelf that is super close if U look enough.
 
example-I talked to 10 gurus-1 said 255* @ .050", next 256, next 257, 258, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263, 264-do the math
 
Marcohotrod said:
20-249-4 fits the bill all day, of the shelf, any debaters want to line it up?
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Sure. Where would you like me to start? First did you read his engine specs at all before specing that cam? I'm gunna go with no. Did you read what he wants out of the cam at all before specing that cam? Again no. Did you read the cam's he is interested in to give you an idea of what kinda area he wants to be in? Also no.

You want to put a cam with 260 duration at .05 into a engine he specified as wanting low end torque in? You want to put a cam with that lift and duration into something with "aprox 9.5:1 compression" which really means he didn't CC the heads and it's most likely in the area of 9:1 compression. A cam with that duration and lift and an "RPM range" of 4000-7000. Yup. Sounds like a street engine to me. This folks, is how you make a dog. Did you even bother to figure out dynamic compression ratio?

I did. 6.67. That's assuming 9.5:1 static (at 0 altitude, victoria is all of 23 m above sea level). At 9:1 static? It's 6.34. That's a dog.

I'm not trying to be an ***. But if you're gunna come in all cocky like you know more than custom cam builders. At least spec a cam that would actually work in his situation.

What would I use? I would go with either COMP (yeah yeah I know) XE268H or XE274H. Both proven designs. The XE268H at 9.5:1 compression gives 7.84 dynamic. Hope you got good gas out there! That thing will need 91/92 at minimum. At 9:1 it gives 7.44 dynamic. 7.5 being the "ideal" iron head dynamic, that really fits the bill nicely. And the XE268H is known to be good for lots of low end torque. Lots of guys put them in truck 360's to get them to move. The XE274H at 9.5:1 gives 7.67 dynamic, or at 9:1 it gives 7.28. Very safe on premium pump gas. If you want to get away from comp and try lunati - 10200702 Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 220/226 and Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .475/.494. Or a 10200703 Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 226/234 and Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .494/.513. Both would be excellent choices. You will wanna keep an eye on dynamic compression ratio with them. The lunati's have more lift which I like. It's one of the reasons I'm considering going lunati solid roller in the winter.

Or call around, see what the cam guys recommend. And BE HONEST about your engine specs. How sure are you about the compression ratio? Make sure you know your setup inside and out. Then get the right part.
 
Marcohotrod said:
20-249-4 fits the bill all day, of the shelf, any debaters want to line it up?
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I'm sure you would argue with a stop sign.

If you want to run off the shelf crap, go ahead. Since you have never done it any other way, how would you know what you are missing?
 
Or just call Jim and order a real cam that will optimize your combination of parts, as well as probably net you 25-30 free HP and 40 TQ. The other option is to "sheep out", go with the crowd, do what all the other sheep are doing and get 75% results...do you want an A or a C?
OP you stated you lived on an island so parts are not available? Arent you an hour from Seattle? We ship to Victoria all the time and granted the Canadian gov makes it a total pain to ship to you guys(read time for a revolution) we do it anyway. Appearently NAFTA only works one way. Ship to a friend on this side and carry it in, become a custom cam grind smuggler !!! I will let you figure out where to hide it:)
 
Custom cams cost so little nowadays, there's really no sense in going off the shelf. You can get a camshaft taylored for your specific engine. Call Ken at Oregon. He will fix you up.
 
While Oregon does grind a good cam, they dont really know anything about mopars and wont have much advise on grind, they will certainly grind what you choose and do it well, but they just dont have the mopar experience to get you the most out of this combo....I will say it again, call Jim at Racer Brown!!!!
 
I don't want to badmouth ken, but he can only copy a lobe. He can't design a lobe. He has a bunch of masters made from cams that have come through his shop, several of which are mine,because he had to repair the lobes I tore off with junk lifters.

It is also very difficult to copy a lobe, and then put it on another cam. I know it's done, I've watched it, but it makes me very uncomfortable.
 
just put a comp 20-309-4 in my 73 Duster 340....going to be a daily driver again...all degree in
 
Clevite Bearing guard? Sounds like it won't be too bad to use as a break-in lubricant.
Can't find Isky or Torco locally.
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my local engine shop said use a dedicated cam break in lube ,not the clevite bearing guard , which i still have sitting on my shelf
 
Use the can assembly lube. The thick red stuff. Don't try and cut corners or you'll have the same problem again. If you wanna run this summer. Do it right this time.
 
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