Red 1968 Barracuda Coupe Basket Case

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DonR68Bcuda

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Location
Cincinnati Ohio
Just starting a new build thread & not sure how to proceed, will be adding as the months & years go by. Thanks for a great forum, seems i always end up here when I need how to pics. You guys rock!!
 
These are starter shots, was trying to sell it on cl but can't see letting a car go for 300 with title, even if it is a rusty, crusty shell
 

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Rear deck lid and trim is 67 ( maybe you knew that ). Not a big deal. I would rather have the larger brake lamps anyway. It does mean cutting reverse lamps into the rocker panel though.
 
Does anyone have any idea about the stripes on this car? I think they are really cool, would like to duplicate them somehow.
 
thanks, yeah i noticed that, did they use old stock early on in the 68 model year? its a 68, 318, 3 on the tree car according to the sn
 
thanks, yeah i noticed that, did they use old stock early on in the 68 model year? its a 68, 318, 3 on the tree car according to the sn

No sir. When the car got the little round side markers ( 68 0nly ) the rear wire harness changed a lot. You will likely find the reverse lamp sockets and wires inside the trunk.
 
My brother got me this for inspiration, i believe it is the Sox & Martin paint scheme but not sure, i was 4 years old in 68. I posted it in my cube at work, wish i was building cars but engineering pays the bills.
 

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http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/pts/5138096533.html

this is the current ad i am running on cl, its on the open market at this point, east of Cincinnati OH.

I would like to build it, i have a small machine shop & want to machine custom stuff, not like this one would ever be a full resto. The problem is: I have a one car garage & a better car stored in it (which will not be discussed) so with winter coming, it will be sitting out in the weather.
 
I has issues with the old hood, it was shot, so i took the old scrappy hood, painted it with rustoleum red primer then some leftover grey to make a 50 dollar old hood.

Heres an idea you all might like:

I machined a couple brackets to fix where the sheet metal near the nut plates was torn away and also to keep the bolts from slipping which messes up the body lines. This is an issue i have had with the other car, so these were a prototype. They work great! The only problem was that the self tappers didnt work so good, i would probably tack weld these on if I had a welder.
 

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I had a couple hours to spare so I got out my new zip wheel to remove that ugly rust on the passenger quarter. The previous body worker filled the voids with foam. No wonder the thing rusted out with all the body drains filled with foam. I would like to fit some wheel tubs in there flush with the outer edge of the rear frame rails. I suppose the big fab problem is how to match the wheel tubs to the quarter skins. I was looking at outer wheel houses for 150 a side, but would rather do something my way. Maybe I can just trim jegs wheel tubs to the contour of the quarter skin and use a small angle bracket every 4-6 inches. I figure i will trial fit everything with 1/8 pop rivets. I am looking for a used welder on cl. I would like a tig but will probably go cheap on this project. So I am looking for a mig with regulator but will probably run flux core to start.
 

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might I suggest the mig welder with bootle, figure on using the small mig wire, .023 it requires gas. the flux wire will come in . 035 and larger, and can be hard to weld thin sheetmetal with the larger size wire. and understand, the metal needs to very clean to wire weld.
I would at the minimum figure on a repoped quarter or the patch panels for it. with " skill", you can fab some decent repair panels for other areas.
widen rear wheel wells, move the inner well inward. make a splice to widen it, the rusted outer wheelwell?,:::: make or buy repair pieces for that.
remember Rome was built in a day, it took a LONG holiday weekend with lots of slave labor!?????? good luck.
 
hey Tek, thanks for the interest. The bumper thingys are pretty ruff & will have to go with the bumper/car, so I have to say no at this time.

hey bee, thanks for the interest & welding advice. Yes I hear welding sheet metal takes a lot of skill & I will keep your words in mind.

I spent the day at the mopar nats in Columbus Ohio yesterday, mopar heaven. I picked up a couple hundred bucks worth of odds & ends for another car I have. I didnt buy any parts for this one as I have a prospect from Akron Ohio coming down to get the red bc Saturday. This song may be over just as it started.

