QA1 strut rod problem

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el5dart

el5dart

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did anyone with QA1 strut rods have a problem tightening the rear nut on the double sided stud with the hex in the middle. the problem i am having is i cant get a wrench or a socket on the 3/4" hex to hold it while trying to tighten the nylock nut. the LCA does not have room around it to put a wrench on and the stud threads are too long to put a deep well socket on. i called QA1 and the tech suggested putting a jam nut up against the 3/4 inch hex on the stud and i thought that was a great idea. i don't know why i didn't think of it last night. but to my disappointment the jam nut idea is no good because of the left hand threads on the stud still prevent it from being tightened. any help would be appreciated as i have no idea how i can tighten the nylock nut to 75 ft lbs. i cant even get it snug to put any torque on it at all.

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Isn't there a 'flat' on the other end, you could put a crescent wrench on?
I don't remember having that problem..
 
think i did it with the rod installed on the stud. use the jam nut against the rod, then you can put an end wrench on the rod to hold it
 
Try finding a taller nut. I would use Grade 8 on any suspension parts.

You could also try removing the strut rod and dressing the shrouding sheet metal back from the nut just enough to allow a deep socket to fit around it.

As I recall, a common socket fit mine with no issues.
 
Murray said:
Looks like you are tightening the wrong end?
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i am trying to hold that side so i can tighten the other side.

a deep well is too short because the threads are longer than the deepwell socket.

i will try to put the aluminum rod back on with the jam nut against the rod and try that. i havent attempted that yet. good idea @kursplat
 
kursplat said:
think i did it with the rod installed on the stud. use the jam nut against the rod, then you can put an end wrench on the rod to hold it
Click to expand...

nope just tried it. it still backs out because of the left handed threads. dad nabbit

i am really apprehensive to breaking out a die grinder and comprimising the integrity of the LCA for a pair a poorly? designed aftermarket strut rods

if that hex was about 3/4 inch wide there wouldnt be a problem
 
el5dart said:
nope just tried it. it still backs out because of the left handed threads. dad nabbit
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not sure why the left handers would matter, adding the rod and cranking the jam nut hard against it, just gives you a handle with a flat to use the wrench on it
 
I think I crammed a big flat head screw driver or two in there to keep it from spinning. You just need to put he hex flats in shear.

What they should do is make the hex large enough to capture the flats on the control arm or make the hex longer.
 
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Use double jam nuts against one another. Should give you enough holding power. It's how I've always done exhaust manifold studs. Sometimes you can torque the two jam nuts together so the hex's align and you can just put a deep socket over the double nut combo. Bingo, bango.
 
Get a sacrificial 3/4 inch socket, cut it in two. Weld each end into a piece of pipe long enough to go over the stud. Done!
 
Phreakish said:
Use double jam nuts against one another. Should give you enough holding power. It's how I've always done exhaust manifold studs. Sometimes you can torque the two jam nuts together so the hex's align and you can just put a deep socket over the double nut combo. Bingo, bango.
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yes. after disassembling the passenger side suspension to retrieve the other left hand jam nut to use the two tightened together it seems to be working. now if i can just figure out hold to hold the thing still while i torque it. i got it in a vice now.
 
kursplat said:
i did mine with the arms in the car. they weren't going anywhere
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more great thinking. i was able to get it torqued to 75 ft lbs with the LCA slid into the K member. now to do the other side.

THANK you so much for the help fellas !!!

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jbc426 said:
Try finding a taller nut. I would use Grade 8 on any suspension parts.

You could also try removing the strut rod and dressing the shrouding sheet metal back from the nut just enough to allow a deep socket to fit around it.

As I recall, a common socket fit mine with no issues.
Click to expand...


THIS^^^^^^^ You can get a coupler or whatever it’s called and then you can tighten it.

Any decent hardware store should have what we are talking about.
 
jbc426 said:
I would use Grade 8 on any suspension parts.
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it would be nice if the manufacturers supplied grade 8 hardware. i have spent a hundred bucks in the last week going to three different hardware stores replacing the garbage hardware with grade 8 on everything. i guess they supply the garbage hardware so you will have a reference on what to buy when you want to do a job properly
 
who skimp'd out on ya?
BOLT DEPOT not always convenient, but if i'm restocking, or know what i need for a project, they're great
 
kursplat said:
think i did it with the rod installed on the stud. use the jam nut against the rod, then you can put an end wrench on the rod to hold it
Click to expand...

I feel like that is the way I did it as well. I had the strut rod assembled and just put it in, I didnt take it all apart.
 
I used a die grinder and carved out that opening as the nuts wouldn't even turn with my lower control arms. I had my K-Member out when I added the strut rods so it wasn't a hard task sitting on the bench.
 
charger426 said:
I used a die grinder and carved out that opening as the nuts wouldn't even turn with my lower control arms. I had my K-Member out when I added the strut rods so it wasn't a hard task sitting on the bench.
Click to expand...

No one mentioned how long that the threads were , are they one size fits all? Looked like b body arms ---------??
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Get a sacrificial 3/4 inch socket, cut it in two.
Click to expand...

I guess since you already solved the problem this thought is arriving a bit late. But I'd cut the end off a deep socket and grind a flat on each side of the upper edge, just enough to get a crescent wrench or vise-grip on it, then tighten away.
 
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