Rattle can primer?

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hemitheus

19? Plymouth Scampenstein
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Are there any good primers in a rattle can? I have been cleaning off the glue and crud from the old vinyl top and dont want the bare metal to start to rust. I also dont want to use a garbage primer.:study:
 
Find a an auto body supply store and see if they have 2K in cans or get a quart of primer mix it and use a small roller.

The 2K in can is not, Not cheap and you need to use it all in one shot because when you add the hardener thats it. Any left over will dry in the can.
 
You can also get really good quality lacquer primer in a can. But don't forget that any primer EXCEPT epoxy is porous, and will let water get to the bare metal underneath.

I would be tempted to try epoxy primer (you can get it cheap from Summit these days, or SPI) and roll it on as already suggested.
 
Get a Preval sprayer and a qt of good primer and activator
 
Sherwin Williams has a few good ones. I like the krylon.
 
What ever you use make sure its automotive grade. Other wise you risk having problem with what ever you top caot it with. SEM is a safe bet. They have epoxy in cans as well as high build. Stay away from Krylon or Rustolium. Maybe good for detailing small parts but it doesnt belong on the exterior
 
I've had good luck with rustoleum automotive primer from Walmart.
 
I've had good luck with rustoleum automotive primer from Walmart.

XS2 so have i. i didnt do my whole car but i did do my hood. it has held up beautifully. after a good wet sand the paint went on like a dream (the scoop is just sitting on there)
 

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I agree with the "Automotive" Rustoleum primer...I am using it on the engine bay as did a couple other members on here who did their engine bays. Also Dupli and Rustoleum Etch primer I like.
 
SEM primer. It's pricey but works excellent. They have self etching and filler prime both in cans and they are good products. Rustoleum is ok but this stuff is much better.
 
if you plan on putting good primer on later spray the bare metal with gibbs oil. It'll last a long time (you can always retreat) and it comes right off with paint thinner when you're ready to paint.
 
Dominion sure seal sells rattle can primer that works well on bare steel. It's called 1 step self etching.
 
If you ever plan on painting over a rattle can primer you better plan on cleaning most of it off or it will end up causing issues with your paint. There are a lot of good cheap primers you can spray with a gun even a cheap gun from say pep boys
 
SEM is high quality that is just as good as a top of the line primer you would shoot out of a gun. I use it for small stuff on occasion if I don't want to mix primer and clean my gun.
 
Are you planning on painting your car fairly soon? If not, I think it might be better to apply a coat of Rustoleum PAINT - not primer. As mentioned, primer will no seal out moisture. When you get around to doing the actual paint / body work, the rustoleum will need to be sanded off, though.
 
Southern Polyurethanes sells their epoxy in quarts (1qt part A, 1 qt part B). I bet you could get them to sell you less than a quart, like a couple pints. Then you can mix what you need for the job and save the rest for other jobs. Prep your metal as much as humanly possible and brush it on. Lays down smooth with a gun and probably would lay down nice with a brush. It is etching epoxy. Rock solid foundation coat and excellent quality.
 
Anything over bare metal is better than bare metal in terms of rust resistance. I've had no problems laying down 2 part primer with a PreVal spray unit. That said, at the recommendation of my paint guy, the car has always been completely sanded down to bare metal, primer, and then painted.
 
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