Cliff'sDodge
Cliff's66Dart
If I follow the MAD amp meter bypass concept, could I use the Red/Black as the power lead for the Fusebox? They are still joined-at the fuse box instead of together.
Question about new fuse box and Amp meter bypass
- Thread starter Cliff'sDodge
- Start date
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JMO,
Install a wire around set up and leave ALL the OEM wiring in place. Splice or link the ammeter wires together. Check bulkhead connectors to see if in good shape and fis as necessary.
I'm not a fan of the entire Mad alterations. If you want a wire from alt to starter relay, I make custom built 6 and 8 gauge wires with a fusible link.
The fusebox gets power from a welded splice in the black wire between bulkhead and ammeter.
Install a wire around set up and leave ALL the OEM wiring in place. Splice or link the ammeter wires together. Check bulkhead connectors to see if in good shape and fis as necessary.
I'm not a fan of the entire Mad alterations. If you want a wire from alt to starter relay, I make custom built 6 and 8 gauge wires with a fusible link.
The fusebox gets power from a welded splice in the black wire between bulkhead and ammeter.
You can route new wires to wherever you want. There is a branch from the weld splice that goes to the fuse box and there are male spades on a buss bar there. So rework a good portion of the OEM configuration to link red and black via that buss bar in fuse box is doable. I don't know if this is a good plan or not.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Personally I like a direct shot from the relay's battery terminal to the inside of the car without the bulkhead connector involved at all.
I also prefer self resetting circuit breakers instead of fusible link, but to each their own.
In my mind there is just something wrong with the idea that a wire burns up as a normal function when we have so many better options.
I also prefer self resetting circuit breakers instead of fusible link, but to each their own.
In my mind there is just something wrong with the idea that a wire burns up as a normal function when we have so many better options.
mopar56
Well-Known Member
I agree with trailbeast I have done a couple of these bypasses now, the first one I followed to the letter and used fusible links but it just seems so antiquated so the the second one I used marine grade "ATO" in line fuse holders which I opted for because they were easier to conceal than the reset-able circuit breakers but either way works also you must run your new wire through the bulk head connector the connection in there is too vulnerable and will most certainly show signs of heat and melting. it is a VERY important part of the bypass!
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
"If I live long enough" to get my car running again, there IS NO bulkhead connector. I made a simple sheet metal plug the same size as the old connector, and it even snaps into the hole with the factory gaskets and retainer clips. Just punch a hole with a large grommet for the wiring to run through. If you need to remove it for some reason, all the harness should pull through the hole with the plate unsnapped into the interior
Cliff'sDodge
Cliff's66Dart
I have the Bulkhead connector but it has no connectors. I opted for new wires from the engine compartment pass-through to it's source. No pesky loose terminals. Every connection is is crimped, soldered and shrink wrapped.
Cliff'sDodge
Cliff's66Dart
That's a great idea!
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