Rebuilt 225 first start

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KosmicKuda

KosmicKuda

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So, I'm getting close to starting my 97,000 mile slanty for the first time since 1981-82 and thinking about things. 100% rebuild including head. As in 100%. 1964 225, bored .04, head milled .08, Carter BBS, Oregon 252 regrind, stock point ignition for now. In fact, I bought an electronic dizzy from a well known member here to go HEI but of course it got lost in shipping.

Oil....normally I'd pre-fill the filter but of course the filter points down and has the stand pipe so that's out.
Fuel....I'd like to get gas to the carb ASAP. The fuel system is bone dry as I've replaced the tank and everything else except the main fuel line.

Everybody talks about how important it is to light the engine off immediately to avoid damaging the cam so I'm a little apprehensive about spinning the motor without spark to get oil and gas where it needs to be.

But now that I write this....I think my plan will be to remove the rocker shaft, pushrods and plugs and spin the motor to get oil and fuel where they need to be. Reassemble, jump in and fire that mutha up.

I'm open for comments and suggestions.
 
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I use a 60cc syringe to put fuel in Float bowl thru vent tube on carburetor. That alleviates the fuel system issue. Double check everything. If you have a volt/ohm gauge you can check to make sure your getting voltage to your coil. Fire extinguisher.
 
As above with the fuel into the carb bowl.

It can take a loooooong time of cranking on a /6 to see the oil up in the rockers when fully assembled. If you do this, with the rocker shaft off, then I'd be interested to hear how long it takes to see oil up in the feed hole.

BTW, if you used a Moly based cam lube, I would not worry about the oiling. If you did not use a Moly based cam lube, I would be pulling the lifters and generously coat them and as much of the lobes that I could reach with this cam lube. Protection of the lifters and lobes in initial start up is its job. Just saturate the valve/rocker area with oil.

With a points system, disconnect the distributor lead and connect an ohmmeter to ground. You can use that to accurately set the ignition timing before you ever start it, but rotating the engine back and forth across #1 TDC firing point and seeing when the points open while rotating the engine CW through that point.
 
You can remove spark plugs, disconnect coil, crank engine until oil pressure comes up. At the same time it will carb with fuel. Start engine but don't let it idle until it comes up to temp while varying throttle to splash oil all around. Should take about 20 minutes. Adjust carb, set timing and test drive, enjoy.
 
OK. Thanks for all that.
I used Comp cam lube. The sticky red stuff. My main concern was getting oil into the filter and oil passages so turning it over w/o the valve train should do that. To a casual observer it looks stock, but the starter (not original) that came with the car was dead so it now has a mini. I believe the minis spin faster than the classic Mopar starter so maybe it won't take so long.

The oil is high zinc. IIRC, it's Lucas Hot Rod oil that i got from the Summit store. It's less than $30 for 5 quarts. I have yet to install my mechanical oil pressure gauge.

I have a metal can fuel filter but I think I'll sub a plastic see through just for start up. That way I can see if fuel is making it from the tank and through the pump.

I pre-timed by eyeball but I'll zero it in using an ohm meter. I'll really be surprised if it doesn't fire up right away.

I'm not a rookie at this stuff as I got my first cuda in 69. But this is my first slanty. I have a resto thread called "Not fast, just less slow" that hasn't been updated for a couple months because life got in the way. I still have to install the manifolds, carb, gas tank, drive shaft, radiator, etc. but I like to get my ducks in a row.
 
With fuel in the carb and timing set, I'd think it will fire right up too.

I've read where some folks have pressurized the oil system through the relief valve on the pump. Did you pack the pump with Vaseline?

And BTW, one trick to get some oil in the filter is to assemble the engine complete and as a last step flip it upside down on the stand, fill the filter and install it, then flip the engine back right-side up. The filter will drain to the level of the standpipe but with a tall filter and the tall standpipe, it will be about half full.
 
Fired it up last night just before 9 pm. Poured my 5 qts of oil over the valve train and put the valve cover on. The glass fuel filter is temporary as I wanted to see if gas was getting to the carb.
Until yesterday I didn't even know if my "new" used starter was going to spin the motor. (It did off the car though)
I decided not to sweat the oil pressure thing and just jumped in and "Fired that mother up!"
It lit within a couple revs and died. Added some more gas and tried again. Fired...stalled. Third time it stayed running with a little throttle so after about 10 seconds I got out and turned up the speed to a high idle and ran it for about 15 mins.
The choke worked, the carb seems to be right on, and the timing was TDC from the get go. I bumped it up to 10 BTC and it liked that.
The temp gauge was reading hot when i shut it off though. Later I realized that maybe the dial on the timing light may not have set to zero.
I'll try to load a video from my phone.

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It's killing me but I may not be able to go for a test drive tonight due to prior commitments.

20160925_114136.jpg


20160925_143935.jpg
 
Well...I did drive the car for the first time last night. I had to take care of a few things first like make and eat dinner, install the new battery hold down, etc.
It started right up but the alternator was making a little high-pitched noise but off I went, holding my phone recording video with one hand and shifting the 3 on the tree with the other. I could actually hear the new HD 10" clutch engage and grind off the newness from the disc. It was dusk and I only went around one city block then back in the garage to install the headlights. It was about 70 degrees out and rain is forecast for the next few days so I put the top down. Had some issues with that so I'll post something in the convertible section.
Anyway, the car is so much fun to drive which is exactly why I got it. I was feeling brave so I stopped at an old friend's house maybe 1-1/2 miles away. He came out and I showed him around the car. I still have not installed the grille, bumper, etc so I had the hood tied down with a rope. We were going to go for a short rode but when I tried to start it....uh oh....clickety clickety click. Not happening. I rolled it onto the street and we tried jumping it. Same thing. I put the top up and he drove me home where I borrowed the battery from my daily driver Neon. Tada! Instant start. Drove it home with him following for insurance.

The car runs great! With the original holy exhaust it sounds like an old hot rod from the 40's! I accidentally peeled out leaving a traffic light! It still has"new" 185-75x13 tires date coded from the early 80's. Driving it shows me what needs to be done. No interior lights are working, maybe one lamp in the dash is working, [probably why I didn't see the alternator gauge showing discharge) the speedo doesn't work and the interior is kinda shabby. And it needs an alternator. But it's the most fun I've had in a car in a long time.

225 +.040 completely rebuilt, Oregon 252 regrind cam, .080 off the head, 10 degrees BTC, stock puny exhaust for now, 3.23 rear and 3 speed stick. I have an 833 4 speed (no BH) and a complete OD 4 speed setup stashed in the basement. Also a1969 340 4 speed drive train with 8-3/4 but it's staying a slanty as long as I have it. I already have a v-8 A body.
 
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