Rear Main Seal orientation

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What;s the preference high volume or standard oil pump??
Mild cam Comp XE 256H-10 , 300 hp output. Hughes rollers, beehive springs, mildy ported heads
 
There is no way I'd put that back together without trying to find out WHY

Mike the crank or better, have it miked and inspected by someone experienced. Make an effort to clean the oil passages in the engine. Get a diagram of the oil plugs and make SURE they are all in place. There's one, example, "drive in" plug in the vertical oil gallery back there above the pump.
 
67Dart273 said:
There is no way I'd put that back together without trying to find out WHY

Mike the crank or better, have it miked and inspected by someone experienced. Make an effort to clean the oil passages in the engine. Get a diagram of the oil plugs and make SURE they are all in place. There's one, example, "drive in" plug in the vertical oil gallery back there above the pump.
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He already told us why.....
 
ken5124 said:
What;s the preference high volume or standard oil pump??
Mild cam Comp XE 256H-10 , 300 hp output. Hughes rollers, beehive springs, mildy ported heads
Click to expand...

Regular Volume is fine. If you go with the high volume pump, the oil pump drive will need to be a hardened unit so it does not break.
 
Mad Dart said:
He already told us why.....
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And when I go way back in my memory banks ( fading fast) from 10 years ago when I first started it, It was winter, cold, and like a dumb ***, I did not prime the engine first.

Coupled with the occasional winter start ups... and so on...
 
ken5124 said:
And when I go way back in my memory banks ( fading fast) from 10 years ago when I first started it, It was winter, cold, and like a dumb ***, I did not prime the engine first.

Coupled with the occasional winter start ups... and so on...
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Its fine, do the bearings, oil pick up and oil pump. People like to spend other peoples money on the internet. There is so much mis information it is crazy. They say you gotta do this, you gotta do that because their second cousins, uncles, brothers, daughter inlaws grandpa told them back in 1922...... and they are proven wrong on a daily basis.
Put it together and........:burnout:
 
Put bearing break in lube on those surfaces before you put it back together. And run the oil pump with a priming rod on the engine stand and check for leaks especially the rear main seal.
 
Mad Dart said:
Its fine, do the bearings, oil pick up and oil pump. People like to spend other peoples money on the internet. There is so much mis information it is crazy. They say you gotta do this, you gotta do that because their second cousins, uncles, brothers, daughter inlaws grandpa told them back in 1922...... and they are proven wrong on a daily basis.
Put it together and........:burnout:
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Why are you being such an ***?

He didn't "tell us why." Those bearings are flat BURNED. That doesn't look like 8500 miles, it looks like 185000 miles

"Spending other peoples money on the internet."

It doesn't cost very much to inspect an engine that is already apart and make God Dammed sure it won't have to come apart again soon--quite possibly in a violent manner.
 
67Dart273 said:
Why are you being such an ***?

He didn't "tell us why." Those bearings are flat BURNED. That doesn't look like 8500 miles, it looks like 185000 miles

"Spending other peoples money on the internet."

It doesn't cost very much to inspect an engine that is already apart and make God Dammed sure it won't have to come apart again soon--quite possibly in a violent manner.
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That is what I suggested in my post #20. But that is the way I would do it. I'm not going to argue with those that suggest other wise. If the Op wants to follow someone elses advice, so be it. Sooner or later someone will post what you want to hear and make you feel good about taking a short cut. Good luck.
 
67Dart273 said:
Why are you being such an ***?

He didn't "tell us why." Those bearings are flat BURNED. That doesn't look like 8500 miles, it looks like 185000 miles

"Spending other peoples money on the internet."

It doesn't cost very much to inspect an engine that is already apart and make God Dammed sure it won't have to come apart again soon--quite possibly in a violent manner.
Click to expand...

Calm down firecracker. You automatically assume I am pointing my finger at you? You guilty of something? Lol

If you read his postings the engine has lasted him 10 Years. It will last another 10 by replacing the bearings, pump and pickup. I have been here before and done the same and sometimes even worse when I was younger. I know what the results will be from experience. Take it or leave it!:D

The crank has no scarring either........

You guys think he hasn't inspected the engine while it is apart? Lol on that one too!
 
The bearings are not burned, just worn down to the copper in the high pressure spots.
It could be completely redone, or just put new bearings in it and run it.
I have seen engines that looked just like that last for decades with the new bearings.
It does look like a lot more than 8500 miles but that doesn't really matter either.

If I had a shitload of extra money laying around then I would have it all done new.
 
Thanks to each of you for your comments and observations and suggestions.

That's why I like this site so much, I can ask questions of clearly more knowledgable people than me, and get honest insight into what I need to do.

Because the engine ran so well before I took it apart to fix the oil leaks, I will replace the rod bearings with new, re assemble properly with break in lube, change out the oil pump and pickup ( to be sure) and then do what I missed on original fire up ten years ago.

Prime the oil pump properly before starting it.

Excellent feedback !! Will post results when I get in back in and fired.
 
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