Quick Question Gas/Temp Guage Max Out

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EmersonC

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So my gas and temp guage max out to the right when I turn the power on. I have bypassed the amp guage a while back and have not had any problems, but I am assuming it is something related at that point. But before I get under the dash again what would cause those guages to max out. Would it be that they are not grounded?
 
This-is-almost-always a bad instrument voltage limiter/ regulator. I'm not fer' positive, but I believe yours it built into the fuel gauge.

Unhook the fuel gauge sender and temp sender, and oil if you have one (gauge) until you get it fixed, or your gauges will be fried
 
The voltage regulator is rather new (6 months) and is located under the hood. When you say "built in" do you mean built into the circut?
 
EmersonC said:
The voltage regulator is rather new (6 months) and is located under the hood. When you say "built in" do you mean built into the circut?
Click to expand...

I'm not talking about the under hood regulator. All Mopars use a GAUGE voltage limiter/ regulator in the dash cluster. Many are a plug--in rectangular unit on the rear of the cluster. Rally dash and earlier cars have the limiter permanently built into the fuel gauge.

The original limiters work like a signal flasher---they constantly cycle on/ off and simulate 5-6V by pulsing the 12V into them. When they fail "closed" they send full 12-14V to the gauges, causing them to pin at full scale.

Here:

http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/RTE_Gauge_Faq
 
Thanks, I did not know that! Ill take a look under there today after work and see what I got.
 
what model and year?

best to disconnect oil and temp gauges at sending unit until you ascertain the problem. gauge can not sustain high voltage to long before the nichrome insulation burns off shorts out and or breaks ruining the gauges. If not a rallye dash fuel sender also.

The rallye dash voltage limited is build into the fuel gauge. If it is a rallye gauge cluster. Get a hold of Ben here, http://www.demonivr.com/Superior.html
He can convert your current fuel gauge and rebuild and calibrate all your gauges properly as well as supply you with a proper voltage limiter with either cluster - conventional or rallye.
 
Typical gauges have 2 contact posts. A gauge with more than 2 posts definately has something else inside it, the gauge voltage limiter. This could be the fuel gauge or the temp gauge, depends on what car / what panel.
So look for the limiter plugged into the back of the panel. If not found look for a gauge with 3 posts. If thats not found either, the limiter is remotely located, like E-bodies.
All this general info wouldn't be needed if you would be specific.
 
I didn't see he stated: 66 dart. So it is an external voltage limiter. So both links posted offer what you at least need. Hopefully the gauges are not already damaged. I will say Ben is a very helpful and trusted member here and he stands by his product!
 
So when I bought the car two year ago there was a extra stock gauge cluster that came with it. Lucky for me it had a voltage regulator. I spent five minutes to change it out (record time for an electrical fix). The guages are back to normal. So easy. But now the blinkers don't flash on the dash, I probably.knocked something, but ill look into that this weekend. Thanks 67dart273 for the original response
 
I would still get a new updated one no telling how long 46 years old VL will last. At least you know the gauges still function.
 
Blinkers worked today, yet more intermittent wiring problems to deal with. Oh how I love Mopars!

I will probably get the new solid state VL, but at $50 it is not really in my budget as of now, hopefully soon though. Thanks for all of the great info everyone
 
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