Questions about voltage limiter?

-
L

LovetheA's

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2010
Messages
827
Reaction score
117
Location
Fairfield, CT
I'm reaching out for some clarification from the website. I know that on my car 1967 dart the voltage limiter plugs into the back of the circuit board. In order to replace it I'm going to pull the cluster. In the other posts I searched for info it states that the voltage limiter controls the temp and gas gauge. Would the voltage limiter also control the ammeter gauge as well? Right now my gas gauge and temp gauge are dead and bottomed out. My ammeter gauge on the other hand is pegged at c or charge. What is the fix and will replacing the voltage limiter help this? I just don't understand why the temp and gas gauge are bottomed out and the ammeter gauge is maxed out on charge. What to do?

Carl
 
67Dart273

So if I'm understanding this the power goes to the ammeter first in the series than goes to the temp and gas gauge? If so will the voltage limiter regulate the voltage to the ammeter than allow the appropriate voltage to the temp and gas gauge? I'll be sure to kill the power at the battery before messing with anything don't want to get hurt. As always thank you 67Dart273 for all your help and wisdom on this site. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Carl
 
No, not exactly, but kinda yes, it's not that simple. Confused? Great

Here read this

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

But mainly pay attention to the diagram on that page which is a simplified diagram of the main power distribution in these girls

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/images/amp-ga18.jpg

What is NOT shown in the above diagram is the continuation of the power going to the gauges.

Follow along. This is the "path" of current, not electron flow. Battery power comes off the starter relay stud, through the fuse link and in through the bulkhead connector on the RED wire.

Current goes through the AMMETER and out on the BLACK wire to the WELDED SPLICE

From the splice it branches off to the stuff NOT SHOWN and to the IGNITION SWITCH

Goes through the IGNITION SWITCH and out of the switch on the "IGNITION RUN" wire. This wire branches off and feeds power to the CLUSTER

This power runs stuff like the oil and brake warning lamp, and the temp and fuel gauge VOLTAGE LIMITER. From the LIMITER reduced power then branches off and goes to the FUEL and TEMP gauges

Simplified diagrams from MyMopar. These are not always correct or complete but are sometimes easier to follow than the factory manual:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67DartA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67DartB.jpg
 
Try this again


Look at page 8-118 of the factory manual

Below are crops out of that page

Start on the top diagram, find the ignition switch, and the wire with yellow dots out the bottom, Q2. This is ACCESSORY feeding off to various points including the wipers. The junction is probably right on the wiper switch. Continue down on wire G1 and on the bottom diagram, this goes to the harness connector on your instrument panel. You can actually trace this out by simply looking at the PC board traces on the cluster
 

Attachments

  • ign1.jpg
    66.3 KB · Views: 193
  • ign2.jpg
    68.8 KB · Views: 214
I don't have a larger photo of the rear of the cluster. Mine was modified because of connector damage I BELIEVE that switched 12 volts went to the (bottom photo) harness pin 3rd from far right
 

Attachments

  • 67ClusterRepair.jpg
    40.4 KB · Views: 211
  • 67two.jpg
    42.3 KB · Views: 214
  • 67three.jpg
    44.8 KB · Views: 226
This is a photo of my 67 cluster IVR socket. The socket fingers were not making contact with the PC board traces so were soldered across. The black wire is a grounding wire, added, and the blue / white wire is for switched 12V power added because of damage

attachment.php
 
I think you are talking about the dash regulator, you should be able to replace it without pulling the dash.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...art/_/N-irifyZ9cjr5?itemIdentifier=77255_0_0_

You can try to repair it yourself or you can replace it with a solid state version you can make with a few parts from radio shack.

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/REBUILD-ANY-CONSTANT-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-DASH-INSTRUMENT-CLUSTER-INTO-SOLID-STATE-/171388170170?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e787efba&vxp=mtr"]Rebuild Any Constant Voltage Regulator Dash Instrument Cluster Into Solid State | eBay[/ame]


When this regulator dies your temp and fuel gauges will not work.

it has nothing to do with your AMP gauge.

and I would disconnect the Battery before attempting to replace this.
 
A faulted limiter could create a short that would cause an overcharge state.
It might be the only thing wrong with your car.
 
RedFish said:
A faulted limiter could create a short that would cause an overcharge state.
It might be the only thing wrong with your car.
Click to expand...

Sorry buddy, ain't gonna happen. You'd blow up the PC board trace before such a thing every happened.
 
I've seen that too. Copper trace fried right off the board. It can carry a substantial amount of current though.
Refer to Murphy's Law. Reach under the dash, yank the limiter and prove me wrong.
 
Thank you everyone for all the input. It is much appreciated. I'm going to get to the car this weekend.

Carl
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top