Realistic estimate Please

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RobbAdams

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How long domyou think an engine swap will take in my 66 cuda. Please take the following information into consideration.

-Car is currently /6-904
-Going to 360 - 727
-have schumacher mounts
-Motor is fully assembled already
-I have an engine hoist and am planning to insert from the top
-I have never done this before, but I am somewhat mechanically inclined. I did swap out the cam intake carb etc on the motor going in. have done break work oil changes, Strters, alternator changes Etc
-car is already set up with an msd ignition, so I think i should be able to plug the new distributer into the old plug.


Am I crazy to think I can do this myself?

How many people would I need to Help me, none of my friends are really car guys.

My mechanic said he should be able to do it for about $600?
 
I've never done a Mopar but Fords and Chevs are pretty easy. I'd give yourself a Saturday, but it can be done in just a few hours. Best to have someone helping to line things up.
 
I always do my own by myself. If the engine is already out of the car it should be all in a weekends work.
 
would the 904 to 727 swap require a modified driveshaft? How about the size of the U-joints - are they different?

If the engine is ready to go, it should only take a day to complete. If it wasn;t your first time, I'd say a few hours to do it. It's realy rather easy. If you have planned ahead and know how the wiring will hook up, it should be a breeze. It's really all the small details that you forget about that usually takes the most time.

Here's some thing to consider:
-cooling. do you have the right hoses for the new engine.
-wiring. just double check if anything needs to be modified to work of fit.
-accesories - do you have the right belts,brackets and pulleys.

small details, but they seem to be the ones I always forget about until it's in and I want to get the thing running. Then I have to wait to collect and/or modify parts.

No question you can do it yourself. Go for it.
 
it should just be a weekend project, theres not all that much to it, i can have an engine out and back in within a day
good luck with your engine i hope it all goes well
 
OK so you could probably have the slant out and the V8 bolted down in about 4 hours.

Each front mount is (1) nut.
Rear crossmember is (4) bolts plus (2) nuts
Spedometer cable.
Shift linkage
Fuel line.
Wiring harness 1 nut on alternator, temp & oil senders, 1 nut on coil, 2 on starter.
Negative battery cable
Throttle linkage.
Radiator, fan and hoses.
Exhaust flange
And thats about it.

Reverse the above and you're in business.
Need V8 throttle linkage.
Need V8 radiator and hoses
Need V8 wiring harness (or modify existing)
Need totally different exhaust system.

So, if you have all the pieces handy, like perhaps a V8 parts car in the driveway to rob parts off of, I'd say a weekend.

If you don't have all the "little stuff" all bets are off. If time is an issue, like you need to drive it to work the following Monday, make sure you have as many parts lined up beforehand.
 
If you're talking about the basic swap a weekend would probably be plenty of time. You'll have to get the car way up in the air if you are going to try to put the engine & trans in as a unit. I'd probably put the trans in first & go from there. It's always nice to have somebody there to help, even if it's only to raise & lower the cherry picker while you keep an eye on other things or try to pry things into position.

If you're talking about having a driveable vehicle there are other things to be considered, such as the exhaust system & the cooling system. What manifolds or headers are you planning to use? You'll probably have to cobble something together unless you plan to run stock 273 manifolds. Your /6 radiator probably won't be adequate for the engine but you might be able to nurse it along for a while. The radiator hose fittings on the radiator aren't likely to be in the right place for a 360. If you use a 273 timing cover & early water pump, I think you can then use 273 radiator hoses to hook up to the /6 radiator. I know that on my 64 Barracuda the /6 & V8 radiators had the fittings in the same place. I also think I've read where there might be some minor clearance issues with the 727 in an early A. I'm not sure what mount you'll need for the trans mount but I think the trans crossmember form the 66 will work. I'm sure I've forgotten something but you'll hear from others here.


Looks like C130 Chief covered a lot of the same things while I was typing.
 
Have you got the V8 centerlink? Right angle oil filter adapter? Correct exhaust manifolds? And or headers? Drive shaft length changes with 904/727 swap. One extra person there for safety and help. They don't need to be mechanical but have to understand how to raise and lower the engine hoist and a floor jack.
 
OK to answer a few questions.

-Car already has a drop centerlink
-I Have Spitfire headers
-I am using belts and accesories that were on the 360 when I got it
-Lokar Kickdown linkage
-I am planning to use flexible rad hosses until I get a new bigger rad.The /6 rad that is in it is only about 1.5 years old
-I am planning to drive with the open headers to the exhaust shop and will pay for the ticket with a BIG smile on my face if I get one!!!!


I laso have a 904 trans available, will this make things easier?

