Rear tires are rubbing on fender!

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69_340_GTS said:
Yeah but it won't add any clearance. You do need to stiffen up the rear end, and at the same time correct the ride height (up). Most easily done with new springs. Also, it looks like the wheels should have more backspacing (which of course the only way to correct is with new wheels). Or use a smaller tire.
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Ugh! I just bought these (almost as much as the wheels). Maybe I'll just turn left all the time, it doesn't seem rub when I turn left.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's saggin ***. You need some new springs.
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Yep, get it up higher and away from the widest part of the tire. Like this...

18714907-6FBE-4F4C-8A3E-E39D18E6D2C0.jpeg
 
AJ/FormS said:
Hang on OP, you need to understand whats going on in the turns.
Go find 4 friends. A couple of them robust, and a couple of them with strong backs. Now go find a heavy duty anchor point like a brick building and snuggle up to it about 3 ft away. Bring a flash light. and something to lie down on. Now get the robust buddies to sit on the back corner, and the strong ones to jack the car over until the fender hits the tire in question, by wedging themselves between the car and the building. Now, you will be laying under the car with the flashlight, watching what is going on.
You will see that the body is restrained by the rubber bushings in the front eye and by the flexi-shackle at the rear,and by nothing else, Watch your shackle, as the boys alternately apply and release wedge. Get one of the robust helpers to jump off and then retest.
Now go home and replace all the rubber bits with straight Poly.
Then retest.
Do not use any shackle that uses loose thru bolts, unless it is a welded assembly.
Loose axle U-bolts will allow some jacking, so torque them up.
The closer to flat your rear spring is, the less torque it can apply to the bushings and shackle, and the less side-shift you will have. The more tire pressure you run, the quicker the body will side-shift. Sometime reducing the tire pressure helps. but do not reduce so far as to induce other phenomena like rear-steer in the turns, or premature wear out.

If you have an 8.75, and if you have a more generous clearance on the passenger side, I have found that swapping the right-side axle with the adjuster on it, over to the driver's side will sometimes get me what I need. If there is room in the adjuster, I have on one occasion, ground some spline off the end of the axle.
An anti-sway bar is to reduce body roll. It will do as good as nothing for side-shift.
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Wow, that's an awesome response. I have plenty of "husky" friends, not many strong ones so I'll take your word for it. I do have a 8.75 and I just swapped the axles so I'd have a 4.5" bolt pattern. I do have a bit more space on the driver's side. I don't remember seeing an adjuster on the axle though.
 
Mexmarine said:
Ugh! I just bought these (almost as much as the wheels). Maybe I'll just turn left all the time, it doesn't seem rub when I turn left.
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Mexmarine said:
Aww man, I won't look as cool without the low stance.
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It won’t look too cool if you cut down a tire in an emergency maneuver, blow it out and wrap it around a pole either.
 
Mexmarine said:
I lowered the rear end an inch and a half with blocks.
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Wait, you just now tell us you lowered it and can't figure out why your tires are hitting? Obviously there's one solution, yank the stupid things out
 
Ddaddy said:
It won’t look too cool if you cut down a tire in an emergency maneuver, blow it out and wrap it around a pole either.
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Hahaha, I don't know man, I look pretty cool in a bandaged head an arm. I've seen it before. But you're right, I might have to yank the blocks.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Wait, you just now tell us you lowered it and can't figure out why your tires are hitting? Obviously there's one solution, yank the stupid things out
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It's a long story. I had it lowered before I got the new wheels. Then I switched axles to get a 5x4.5 bolt pattern. The old tires didn't fit so I got some new ones. They fit but now one , passenger side, is rubbing.
 
Mexmarine said:
...I do have a 8.75 and I just swapped the axles so I'd have a 4.5" bolt pattern. I do have a bit more space on the driver's side. I don't remember seeing an adjuster on the axle though.
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By '72 the adjustable bearings had long been eliminated. Even my '69 doesn't have them. I'm not sure why guys start adding info like that to a thread since it does not apply to your car.
 
69_340_GTS said:
By '72 the adjustable bearings had long been eliminated. Even my '69 doesn't have them. I'm not sure why guys start adding info like that to a thread since it does not apply to your car.
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Maybe he misread it.
 
