Reaming spindle

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wireweld

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When reaming spindle from small joint to large joint, do you drill the hole thru the spindle for the minor diameter first? And then ream?
 
I'm assuming you want to use late model B-joint/upper arms or their tubular type replacements w/the rest of what you have to be unchanged, if so, yes it would cut the time
You spend reaming down exponentially. Just be sure of the thickness yours vs. the late model, the small dia. may need adjusted depending on the amt. of variation(if any), up
or down depending. I don't personally know anyone who has done this, and have not investigated the dimensions to evaluate poss. problems w/it, but I know many have gone
the other way w/a tapered sleeve bushing. I assume you have the correct taper reamer from someone(Goodson,McMaster-Carr,etc.)? There are two different std.
tapers used in automotive joints, 1.5"/ft. & 2.0"/ft., the former more common. If
you are planning to drive the reamer, usual recommended RPM is approx. -40-.
 
Last edited:
Killer6 said:
I'm assuming you want to use late model B-joint/upper arms or their tubular type replacements w/the rest of what you have to be unchanged, if so, yes it would cut the time
You spend reaming down exponentially. Just be sure of the thickness yours vs. the late model, the small dia. may need adjusted depending on the amt. of variation(if any), up
or down depending. I don't personally know anyone who has done this, and have not investigated the dimensions to evaluate poss. problems w/it, but I know many have gone
the other way w/a tapered sleeve bushing. I assume you have the correct taper reamer from someone(Goodson,McMaster-Carr,etc.)? There are two different std.
tapers used in automotive joints, 1.5"/ft. & 2.0"/ft., the former more common. If
you are planning to drive the reamer, usual recommended RPM is approx. -40-.
Click to expand...
Yes. This is what I was looking for. I plan to use the large ball joint with the Kelsey Hayes spindle. Thank you.
 
I had Bill at RMS ream my spindles for the larger ball joint. There is no problem doing this. If you have questions he's a god source to ask.
 
hey get really thin at the upper side , it can be done but your weaking that mount . if its drag race car its fine , but street ? i think i talked with hemidenny regarding that very same thing . he has done it him self .
 
For a drag car, the SBJ would be superior. Less friction, so easier movement, and probably a pound lighter for the pair.
I really can't imagine anything beyond off road or demo derby, where the BBJ could possibly have a benefit
 
Well. I have firm feel uppers with BBJ's, that is why I wanted to do this. Now I'm thinking I could sell and buy the uppers with sbj. I don't know.
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
For a drag car, the SBJ would be superior. Less friction, so easier movement, and probably a pound lighter for the pair.
I really can't imagine anything beyond off road or demo derby, where the BBJ could possibly have a benefit
Click to expand...

you are on the money.

the Butch Leal '75 B/MP Hemi Duster I am restoring has small BJs.....big BJs removed....small BJs added when built in 1975 at Butlers shop.
 
If the firm feel arms are designed for increased caster, that is a reason, and any street car can use improved durability. Wanting a better upper arm w/o having to replace
everything below it is understandable, but that UCA is only better if more caster is the reason, larger B-joint aside. I'm not familiar w/the OP's ride, so I have no idea what
his needs are.
 
The reason to ream taper is because I have the uca from firm feel already and don't want to buy another set. I am using the KH disc brakes that came on the car to bring the track width in narrower.
 
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