I have the appropriate B&M Flexplate for my 360 for the 904

Is there a way to determine driveshaft dimesions before the engine and tranny are in?
 
I don't recall if the 66 has the ball and trunion front on the driveshaft or a regular yoke. But if it has a yoke and you had a 904 with the /6 before the 904 instead of the 727 will be a much easier install. Plus I think you have to massage the body seam in the trans tunnel to fit the 727. If it has the trunion you have two options. One is to find a v8 trunion style tranny, or two is to have a driveshaft made to remove the trunion end.
 
OK I have no idea what you are talking about, I am going to run outside and snap some pic's underneath, and you can help me out!!:-D
 
Here is a schematic of the ball and trunion setup.

ball trunion.jpg
 
Rob, you 66 has a standard type tranny U-joint stsyem, not the old ball and trunion, so you're good to go on that one.

The 904 will be a much simpler and faster fit than the 727, although that will also work with a little more effort. The pinch weld seam in the tranny tunnel needs to be flattened in order to use the 727. The 727 also uses a different front tranny slide yoke than the 904, so you'd need that also to use the 727. What torque converter are you using - the old /6 one?

I'd count on Mr. Murphy coming for a visit and imposing his Law during the swap, so be prepared to spend the compete weekend on it. Good luck.
 
OK I Was under there, and it is a normal type u joint. Are all 904's the same length?

I was considering using the Slant converter if I go with the 904, as it is new, I only have had that tranny for about 1 year, I had a new one installed with the new tranny.

The slant converter will be ok for the 360 right?

At some point I would like to get a higher stall one, but it is not in the cards right now. a bigger rad and new exhaust are first in line!
 
im not positive but i think the housings are different from /6 904 to sb 904 the guy who i bought my car from converted /6 to 318 and had to have the housing switched.
 
i always figure if you pay someone you end up with a lighter wallet and you learn nothing. I try and do absoltuely everything i can myself, if not, maybe find a nearby member that may be able to help out
 
im not positive but i think the housings are different from /6 904 to sb 904 the guy who i bought my car from converted /6 to 318 and had to have the housing switched.
Click to expand...

I do have a SB 904 (Thanks Muller) stashed away that I have been debating using, looksmlike the decision has been finalized. I was leaning towards the 727, just because it only has 30 some thousand miles on it.
 
Are you putting the trans and engine in as one unit?
Because if you are it will take 2 for sure and on the lift it helps if you have an engine sling, to adjust front to back load.
I would also say a job for a complete weekend.
 
I second your vote on going with a 904.

When I swapped in my 340/727 with schumacher mounts into my '65, I had a heck of a time getting the 727 to fit.

I flattened the pinch weld. No Go. Cut out the pinch weld. No Go. Cut out a section of the tunnel and finally it would fit. Had to create a compound curve patch panel and weld it in to finally solve the problem.

Concerning your SB 904...make sure your slant six converter is the same era 904. Pre-'68 904s had a different input spline to the torque converter than the '68 and up. A '68 and up tranny will have more upgrade options for a torque converter than pre-'68. As far as stall goes...the slant torque converter will flash a little hirer with that new found power in you 360.

Driveshaft length will be the same as long as you don't change the rear end.

If your 66 had A/C then it already has the v-8 accelerator pedal. If not...you will need to get one or make other mods to make it work.


My mechanic said he should be able to do it for about $600?
Click to expand...
Not a bad price...but it will go up once missing/broken parts and typical challenges are factored in. Although harder to do it yourself, you will KNOW your car and that knowledge is PRICELESS.

So far everyone has give some awesome advice. Some of it I had to learn the hard way over the last few months. Good Luck.
 
if you have the sb 904 i would go with that a lot of people on here would argue the 904 is better than 727 if you are going with a sb. there is a post 904 or 727 in the tranny section right now.

as far as i know the driveshaft on my car was not changed when it went from /6 to 318 so you may be alright
 
Im not sure on a 66 but my 69 dart the throttle cable didnt work right so i just bought lokar's throttle and kickdown
 
Oh, I forgot my car was a 273 2bbl when it was born, so it does have the cable type accelerator peddle.

on the lift it helps if you have an engine sling, to adjust front to back load.
Click to expand...

I have a "Thingy" that you can crank to tilt the motor front to back, is this what you are talking about?

Concerning your SB 904...make sure your slant six converter is the same era 904. Pre-'68 904s had a different input spline to the torque converter than the '68 and up. A '68 and up tranny will have more upgrade options for a torque converter than pre-'68. As far as stall goes...the slant torque converter will flash a little hirer with that new found power in you 360.
Click to expand...

What are some Key identifiers of a post 68 904 vs an Early one?
 
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