Quest for 7's in the 1/8

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318willrun said:
Jan 5th 2022 - manual brake pushrod ordered, cheap.
Getting back on track..... Thinking out loud...
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I have that squirrel cage water pump drive and the motor gave up at the drag strip one day. Actually I was able to spin it and get it going and it worked but no longer kept my confidence...
If you do do an electric water pump you do want to do the reduced drive pulley as not triangulating the belt it will be driving the alternator to fast at high RPMs and the belt flies off... At least that was my experience at the track and what prompted me to get the smaller drive pulley...
 
j par said:
I have that squirrel cage water pump drive and the motor gave up at the drag strip one day. Actually I was able to spin it and get it going and it worked but no longer kept my confidence...
If you do do an electric water pump you do want to do the reduced drive pulley as not triangulating the belt it will be driving the alternator to fast at high RPMs and the belt flies off... At least that was my experience at the track and what prompted me to get the smaller drive pulley...
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Even though I bought a trailer, I could still end up driving it down to the track. The more I think about it, the better I'd be with an underdrive crank pulley and leave the electric water pump to the Drag Race Only guys. I hate overheating issues
 
318willrun said:
Even though I bought a trailer, I could still end up driving it down to the track. The more I think about it, the better I'd be with an underdrive crank pulley and leave the electric water pump to the Drag Race Only guys. I hate overheating issues
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I do have all that stuff and not really going to use it again... It's possible we could do some trading or cash it doesn't matter to me. I have the March performance underdrive pulley and the little Allen bolts that go with it. And I have an actual real ProForm electric water pump. They don't sell them for small block Mopar anymore but I called them and they do have replacement parts. Mine still works fine but I wanted to make sure if I ever sold it that a guy could get replacement parts. When I called they asked if there was anything wrong with it and I said no.. the guy said he thought so because they rarely ever get calls about them going bad. I assume they must be brushless electrical connections of some kind...
 
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I'm sure I have at least one if not two of the correct fan belts needed to run the electric water pump. For basically the tribe pulley and the alternator only....
This isn't a for sale for everyone just so anybody watching this knows this is a 318 only offer...
 
j par said:
I do have all that stuff and not really going to use it again... It's possible we could do some trading or cash it doesn't matter to me. I have the March performance underdrive pulley and the little Allen bolts that go with it. And I have an actual real ProForm electric water pump. They don't sell them for small block Mopar anymore but I called them and they do have replacement parts. Mine still works fine but I wanted to make sure if I ever sold it that a guy could get replacement parts. When I called they asked if there was anything wrong with it and I said no.. the guy said he thought so because they rarely ever get calls about them going bad. I assume they must be brushless electrical connections of some kind...
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Thanks. I don't know if you could do better with the March pulley w/shipping than the CVF or not. Theirs is 62 free shipping. I think for my purpose I'll stick to the mechanical water pump.
 
j par said:
View attachment 1715848061View attachment 1715848062
I'm sure I have at least one if not two of the correct fan belts needed to run the electric water pump. For basically the tribe pulley and the alternator only....
This isn't a for sale for everyone just so anybody watching this knows this is a 318 only offer...
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That March 2 groove pulley looks to be offset differently? My whole system is single groove
 
318willrun said:
That March 2 groove pulley looks to be offset differently? My whole system is single groove
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Yeah I called on all that years ago and it's correct. Really you're only going to have the drive pulley and the alternator by that point. I even have on my shelf I'm pretty sure a alternator bracket that I fed up to keep it all correct. Again at work a deal for you. I bought it years and years ago before I even knew about cvf. I have cvf stuff all over the duster now...
 
j par said:
Yeah I called on all that years ago and it's correct. Really you're only going to have the drive pulley and the alternator by that point. I even have on my shelf I'm pretty sure a alternator bracket that I fed up to keep it all correct. Again at work a deal for you. I bought it years and years ago before I even knew about cvf. I have cvf stuff all over the duster now...
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Like I mentioned, I'll probably stick with the mechanical water pump. 2.3" total thickness from the back to the top of the 1st groove on the March pulley?
 
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I so deeply notched this alternator bracket for that electric water pump I had to weld some extra onto the back side of it..
 
By the electric water plump( electric motor belt drive to water pump) thermostatically controlled. remove the thermostat.

