Questions on building 440 to go in a 70 Dart

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DartDust

DartDust

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Two weeks ago I bought a 440 and 727 Trans from a 1968 Charger to build for the 70 Dart that my brother and I am building. I am new to this forum and this is our first Mopar build. We are building the 440 stock to keep the hp around 400 so the car can be driven. I have a few questions on setting up the engine and trans in the car. The K frame is from a Dart with a 318. Do I need stock mounts or mounts for a 440 to a small block K frame? Will the stock exhaust manifoldswork and will we need a rear sump oil pan? We checked the 727 and it looks to be the same length as one for a 340/360. Will I need to make some changes to mount the Trans? I am sure we will have questions as we move forward and any help we get will be greatly appreciated. One more question, was the CH4B intake stock on a 68 Charger or was it aftermarket?
 
some pics

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Well looks like you got some peices to work with. You will have to buy conversion mounts. Is the K frame Spool mount or biscut style? Exhaust manifolds most likely wont work. If your looking for a stock pan type the #187pan fits its notched for the center link. You have to check out www.bigblockdart.com TONS of good info there. I do have to say that some of these conversion parts are very expensive and time consuming if all your after is 400 solid HP a solid running 360 0r 340 would get you there easily and probably cheaper.
 
DartDust said:
The big block is not for hp it is for the hoo-ha factor. Thanks Ron
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Ahh that makes perfect sense. Check in with Schumacher (spelling) http://www.engine-swaps.com/

Also there are a few types of headers out there that work. But only a few underchassis headers. TTI and Schumacher headers.

The 187 pan is from C bodies. I found mine on Ebay for $25. Some have had luck getting the Milodon ones to work with a little fab work.

Big Block Dart will have tons of info and find the link to there old forums that has about everything you need to know. I have it stored to my favorites but Im at work right now maybe someone has the link.

If you have a spool mount K frame you can make your own direct connection style BB K frame and use C body Spool mounts.
 
Schumacher is the best place to get the mounts yopu need for the swap. You will also have to cut a little off the driver side engine mount for clearance for the oil pump. If you go with a high volume oil pump, you will have to use shims that come with the Schumacher mounts. Unless you want to notch the K-frame a little. You can use oil pan #187 0r #699 from a C-body. You still may have to modify the pan on the passenger side for a little more clearance for the centerlink. I had to on my Scamp.
 
Thanks for all the info. I was searching for info a bought the 187 oil pan and the 699 and I found out that the oil pans on a 65 and 66 C Bodies are the same as the 187 and 699. By luck I had a 383 with a good pan out of a 66 Fury in my barn. Thanks for the link to your build Bremer. I am sure I will be referring to it quite often.

Mopar oil pans.jpg
 
72ScampTramp said:
Ahh that makes perfect sense. Check in with Schumacher (spelling) http://www.engine-swaps.com/

Also there are a few types of headers out there that work. But only a few underchassis headers. TTI and Schumacher headers.

The 187 pan is from C bodies. I found mine on Ebay for $25. Some have had luck getting the Milodon ones to work with a little fab work.

Big Block Dart will have tons of info and find the link to there old forums that has about everything you need to know. I have it stored to my favorites but Im at work right now maybe someone has the link.

If you have a spool mount K frame you can make your own direct connection style BB K frame and use C body Spool mounts.
Click to expand...
I am going with the Schumacher swap kit and haeders. Thanks Ron
 
Be prepared to beef and modify your rear suspension if you have any hope at all of getting traction. I had a 440 in a 70 Duster and it was great fun and I could boil the tires on demand.. The standard leaf spring and pinion snubber beef up for the rear probably won't be enough to get decent traction. I wound up running DOT street drag radials and had to warm them up to get decent traction. Bigblockdart.com has a wealth of info on b/rb in an a body. For overall fit and lowest frig factor I would recommend the Schumaker headers, they are pricey but worth it. They should be perfect for your mild plus 440. Their design lends itself to motors that are not all out. You might consider welding in a baffle if you use the 187 pan, on really hard acceleration and cornering a few times the pickup on mine sucked air.
 

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