BTW, two thumbs up for the mopar nats swap meet, I'll be saving my cash for next year. I was like a kid in a candy store, fantastic deals on all those impossible to find parts.
 
heres the stuff i bought yesterday at the mopar nats

hp valve covers $30, hp breather $10, 340 balancer w single groove pulley $40, handed headlight bucket $5, 90 degree hp oil filter extension $40, formula s badge $10, 2 barracuda fender emblems $10 each, 2 amber bulbs $4, 2 sets of header gaskets $5 each, not shown 68 barracuda taillight lens in fair condition $25.

total cost $194 (ebay price say about a gazillion)
 

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Nice start, I would get the rough bodywork done first... Buy a good mig (Lincoln/Eastwood/Miller ) 125 volt, argon /CO2 option. You NEED ONE,just for the time & stress factor...
 
Nice start, I would get the rough bodywork done first... Buy a good mig (Lincoln/Eastwood/Miller ) 125 volt, argon /CO2 option. You NEED ONE,just for the time & stress factor...

yes X2 !!! if you are going to fool with these old cars, YA got to have a decent wire welder that uses gas. anyone that can weld, can get you doing correct decent welds in no time.
glad you found parts at Nats for fair prices. fair deals were always there if you looked. havn't been since bout 2013, but 15- 20 times before that.
 
well i have a guy wanting to buy the car for 400 bucks, I am seriously thinking of backing out on this deal, by my estimate the parts are worth 1000+ as my inventory shows.

red bc parts

windshield w trim 100
doors 150
back glass w trim 100
4 spd pedals 50
hood 50
dask w inst 75
rear springs 50
junk rear housing 75
trunk lid w trim 75
tail lights 50
ds quarter panel 100
title w id tags 75
steering column 50
xxxxxxxx
1000
 
What I know, Parting a car often brings more money and parting that particular car may be the best plan. Just keep in mind that you will work to earn every penny. Pulling parts, then pics, and descriptions for advertising, followed by box hunting, packing, then there's the getting shipping quotes for multiples.
My advise, If you really really want to build a 68 notch, find one in better foundation to start with and sell any duplicate parts you wont need.
Good luck with whatever route you take.
 
Thanks Redfish, sound advice

yes its a long road but i believe i am going to keep this one around for a while. I know it will cut into my tv time but i really dgs about the newest drug, newest disease and who is winning at nascar. Its been a long time since Jeff Gordon won and besides that, Jimmy Johnson cheats. lol my two cents.

& the red bc has this awesome web page!

the big challenge will be the frame rails, my brother says replace the whole front clip but i say splice some frame horns on to the existing frame rails. We would apprciate any advice in that area.
 
mat'l: 1/8 pop rivets, 16 gage aluminum, #6 x 3/4 sst screws

I fixed the broken tail lamp this afternoon, after 3 hours and a trip to both home depot & lowes it is look like it would go 100 mph, 200 mph is doubtful althought this is the stuff they build jets out of. Good thing i live within a mile of both HD & Lowes.

a pic is worth a thousand words
 

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matl: 80 grit emery paper, simple green mixed 20 to 1, rustoleum rust reformer

I am becoming an expert on rustoleum stuff since i can pick it up anywhere close by.

This is the first spot i am experimenting on. I will save everyone the details on all the other exterior rust spots i want to treat this way. Flash forward a month and hopefully it will be sealed up for winter. See pics. It will be interesting to see how this stuff holds up to weather.
 

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Does anyone have any idea about the stripes on this car? I think they are really cool, would like to duplicate them somehow.

Make a stencil. Tape some butcher paper or engineering drawing paper over the car and make some marks on the paper in key locations for alignment, for example the marker lights and the trunk opening. Then trace the outline on the paper. Fold the paper up and store it somewhere safe and dry. To transfer the pattern back on you do a "pounce" pattern. Watch this video starting at 1 minute, you will get the idea.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-fDr6AqSEA"]Crusader Signs - Making a Pounce Pattern - YouTube[/ame]
 
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