Isolate your voltage regulator(so it can't get its ground from the fire wall any more) add a ground strap to the voltage regulator. then get a dome switch( the little switch that turn on you dome light when you open up your door) attach the ground strap to the dome switch and attach it to you carburetor. So that when you hit full throttle the sw open and you loose ground to your voltage regulator and the alternator stop charging. let off the gas and it starts charging again.

Now add a electric fan that is also thermostatically controlled as well.
That should get you close to your goal.
with out the drag and weight of the fan(assuming your running a fan with a clutch) gone and the draw of the alt,.......Should kill a tent a at the vary least and when the eng is hot and the fan is locked up going down the track may even be a 2 tent difference.
I have been told that the small single wire alt take a lot less HP to run then are Chy.

Just some food for thought.
 
Kaizen = "small change good" in Japanese.
  • So far in the Quest for 7's, I've went to manual brakes...
 
318willrun said:
Kaizen = "small change good" in Japanese.
  • So far in the Quest for 7's, I've went to manual brakes...
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  1. Manual brakes completed. 6 lbs lighter, plus brakes won't bleed down when I try to brake-torque it, pushing me deeper in the stage. Hoping for a 100th off the 60 ft time :)
  2. Ordered the CFV crank pulley. Lighter, more weight off the crank, and smaller diameter, and shorter belt will be a few grams lighter LOL. My hope is a "split hair" quicker rev, and another 100th off the 60 foot time :)
 
So to keep from readin the book what's your best ET so far?
 
318willrun said:
8.27 @ 82.5 mph on it's time out - just a couple passes end of year. Bombcycle w/750 DP Holley.
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That's badass. If some smartass in a hot rod ain't payin attention on the street, he's gonna get his clock cleaned by a damned old truck.
 
318willrun said:
  1. Manual brakes completed. 6 lbs lighter, plus brakes won't bleed down when I try to brake-torque it, pushing me deeper in the stage. Hoping for a 100th off the 60 ft time :)
  2. Ordered the CFV crank pulley. Lighter, more weight off the crank, and smaller diameter, and shorter belt will be a few grams lighter LOL. My hope is a "split hair" quicker rev, and another 100th off the 60 foot time :)
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#2 is accomplished, pulley is on. About 1.25 lbs lighter off the crank. Pulley is 4" in circumference smaller. Has to help just a little... even a little... LOL.
  • Now I gotta think of what small change #3 will be ...... :realcrazy::realcrazy::realcrazy:
 
318willrun said:
#2 is accomplished, pulley is on. About 1.25 lbs lighter off the crank. Pulley is 4" in circumference smaller. Has to help just a little... even a little... LOL.
  • Now I gotta think of what small change #3 will be ...... :realcrazy::realcrazy::realcrazy:
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Pretty sure this has already been covered (haven't read all eight pages, lol) but what kind of fan do you have? I KNOW the fan on my bracket car costs 25 hp. Sure does keep it cool though. If I needed .03, it would be in the trunk, temporarily.
 
33IMP said:
Pretty sure this has already been covered (haven't read all eight pages, lol) but what kind of fan do you have? I KNOW the fan on my bracket car costs 25 hp. Sure does keep it cool though. If I needed .03, it would be in the trunk, temporarily.
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I have a clutch fan. Clutch is a little loose (worn) so I don't know if it's costing me much. I drove it down an hour to the track with the 4.30's and only a 28" tire and no cooling issues. For sure something to consider.
 
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12many said:
Slap some aluminum lug nuts on. Save about 1lb!!

KRC-8209 Single Angle 1/2-20 NF Aluminum Lug Nuts, 20 | eBay :realcrazy:

More seriously, iirc you went manual brakes, did you use (retrofit) an aluminum master cylinder??
Aluminum motor mounts?
Remove the hood hinge springs, use a prop rod?
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It came with a aluminum MC. Never thought of aluminum motor mounts, good idea. Actually, thinking of weight loss and hood, I thought about the x-bar braces on the underside of the hood, hood springs as you mentioned, and maybe inner fender wells......
 
Plexiglass for the back glass, if you hadn’t already thought about. That’s a bunch of weight savings right there.
 
12many said:
Plexiglass for the back glass, if you hadn’t already thought about. That’s a bunch of weight savings right there.
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Eventually, I will need plexiglass in the end because that's where the roll bar enters the cab on trucks.... that happens at 11.49/7.49 ?? LOL
 
I have a brand new RPM air gap intake for it..... not sure if there is a tenth in that vs the Speedmaster air gap.... runners are bigger on the RPM, but my engine is so mild not sure that would even be a difference....
 
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