Q about hellwig front bar early A

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Patrick

Patrick

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Just finished installing the front bar on my 65 valiant. Looks pretty good except that when i turn the wheel all the way left/right, the bar ends hit the spindle bolt head. It's still on jacks up front but since the bar is mounted to the control arm i don't think this will change when i let it down...
I'm also not sure if i'm near the maximum turning radius either so maybe this isn't a big deal... Just wanted to see if anyone else has noticed this or not.
Thanks,
Patrick
 
OEM spindles but i did forget to mention that i am using early KH disc brakes (small bolt pattern). I'll need to measure the end links and i will post a pic soon... When Dave@hellwig posted pictures of this setup a few years ago, it looked like the bottom of the end link bolt was inline with the spindle bolt like mine is, so at least that looked consistent... I did send him a PM but he hasn't responded; not sure he's still around...

Should I shorten the end links by ~1"?
 
Just by looking it seems the center shaft is about 1 1/2'' or less to short, I hope
a tech jumps in here soon from hellwig or a phone call for some support.
Looks like it needs to drop about one more inch to me from here.
 
Move the sway bar to about parallel with the frame ?
That would move the bar up above the lower arm. A shorter end link kit would likely be required even after the L bracket is rolled 180 degrees. Just a thought.
 
I will drop it to make sure the geometry doesn't fix itself, but i suspect it won't make a difference....
RedFish: what do you mean by "move the sway bar to about parallel with the frame?".
Since the K-frame brackets can't be moved around much, and the L-shaped control arm bracket has to be oriented this way, I'm suspecting that either a shorter or longer end-link is required. A shorter end-link will make the bar more parallel and clear this bolt, is that what you're thinking?
Thanks for input guys
 
Just sent an email to Hellwig about this. I will post whatever feedback i get from them...
 
Patrick said:
I will drop it to make sure the geometry doesn't fix itself, but i suspect it won't make a difference....
RedFish: what do you mean by "move the sway bar to about parallel with the frame?".
Since the K-frame brackets can't be moved around much, and the L-shaped control arm bracket has to be oriented this way, I'm suspecting that either a shorter or longer end-link is required. A shorter end-link will make the bar more parallel and clear this bolt, is that what you're thinking?
Thanks for input guys
Click to expand...

I'm suggesting it be assembled more like the factory bar was.
So you're saying L down and bar above it isn't possible ?
 
Redfish: I see what you mean now... Neither the install pics nor the picts from Dave@hellwig on this site had the bar mounted above... I'm leaning towards the end-link shaft length being incorrect or the bar won't work with disc brakes (but isn't the lower ball joint spindle the same between disc-drum?)
Either way, hope to get some feedback soon and i'll be sure to post an update with pics.
 
Like i said, I will drop it but since the upper L-shaped bracket is fixed to the lower shock bolt the sway bar will follow the suspension travel of the lower control arm, won't it? This leads me to believe that dropping it won't affect the geometry.
 
Patrick said:
Like i said, I will drop it but since the upper L-shaped bracket is fixed to the lower shock bolt the sway bar will follow the suspension travel of the lower control arm, won't it? This leads me to believe that dropping it won't affect the geometry.
Click to expand...


... RIDE HEIGHT... the control arm swings at an arc, the sway bar does not... as the control arm nears level (ride height) it will get farther away...
 
I wouldn't rotate the L and leave the bar beneath it. That would put the end link too close to the road for my liking.
 
I think the bolt and sleeve will need shortening to avoid hitting the BJ bolt head.
 
805moparkid: I see what you mean now, makes sense. I'll drop it and see what happens.
 
I did a 66 Charger that was lowered and when installing the Hellwig set up on it, the end links had to be shortened. If you try to flip the shock bolt mounting plate, or if you don't, have it welded to the lower control arm just for peace of mind.Thus reducing the bolt from doing all the work.
 
Problem solved. 805Moparkid was right; the problem fixed itself when i dropped the front end off the jacks. The lower control arm swings outward but the sway bar stays put = clearance. Thanks FABO
 
Happy to see this sway bar is in and working :cheers: how does it feel compared to not having the sway bar on, I am looking forward to adding one to my 66 Valiant ? how easy was the front sway bar bushing straps go on, can you post a couple pictures when you have time please, I forgot the cost, and if the 65 is the same for the 66 model :glasses7:
 
memike: I haven't taken a hard fast turn yet cause my brakes aren't bled enough. The quality of fitment is great; much better brackets than the ADDCO ones. I will try to take a pic tonight and post. I got my bar from Amazon for a little over $200. Well worth it.

Next up : frame connectors
 
Patrick said:
Problem solved. 805Moparkid was right; the problem fixed itself when i dropped the front end off the jacks. The lower control arm swings outward but the sway bar stays put = clearance. Thanks FABO
Click to expand...

Awesome!

Patrick said:
memike: I haven't taken a hard fast turn yet cause my brakes aren't bled enough. The quality of fitment is great; much better brackets than the ADDCO ones. I will try to take a pic tonight and post. I got my bar from Amazon for a little over $200. Well worth it.

Next up : frame connectors
Click to expand...

200 bucks? what is the diameter?
 
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