Scoots340
Member
Looking for suggestions as where to send my gauge cluster to have it redone. It needs a rechrome and the wood grain replaced. Also what to expect as far as cost and turn around time.
Rallye Dash restoration recommendations
- Thread starter Scoots340
- Start date
-
ir3333
Well-Known Member
Peter G sells nice repops unless you need the gauges re calibrated.His 67 - 69 Dart pieces are far superior to the originals which never lined up properly.
Nice originals all but impossible to find.
Nice originals all but impossible to find.
They have 35% off right now on some items.
1971 Plymouth Duster Parts | MA580 | 1971 Duster 340 / Demon 340 With AC & Round Knob Radio Rallye Dash Instrument Bezel | Classic Industries
1971 Plymouth Duster Parts | MA580 | 1971 Duster 340 / Demon 340 With AC & Round Knob Radio Rallye Dash Instrument Bezel | Classic Industries
Depends on your budget. New replacement is $650. I'm about to do mine on my own. You can get the woodgrain decals from Detroit Muscle Technologies and there are chrome spray paints that have come a long way in their quality. I remember reading a thread on FABO of one of the members who used the chrome paint and his pics looked amazing. Obviously not something for a show car but it fits a much lower budget. Something to consider.
The overlays from Detroit Muscle Technologies are very nice. They aren’t decals, they have some thickness and quality to them and they do have to be glued on.
I kind of did a “resto mod” on mine using carbon fiber overlays from DMT and painted the rest, I’m happy with how mine has held up over the last few years. The thread on it is here
My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
The repops are nice, but they’re expensive. From what I’ve heard though the restoration companies out there are just as expensive, and there’s a turn around time. But you end up with original parts and not repops, so there’s some value there. Just depends on what you want
I kind of did a “resto mod” on mine using carbon fiber overlays from DMT and painted the rest, I’m happy with how mine has held up over the last few years. The thread on it is here
My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
The repops are nice, but they’re expensive. From what I’ve heard though the restoration companies out there are just as expensive, and there’s a turn around time. But you end up with original parts and not repops, so there’s some value there. Just depends on what you want
All posts so far have been bezel related. Any gauge services will add to the total cost. The thing is... Nobody wants to R&R this instrument panel repeatedly for one problem after another.
What you have there might not look like a 1200 dollar renew project but it can be. Good luck with it.
What you have there might not look like a 1200 dollar renew project but it can be. Good luck with it.
GCAR in Washington state will rechrome and repaint the bezel, and apply wood grain. Can polish lenses as an option. Prices are on the web page. Gauge rebuilding is another story, as mentioned. Usually, if they work, they work, so you don't necessarily have to go whole hog. A more likely issue is the circuit board and the pins coming off it. Often they get damaged in just removing the dash. Or if you have been having problems with dash lights or instrument flakiness, they may very well have their origin in these pins. So that is another repair project -- search the forums for threads on DIY, or PM me for a blow-by-blow description.
Those old circuit boards and pins get brittle with age. These guys @ Charger Specialties have the best prices for the same product which they market everywhere. $99.- for both brand new dodge charger and mopar restoration parts- Pahrump, NV
el5dart
Well-Known Member
is the peter g guy a forum member or does he have a website?
I had no idea anyone repopped the circuit boards. A little spendy, but I spent about 6 hours on mine reinforcing the pins with brass brads and resoldering them. So that's a good option. Thanks for posting it.
One thing about the reproduction bezels is that they are not correct for every year. If you have a 1967 the repop will not be the same around the fan switch -- it will have lettering where the 67 was just blank. So that is one reason to have the original one restored -- the cost is roughly equivalent.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
Google . Pgclassic mopar restoration parts
Dash Bezel Kit Rallye Gauge 67 Barracuda w/o AC & w/Glovebox Trim
That's what I was talking about. A 67 rally dash has the round radio knobs, but should not not have any lettering around the fan switch. These guys are selling the 1971 dash minus the woodgrain as a 67, but that isn't correct. So it depends on what car you are restoring, whether that is a good option for you.
Scoots340
Member
Thanks for the advice. I was concerned about not having it look chrome if I were to attempt a repaint. I'm not sure if the gauges need recalibrating. Just paranoid about the oil pressure gauge being accurate. Is it worth getting the amp gauge changed out? My lights were flaky. There was one pin in the gauge side that had been repaired.
Here is my guage bezel as redone by GCAR. It was $495 plus the shipping both ways, but that included polishing the lenses and new red and green lenses. I also had my A pillars rechromed by them and the glovebox bezel. Total price with shipping both ways and all of the items done was $700, which I think is a very good price.
Paint will never look like chrome. Period. A lot of people go to all kinds of trouble with the amp gauge but really, unless you're pulling 80 amps on your monster stereo, all you need to do is make sure that the connections are clean. Pull the bulkhead connector and really clean both sides. If the dash lights are flaky, it's probably the pins. It's easy to test the pins if you have the circuit board on the bench, with an ohmmeter, or a 12V source and a test lamp. But sometimes the lamp sockets are bad, too -- the brass contacts get brittle and crack where they are supposed to be providing spring tension. Just replace them. I doubt the gauges need "recalibrating". They either work or they don't. If the fuel and temp don't work, it is because the voltage regulator built into the fuel gauge has failed. But you can add an external voltage regulator like the non-rally-dash cars had — you don't have to actually do anything to the fuel gauge, unless it has burnt itself out due to over-voltage in the meantime (test it with 5V). The oil pressure gauge doesn't use the voltage regulator, so if it responds at all, it is as accurate as it is going to get. I mean, there aren't any numbers on the face — how are you supposed to judge accuracy? Somewhere in the middle or higher = good.
The chrome we can see in your pic still looks better than any fresh chrome paint will. I have to agree that the wood grain on the lower portion needs to go. That area can be recovered with a kit from DMT. No painting req'd.
Oil, temperature, and fuel are basic thermal range indicators. And all 3 of them run on the same voltage limiter. The amp gauge stands alone on 12 volts. A oil warning lamp operates on 12 volts.
If you want accuracy, oil pressure shown in p.s.i., temp shown in degrees, you're going to need different gauges with their matching senders.
Last edited:
Papaduster
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2010
- Messages
- 122
- Reaction score
- 53
Go to PG Classic the sell new repop with real chrome sign up n get the 15% discount code
-
