quick 8.75 axle guestion

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csilver

csilver

67 440 GT
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I have a foam gasket and a steel gasket. Which one goes where? Also, if everything was correct, what is the maximun axle end play I could possible get? I have none.
 
If I recall, the metal one is in between the retainer and the housing. The foam is behind the backing plate.

.008 to .018 end play is acceptable.
 
The beaded steel gasket goes between the brake backing plate and housing.

The foam gasket goes between the brake backing plate and 5-hole retainer.

I shoot for just a hair of wheel bearing lash (about 0.005"). Factory specs are too loose.
 
The maximum is over 1/4 inch, when the adjuster falls out.
Sometimes you have to bop the adjuster side axle with a big hammer and a hardwood block, to drive the other side out as far as it will go. This is usually because the housing is bent, or the bearing bore is damaged, or the bearing is not seated properly,due to hanging up on something;like a backing plate or a gasket.Do not attempt to drive it through with the adjuster-side nuts. You will end up ruining the retainer-plate
PS; you did back off the adjuster..........right?
 
Thanks. The 1/4 inch number was what I suspected. The rear axle has been an ongoing problem. It came out of a an open diff C-body and I had it and the axles) narrowed. I picked up a swap meet sure-grip unit but it doesn't feel like its going together right. The axles don't feel like they are seating properly. I'm gonna take the center section back out tomorrow and see how the axles bottom out without it. Any way, when both axle flanges are tightened down there is zero end play, even with the adjuster all the way out.
 
AJ/FormS, Thanks for the information. I took the center section back out this morning and re-installed the axles. With the adjuster out as far as it goes I couldn't fit the thrust spacer (one I have from the original open rear) in between the axles. It looks like I would have to take another 0.060 off each axle just to fit the original thrust spacer in! From what I've read the open diff and S/G are interchangeable which tells me that the length of the thrust buttons must be the same as the thrust spacer from the open diff. If I am correct, removing 0.060 from each axle should fix the problem. Any ideas how to do that?
 
csilver said:
Thanks. The 1/4 inch number was what I suspected. The rear axle has been an ongoing problem. It came out of a an open diff C-body and I had it and the axles) narrowed. I picked up a swap meet sure-grip unit but it doesn't feel like its going together right. The axles don't feel like they are seating properly. I'm gonna take the center section back out tomorrow and see how the axles bottom out without it. Any way, when both axle flanges are tightened down there is zero end play, even with the adjuster all the way out.
Click to expand...


Make sure the thrust buttons/block is removed if you are running the green bearings. If you are still using the factory roller bearings, disregard that step.

Also there are two sets of splines that the axles have to seat into. Before you pull the center, try and install the axles, while doing so, turn them slightly while pushing inward with moderate pressure to get the axles into the inner spline set.
 
csilver
You did the right thing. I've been down that road too.
You actually have three choices now... 1) is to shorten the axles and 2) is to shave the center-spacer,and 3) is to install spacers between the b-plates and the housing. I have used all three, but shortening the axles is the right way, in the long run.Cuz if you decide to start swapping pumpkins, you won't have to shave another spacer. I actually used the spacers at the B-plates for a couple of years, before shaving the axles. It's just too much work when you start swapping chunks.And sooner or later a leak will develop.
I sent mine out to the machine shop.
This is also a good time to center the rear wheels in the opening, if like most A's your housing is not centered between the fenders. If advantageous, and you have enough splines, you could take all the material off the same axle.Furthermore, the adjuster does not have to remain on the passenger-side.Whatever it takes to get the wheels centered.Someday you may need that .120 to be on a certain side. One thing to watch out for though is that the the center-spacer can move only so far until the slot hits the cross-pin. So measure carefully
 
Sounds like your custom housing is too narrow for your axles, so the splined end should be shortened.

BTW, shortening stock axles for stock '65 and newer housing, and stock brakes should never be required as all 8.75" sure-grips and '65 and newer open differentials contained 1.5" long differential thrust blocks.

If all the dimensions are correct and the wheel bearings still bind, the problem could be:

1. Inner axle seals are not inserted deep enough.
2. Wheel bearing adjusters are screwed IN too far.
3. Wheel bearing adjusters are screwed OUT too far**

**If the wheel bearing adjusters are screwed OUT too far, the adjuster teeth contact the axle flange and bind the bearing.
 
Hey DocD, when assembling everything, what if anything so you use on the metal gasket?
 
I turned 0.085 from each axle and it all fits together like it should. Moral of the story; whenever possible, do it yourself!
 
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