Mexmarine said:
Ouch! Really? I guess it’s my old lowrider roots but I love it
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Don't listen to them, I think it looks fine, but blocks are really not the right way to do it. The real problem is the shackle sway when cornering, and a stabilizer bar is
going to do little to stop that. A track-bar, such as what is run on solid axles attached with parallel arms or links, control this ........but swing in an arc. I know it well,
the rears on My Shelby Z's etc. shift side to side when the body rises & falls, so the only really good solution is a watts-style linkage control. It's either that, stiffen-up
what You've got per AJ, or make more room for/get different rollers........................
 
Killer6 said:
Don't listen to them, I think it looks fine, but blocks are really not the right way to do it. The real problem is the shackle sway when cornering, and a stabilizer bar is
going to do little to stop that. A track-bar, such as what is run on solid axles attached with parallel arms or links, control this ........but swing in an arc. I know it well,
the rears on My Shelby Z's etc. shift side to side when the body rises & falls, so the only really good solution is a watts-style linkage control. It's either that, stiffen-up
what You've got per AJ, or make more room for/get different rollers........................
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I am not familiar with this type of linkage control. I’ll do some research ($). Thanks for the advice.
 
Mexmarine said:
I am not familiar with this type of linkage control. I’ll do some research ($). Thanks for the advice.
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Used on the backs of later Crown-Vic's/Gran Marquis' & PT Cruisers in an OE app, been around a while............................................
 
Killer6 said:
Used on the backs of later Crown-Vic's/Gran Marquis' & PT Cruisers in an OE app, been around a while............................................
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Wikipedia just showed me; very interesting. I also looked up prices, around $540.00. I think I’ll remove the blocks first and see what happens.
 
Mexmarine said:
Wikipedia just showed me; very interesting. I also looked up prices, around $540.00. I think I’ll remove the blocks first and see what happens.
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LOL, I hear Ya, just for thought....how far off-center is the rear i.e. how much room does the driver side have?
 
Killer6 said:
LOL, I hear Ya, just for thought....how far off-center is the rear i.e. how much room does the driver side have?
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Sorry for the late response. The passenger side tire is about an inch away from the fender. Why?
 
Mexmarine said:
Sorry, drivers side.
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It's common to see 1/4-1/2" of difference in clearance from one side to another, not hard to understand as that's only a shift of 1/8-1/4" towards one side from centered.
1" is a lot, I'd try loosening the front spring hangars and shackle mount bolts, then see if they'll shift over towards the driver's side, then snug 'em down & recheck. The accuracy and snugness of those blocks may the issue if they're sub-par or incorrect. You can get new U-bolts(Well, You're supposed to, but if You're keeping the blocks & didn't over-torque them..) and check the spring eye bolt and corresponding holes in the perches, they should be a snug fit, if not there may be a little "wiggle"
room to shift it further there. If they are snug, You can slot the perch or seat hole laterally a small amount opposite the direction You wish to move the axle. To center
up say 1" of room on the drivers side and 1/2" on the pass. side, You only need to shift the axle 1/4" to the dr. side to center-up.
 
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Killer6 said:
It's common to see 1/4-1/2" of difference in clearance from one side to another, not hard to understand as that's only a shift of 1/8-1/4" towards one side from centered.
1" is a lot, I'd try loosening the front spring hangars and shackle mount bolts, then see if they'll shift over towards the driver's side, then snug 'em down & recheck. The accuracy and snugness of those blocks may the issue if they're sub-par or incorrect. You can get new U-bolts(Well, You're supposed to, but if You're keeping the blocks & didn't over-torque them..) and check the spring eye bolt and corresponding holes in the perches, they should be a snug fit, if not there may be a little "wiggle"
room to shift it further there. If they are snug, You can slot the perch or seat hole laterally a small amount opposite the direction You wish to move the axle. To center
up say 1" of room on the drivers side and 1/2" on the pass. side, You only need to shift the axle 1/4" to the dr. side to center-up.
Click to expand...
That's why I love this place (FABO). It never occurred to me to try that. I'll see if I can get to it this weekend. I'll let you know what happens.
 
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