I guess I am not seeing that...LOL
they both are in the block..
Thanks everyone.
Figured the one in the block was wrong but figured I’d double check.
Any tips for the install of the new one?
I always staggered mine so the ends weren't flat with the machines surface areas, that way a piece of each end slides into the cap and block. Does that make sense?
Butt...butt...I see studs screwed into it....lol....
Is it just me or do I need CC on this reply?what all says. offset both top and bottom. point r urebulding (sp) no stop. if you and you are doing screw all others lip on seal should b in to motor pressure comes out of engine keep it in. but b slow offset each seal. that makes the seals covering main meeting area solid not much a 1/4 inch no leaks on loose engines. in other words have part any amount sticking out of block offset man same . then u have a solid blocking oil...
I cannot begin to count the number of rear main seals I have installed through the years, be it in new builds, or maintenance repairs, but I have never one time offset the rear main seal. I think that is some bullshit magazine myth. If the rear seal joint is going to leak, it's going to leak no matter where the joint is clocked. Also, I always put a small dab of high temp RTV on the ends of the seal and along the mating surface of the block where rear main bearing cap meets it. Has always worked and been leak free for me.
If the seal ends are at the parting line of the block and cap there is a chance that parting line may not hold the seal ends exactly lined up.
Is it just me or do I need CC on this reply?