Race Car Wiring Command Central (Pix Please)

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gerahead

Glutton for Punishment
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hey guys, I am considering rewiring my race car. It currently has the switches mounted to a panel in the dash where the radio used to be. It can be hard to reach once I am belted in, so I would like to relocated the switch panel to the halo bar.

I really don't like the way it was wiring previously either and would like to make it a much neater, professional looking job. The MSD7, timing computer and fuse block are currently mounted on the trans tunnel. I have smashed my fingers between the shifter handle and the MSD on more than one occasion. I am looking for examples of how some of you guys have wired yours. A little narrative might help as well to explaint what your approach was. Thanks in advance. L8r
 
There are so many variables, simple as this may be, that this is difficult to answer

Trunk mount battery? How is the disconnect/ alternator wired?

You using the switches to operate relays, or the brute force approach with big heavy toggles and large gauge wire?

How is the neutral safety for the transmission/ clutch wired?

AND different ones "of us" disagree on approach.

My idea of a trunk disconnect is to kill ALL power EVERYWHERE for safety. I believe that is the "spirit of the rules."

Others claim that a separate charge line from alternator to the battery "passes tech." This won't do ya much good when that big 'ol no6 wire melts in a wreck and starts a fire.

Last you have location of parts. You have the MSD mounted by the shifter? Where is the fuse box? Do you even HAVE a fuse panel?

Is this race only? Run some on the street? (Therefore needing lights/ signals?)

Even race only, you run head/ tail/ brake lights?

And last, much of this gets to be "personal preference". You'd feel pretty silly, fer 'xample, if you had one of these huge "truck driver" toggle switches, in a car which launches real hard, and it shuts off the ignition form inertia.
 
A buddy of mine has a full race 69 Dart. He has his switches mounted in a panel on the left side of his Cheetah shifter.
 
I used a painless relay controlled fuse box
#8001
I made my own switch panel if I did it again
I would use the painless switch panel
A lot less work.
I do not have the line lock wired through the
Relay control it did not like that.
So I wired it to the disco.
As far as the msd box pretty straight forward
Ground -battery
Power-disco
Signal - through the fuse box

I put everything on a plate where the passenger
Seat was : fuse box,msd box,coil and voltage
Regulator.
Remember everything needs to shut off
When disco is in off for NHRA .
SOLDER EVERYTHING if you want it to last.

Mine is a straight drag car pretty simple
Only 8 circuits.
Dash lighting and one tail lamp.

I would recommend a Francis kit for a full
Car with lights,turn signals,heater etc....
Nice product.
 
I used a Painless fused 6 switch panel mounted lengthwise on my trans tunnel right next to my seat. I removed almost all of the 40 year old factory wiring. I tied into the head and tailights at the dimmer switch. I have a 4 post(2pole) kill switch in the rear. I am using a 250 amp relay to tap into for a 12 volt source. The kill switch in back breaks the large cable from the battery positive and breaks the ground for the big relay. I used bosch type relays for the fan,water pump,lights,and fuel pump. I used a circuit breaker to tap into for my line lock and gauge lights. The only thing I didn't like about the Painless kit was the switch for the fan/water pump switch only turns on one or the other. I trigger two relays from the same side of the switch so they both run at the same time.
 
I saw pretty quickly that what I thought was clear as day, probably really wasn't!!!
I start over again to clarify for those who have responded. This is a race only car, with nothing but the bare essentials left. I wasn't really asking how to wire it from a technical perspective, I can handle that. What I was looking for was different ideas for how to organize/locate the components in a manner that looks like it was wired by someone who knows what they were doing. My intention is to solder everything and follow up with heat shrink. I have seen some cars with a panel attached to the door bar for terminal blocks, 2-steps, relays, etc. Others have had a platform panel on the floor where the passenger seat used to reside. My car currently has the ignition, timing computer, fuse panel and RPM switch on the tranny tunnel. I would like to move it all, except the RPM switch off of the tunnel. The attached picture is of the car before I bought it. I have done some work to clean it up, but most of it is still pretty much like it was. There is an external master cut-off switch that kills everything, two trunk mounted batteries.
I would like to take advantage of the knowledge here and avoid mistakes that others have discovered and had to redo. Thanks for the help. L8r
 

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