Worse case, replace K member, however looking at photos, it doesnt tool too bad. If you are replacing the suspension & steering components anyway, go one step further, remove K member, and straighten some of the bad dents with torch and hammer, than check for condition of welds & steering box attachment points for cracks, repair as necessary. Reassemble K member and check body/frame dimensions tweaking assembly as needed until close enough
These cars were not built with real close tolerances like todays cars are.
Once car is back together, and there is a caster problem, UCA offset corrector bushings may inexpensively fix the problem, or certainly fully adjustable tubular UCAs will fix it.
The door can be adjusted at the hinges attachment point on body. Two bolts per hinge face outward, the third is accessed from under dash & kick panel, and if fender is removed job becomes a lot easier. Have a friend help with door alignment
One place you need to check for corrosion is in the front sub frame dogleg between shock and where sub frame connects to cross member by using an awl or pick hammer probing for weak spots. If you find any they can be easily repaired by installing Safe T Caps, or by welding in homemade patches.
rayer:
