Reattaching 273 Commando valve covers

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brodphish

brodphish

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Location
Green Bay WI
Put new crinkle black finish on my covers and they turned out great! Now it’s time to put them back on and I’m hoping get it done with no leaks. I’m thinking:

1. Put a black RTV bead on the cover
2. Place the gasket (Fel-Pro Perfomance cork) on the cover
3. Place a black RTV bead on the head
4. Set the cover on the head and replace cover bolts

Is this the best sequence? Any tips for a no leaks outcome?

IMG_4453.jpeg


IMG_4454.jpeg
 
As with any stamped steel cover, make sure the gasket surfaces are true and not bowed or warped- if not, tap everything flat with a hammer and anvil (hope you did that before you painted them).
I would also seriously consider using these, unless you're going for concours:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Perfor...m_term=4581596255650123&utm_content=Evergreen
(paint them black)
I agree with 4spdragtop, no sealer on the heads. If this is a true Commando/Charger, you'll need to be pulling the covers off to adjust the valves every so often. Consider using silicone gaskets- no leaks, and reuseable. No sealant needed.
Pardon Our Interruption...
 
If using rtv read and follow the instructions.

Typically it says to apply a bead, allow to tach up, attach the part but do not torque, wait some amount of time, then TORQUE to spec.
 
i'll throw another vote for silly-cone-carne gasketa gasketas.

the moroso ones are dough, but zero leaks. and the benefit of no muss, no fuss when you need to yoink off the covers for valve check/adjust.
 
Dana ur exactly right - read the RTV instructions spot on.

Fate - I didn’t true up but I did notice how flat every side / line was on the table. They were in great shape. I was inclined to use silicone but a Mopar “expert” LOL at the shop advised me to use the cork….next time

4spd thanks - no RTV on the heads

I appreciate it all….
 
PS read a lot on how to get the finish to turn out….putting them in my wife’s oven???? Not gonna go there….

Waited for a 92 degree day here in Green Bay and put them in direct sun. Full sun, black paint on metal, surface temp had to be near the 200 degrees recommended. Worked like a charm.
 
I used bbq.
brodphish said:
PS read a lot on how to get the finish to turn out….putting them in my wife’s oven???? Not gonna go there….

Waited for a 92 degree day here in Green Bay and put them in direct sun. Full sun, black paint on metal, surface temp had to be near the 200 degrees recommended. Worked like a charm.
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here is what I do. Clean and dry the cover . Apply contact cement to the cover and the gasket. Put the gasket on the cover and install the cover dry no sealant needed. You will be able to take them on and off several times and reuse the gasket. The gasket will always be in place on the cover.
 
brodphish said:
Put new crinkle black finish on my covers and they turned out great! Now it’s time to put them back on and I’m hoping get it done with no leaks. I’m thinking:

1. Put a black RTV bead on the cover
2. Place the gasket (Fel-Pro Perfomance cork) on the cover
3. Place a black RTV bead on the head
4. Set the cover on the head and replace cover bolts

Is this the best sequence? Any tips for a no leaks outcome?

View attachment 1716435711

View attachment 1716435712
Click to expand...
No sealer on the head side of gasket.
 

Any engine that had solid lifters in it and required periodic valve adjustments I have used cork gaskets glued to the valve cover with Indian head shelac or gasgacinch and once the glue dried I would wipe a very thin layer of wheel bearing grease on the gasket where it contacts the head. This allows the cork to swell when oil soaks into it as designed, but the thin layer of grease keeps the gasket from sticking to the head when removed. Been doing it that way for almost 30 years and was taught to do it that way by a Fel Pro rep when at trade schoool. I have a solid lifter early corvette 283 in a 39 ford and have had the same valve cover gaskets on it since 2019 when I got it on the road with no leaks, and I pull the valve covers every fall for a gap check. Still don’t leak.
 
brodphish said:
Put new crinkle black finish on my covers and they turned out great! Now it’s time to put them back on and I’m hoping get it done with no leaks. I’m thinking:

1. Put a black RTV bead on the cover
2. Place the gasket (Fel-Pro Perfomance cork) on the cover
3. Place a black RTV bead on the head
4. Set the cover on the head and replace cover bolts

Is this the best sequence? Any tips for a no leaks outcome?

View attachment 1716435711

View attachment 1716435712
Click to expand...
Those turned out nice. Good job, Those were a Mopar homerun
 
I wondered about a "slight" smear on the heads. Part(s) of my vc gasket stuck to the head slightly and it was surgical clean.
Vc gaskets are not cheap here in Canuckistan.
CudaJason said:
Any engine that had solid lifters in it and required periodic valve adjustments I have used cork gaskets glued to the valve cover with Indian head shelac or gasgacinch and once the glue dried I would wipe a very thin layer of wheel bearing grease on the gasket where it contacts the head. This allows the cork to swell when oil soaks into it as designed, but the thin layer of grease keeps the gasket from sticking to the head when removed. Been doing it that way for almost 30 years and was taught to do it that way by a Fel Pro rep when at trade schoool. I have a solid lifter early corvette 283 in a 39 ford and have had the same valve cover gaskets on it since 2019 when I got it on the road with no leaks, and I pull the valve covers every fall for a gap check. Still don’t leak.
Click to expand...
 
Basic rule of gaskets is you only apply sealer to one side or the other — never both. In this case the valve cover side.

If you feel you have to apply sealer to both sides to stop a leak, the problem is with the parts. The sealing surface is not flat or not smooth, or the torque is being applied unevenly.
 
Put the covers back on over the weekend. RTV on the cover (followed the directions on the tube) and wheel bearing grease one the head side of the gasket. Had to trim the cork just a bit to fit. Sit for 2 days for the RTV to fully cure. Drove for an hour and….no leaks! We will see if it stands the test of time.

IMG_4473.jpeg
 
Update - I’ve driven the car a number of times this past month. No apparent leaks from the gaskets.

A sincere thanks to all FABO members that took the time providing advice
 
brodphish said:
Put the covers back on over the weekend. RTV on the cover (followed the directions on the tube) and wheel bearing grease one the head side of the gasket. Had to trim the cork just a bit to fit. Sit for 2 days for the RTV to fully cure. Drove for an hour and….no leaks! We will see if it stands the test of time.

View attachment 1716438248
Click to expand...

Nice engine. I have a couple of them in my shop.


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