question about dash removal

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burningdog

burningdog

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I'm getting ready to tackle my first resto/repair on my 1968 cuda convertible...I want to take apart the dashboard to do a number of cleaning/improvement/restoration what not...

I thought before I began, I would ask you all how tough a task it is for a :newb: to take out a dash, and if you have any suggestions?

Thanks.
 
It is not a must..Take the dash pad off then get a small dremel and cut the bolts and plastic holders they screw into off and the dash pops out without needing to take winshield out. In order to re-install use J or U bolts.
 
Ive taken both 68 and 9 dash pads and bezels out of cuda verts without taking the ws out. I didnt remove the steel dash itself though. Take your time and be patient...AND FLEXIBLE!! Dash pads are held on thru the back with speed nuts, I believe 1/4". Get yourself a 1/4 extension and a wobble extension, trust me it will be worth the $$. I didnt have to cut anything off, but needed some good painkillers for my back by the time I was done. Good luck
 
4spdragtop said:
Ive taken both 68 and 9 dash pads and bezels out of cuda verts without taking the ws out. I didnt remove the steel dash itself though. Take your time and be patient...AND FLEXIBLE!! Dash pads are held on thru the back with speed nuts, I believe 1/4". Get yourself a 1/4 extension and a wobble extension, trust me it will be worth the $$. I didnt have to cut anything off, but needed some good painkillers for my back by the time I was done. Good luck
Click to expand...

Believe he wants the dash out, not the pad.
 
the dash bolts are covered by the windshield gasket. do yourself a big favor and take the glass out.
 
pauly v.100 said:
the dash bolts are covered by the windshield gasket. do yourself a big favor and take the glass out.
Click to expand...

from the top they are. If you dont want to spend 140 plus for a new gasket, cutting them and putting j or U bolts is much easier and cheaper.
 
to do maintanance and such suggests you're removing the instrument panel and not the entire dash. A copy of a factory service manual will be a great help.
 
What are j or u bolts? I am considering the same resto on mine.
 
First, thanks to all for the replies! I am working on the instruments, clean, want to lube speedo, replace speaker, check heating, re-install the original am radio, etc.

Therefore, I'm just looking at removing the instrument panel and not the entire dash? Sorry if I sound ignorant, but this is my first time...

I do have a copy of the factory service manual, and I am consulting it...but I wanted all of your ideas and suggestions.
 
The first and most important tip is BE CAREFUL !
I can post a pic I call the DOH Factor.
This is a spot where the printed circuit board extends beyond the edge of the pot metal housing. To grab and lift the panel here is a bad move.
Everything about these panels is extremely fragile. Owners often break contact pins out of the printed circuit boards, etc..
Many of the maintanance proceedures ( like lube speedo cable ) can be performed without removing the instrument panel.
If you do take it out, I suggest you do everything posible to prevent having to remove it a second time.
Good luck
 

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thanks for the great tips!
what about dash lighting? I can barely see the speedo, and the right half is completely dark...new bulbs? Upgrade bulbs? LED? I'm planning on keeping the original instruments, but want to brighten them up...
 
Those look cool Tony! I'll have to get some of those for my Power Wagon....the truck dashes are pitifull when it comes to lighting. Has anyone tried the black light ones? I would guess you'd have to use flourescent paint on the gauges to get the full effect, right?
 
burningdog said:
thanks for the great tips!
what about dash lighting? I can barely see the speedo, and the right half is completely dark...new bulbs? Upgrade bulbs? LED? I'm planning on keeping the original instruments, but want to brighten them up...
Click to expand...

Every bulb socket ( 8 Total ) has a screw beside it that is supposed to supply chassis ground path for the bulb.
Screws, pot metal, U nuts, etc.. are not conductors especially when diasy chained. I make a ground harness that catches every screw with a ring terminal and wire. All joined to one which is attached at the one oval head screw supporting the fuse box. Then I install Sylvania longlife #2825 .These are a slightly brighter bulb than the origibal #158. They cost about 5 bucks per pair at Walmart or any part store.
I also soldered a jumper over the dimmer reostat on my headlight switch since it was already fried. Bright as possible regardless where the knob is turned.
A little time and a 20 dollar bill will light'em up
 
Awesome suggestions - I really appreciate the help from everyone. Now I need to roll up the sleeves and get to work!
 
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