Questions about Sound Deadening Material

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19 Again..

19 Again..

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My questions are simple.
Most of the stuff on the market has an aluminum surface on top and a rubber/asphalt sticky type of material on the bottom...yes? Well if you use this stuff, and cover the bottom of the floor pans and anywhere else you want to put it. What's this stuff going to be like to take off if you say....do a complete resto to the car say down the road. I would think kerosene might become your best friend?
Don't get me wrong I found the material that someone on here recemmended from Lowes, it's a whole lot cheaper than 1 sheet of Dyna-Mat and ya get 5 times as much, and I intend to use it. But I was just wondering.. Any thoughts or experiences would be welcomed.
Second question I've started to re-do the interior and the plastic shielding that goes over the metal, where the back door panels go below the side windows (I have a Duster) is missing on both sides. I should replace it correct? I thought it was for dust and dirt protection as well as some sound deadening....yes??
 
I used a glue down sound deadener material only after I was done replacing the floor pans knowing I would not be planning on pulling it up at anytime in the future.If your car is still in progress you may not want to use something you'll have to undo in the near future.As far as the plastic behind the panels that's a moisture barrier and yes you want that.If your not concerned about factory correct.You can use heavy plastic sheeting from a roll available at most hardware stores.Just cut it to size and use a bit of weather strip adhesive to hold it in place.
 
I have a spacemaker Duster and I used a similar material of "foil bubble wrap" for the shelf under the package tray, on the pass-thru. I used a contact cement for one side. Then my carpet will go over it. I had intentions of using this same material for around my firewall and a few other places. I'm really not worried about putting the other stuff down, I'm not going to be doing any kind of a full resto for along time.. But I was just wondering...
 
19 Again.. said:
I have a spacemaker Duster and I used a similar material of "foil bubble wrap" for the shelf under the package tray, on the pass-thru. I used a contact cement for one side. Then my carpet will go over it. I had intentions of using this same material for around my firewall and a few other places. I'm really not worried about putting the other stuff down, I'm not going to be doing any kind of a full resto for along time.. But I was just wondering...
Click to expand...
Yeah I think your going about it correctly you should be fine.
 
if you do a complete resto down the road, as your asking, you're gonna have alot of other stuff thats harder to remove than relatively new sound/heat insulation. factory insulation (like the stuff sprayed on the inner fenders of your trunk) removal will make taking off recent dynamat/ B-quiet material a cake walk.
 
19,
I have been doing some research on just this subject, I actually used the Lowes stuff under my package tray, because of impatience. I used two layers, and it turned out OK. I also put the rest on top of the spun poly stuff I glued to the roof.
Let me say you get what you pay for sort of. When you take into account the thickness of the material there are better deals on the asphalt based stuff.
Here is the best per mil/per sqft deal I have found:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270701244890?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Dodge 71, had I known about this product I would have glued it to the roof in stead of the spun poly.
I will be getting the 80mil stuff off of Ebay and then putting foil backed 3M fire safe insulation instead of the jute layer under the carpet in the Missile.
Andrew
 
Eastwood is selling you a re-packaged product at extra cost.

I mean...... They are a handy company for some hard to find things, but their real business comes from people that are to lazy, don't have the time or are not interested enough to drive down the street to the local auto parts, hardware, or paint supply store.

Im not bashing the company but many of you piss away a bunch of money.
 
Thanks everyone for the input. Believe me I'm not looking to do a full resto for a lloonngg while. I guess curosity got the best of me. But it's good to hear/read I'm on the right path...
 
72ScampTramp said:
Just remember any time you create a barrier to keep something out. Your also keeping something in. The idea here is to control the mosture.
Click to expand...

Yeah I just installed new front floor pans and carpet is next. Debating on whether to go with the Home Depot/Lowes foil insulation or just regular under carpet insulation. I'd hate to put my new floor pans on a fast track to rerotting.
 
I used a product called Gorilla Shield, a fraction of the cost of DynaMat. It is not easy to install any of these peal and stick foil products. I was hoping for cooler temps inside the car and quieter cruising....I don't see any difference. Maybe it only works when the windows are up?
 
If water cannot get in to the interior, how can it rust anything?
Seal everything, if you just put floors in a 40 yr old car, do you really think you will be doing it again?
Your Grand kids might.

Take a pressure washer to the exterior, if nothing leaks go with it.

My duster rusted the drivers front floor pan from a faulty wiper seal.
After 38 years original.
I fixed it with a new pan.
My kid or his kids have to do any repairs next time. I will be to old.
Peace
Hippie.
 
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