Regarding the biggermopar performance valve covers

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Mopar64340

Mopar64340

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Hey whats up guys.

So i got the rare valve covers to help clear my roller rocker set up. But i didnt think about them not having wholes. Has anybody used these. If so how do you deal with them not have the oil filler of the pcv valve whole ?

See pictures

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Did you get the baffles and the stud kit with them? If I may ask what did you pay for them? Your inbox is full.
 
On that topic...
Do the 318 and 440 use the same size valve covers?
Saw a set for sale; but....it may have been a scam......on "Plymouth Atomotive Parts" Facebook page.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Did you get the baffles and the stud kit with them? If I may ask what did you pay for them? Your inbox is full.
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I did not ! Im going to call the place i bought it from tomorrow to find out why i didnt get any of that.

I paid $300
 
Mopar64340 said:
Hey whats up guys.

So i got the rare valve covers to help clear my roller rocker set up. But i didnt think about them not having wholes. Has anybody used these. If so how do you deal with them not have the oil filler of the pcv valve whole ?

See pictures

View attachment 1716175216

View attachment 1716175217
Click to expand...
Pull a cover and take a picture of the underside. Post it here. The old covers were just knockouts.
 
lemondana said:
I sure wish they would start producing them again, at least another run!
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But not at the huge price tag!
Mopar64340 said:
Hey whats up guys.
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Just chillin out drinking coffee - Good morning…
Mopar64340 said:
So i got the rare valve covers to help clear my roller rocker set up. But i didnt think about them not having wholes. Has anybody used these. If so how do you deal with them not have the oil filler of the pcv valve whole ?
Click to expand...

Decide on what you want in the hole you need to drill. Often I have seen these used with breathers with tubes where the hoses run down to the collector or vacuum pump.

Grommet size hole has to be determined first. The fellas I met just used a hole saw bit in there hand held drill simply find the center of the hole, use a punch to create a dent to allow the drill bit a spot to sit so it doesn’t wonder around.
 
I used them on several engines but I always had the fins and logo milled off to hide the miss location of the breathers for my rocker clearance. I could not use the factory style breather with the baffle in the cover. I had to use the Mr. Gasket style with the baffle built into the breather. I ended up going to a fabricated aluminum set and got much more clearance.

With the mopar set I had to use 2 gaskets and a spacer for clearance plus mill the stands of on the inside. I used T&D rockers

The mount kit with studs and baffles were a separate package and was over $100 . The covers fit and work great on factory style heads with rocker stands and OEM style adjustable rockers.

The spacers can be laser cut at local machine shops out of 1/4 inch aluminum. If you turn the covers over you will see there is pushrod reliefs cut into the covers. These must be cut into the gaskets and the spacers. That is why they are reverse flange to use with offset rocker stands on W2 race heads

If you decide to go with different covers I would be interested in them for much more then you paid. But only if they are not cut or drilled. I have the installation kits for them for the standard gaskets and ordered the raised studs from Fastenal for spacers Fastenal closed near us so I wouldn't know where to get the studs anymore.

I use allen bolts on the fabricated covers. Never drill the covers or try to break a hole in them. Have them milled at a machine shop after locating the hole to clear the rocker gear. I have had the fins remove because the breathers didn't end up centered where they should have been compared to the designated spot in the covers.

They are called reverse flange for a reason.

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Oldmanmopar said:
I used them on several engines but I always had the fins and logo milled off to hide the miss location of the breathers for my rocker clearance. I could not use the factory style breather with the baffle in the cover. I had to use the Mr. Gasket style with the baffle built into the breather. I ended up going to a fabricated aluminum set and got much more clearance.

With the mopar set I had to use 2 gaskets and a spacer for clearance plus mill the stands of on the inside. I used T&D rockers

The mount kit with studs and baffles were a separate package and was over $100 . The covers fit and work great on factory style heads with rocker stands and OEM style adjustable rockers.

The spacers can be laser cut at local machine shops out of 1/4 inch aluminum. If you turn the covers over you will see there is pushrod reliefs cut into the covers. These must be cut into the gaskets and the spacers. That is why they are reverse flange to use with offset rocker stands on W2 race heads

If you decide to go with different covers I would be interested in them for much more then you paid. But only if they are not cut or drilled. I have the installation kits for them for the standard gaskets and ordered the raised studs from Fastenal for spacers Fastenal closed near us so I wouldn't know where to get the studs anymore.

I use allen bolts on the fabricated covers. Never drill the covers or try to break a hole in them. Have them milled at a machine shop after locating the hole to clear the rocker gear. I have had the fins remove because the breathers didn't end up centered where they should have been compared to the designated spot in the covers.

They are called reverse flange for a reason.

View attachment 1716175266

View attachment 1716175268

View attachment 1716175269

View attachment 1716175270
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Thank you for this.

Being how rare they are. I will go through all this trouble lol. Do you happen to have pictures of these instructions ?
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I used them on several engines but I always had the fins and logo milled off to hide the miss location of the breathers for my rocker clearance. I could not use the factory style breather with the baffle in the cover. I had to use the Mr. Gasket style with the baffle built into the breather. I ended up going to a fabricated aluminum set and got much more clearance.

With the mopar set I had to use 2 gaskets and a spacer for clearance plus mill the stands of on the inside. I used T&D rockers

The mount kit with studs and baffles were a separate package and was over $100 . The covers fit and work great on factory style heads with rocker stands and OEM style adjustable rockers.

The spacers can be laser cut at local machine shops out of 1/4 inch aluminum. If you turn the covers over you will see there is pushrod reliefs cut into the covers. These must be cut into the gaskets and the spacers. That is why they are reverse flange to use with offset rocker stands on W2 race heads

If you decide to go with different covers I would be interested in them for much more then you paid. But only if they are not cut or drilled. I have the installation kits for them for the standard gaskets and ordered the raised studs from Fastenal for spacers Fastenal closed near us so I wouldn't know where to get the studs anymore.

I use allen bolts on the fabricated covers. Never drill the covers or try to break a hole in them. Have them milled at a machine shop after locating the hole to clear the rocker gear. I have had the fins remove because the breathers didn't end up centered where they should have been compared to the designated spot in the covers.

They are called reverse flange for a reason.

View attachment 1716175266

View attachment 1716175268

View attachment 1716175269

View attachment 1716175270
Click to expand...
I got two in use sets, and they both have breathers. I like them, but they are a little porky. Since it sounds like being drilled has reduced their allure, any recollection how much lighter they got with a clean shave?

IMG_6454 a.jpg
 
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I did them both on a mill and used the existing pre-marked breather locations.
 
Mopar64340 said:
That gives me no detail on how to do it lol. Thanks anyways !
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If you'll post a picture of the under side of the covers where the breather hole is supposed to be, we can give you an idea about how to drill them. If it's made like I think it is, you can probably use a hole saw with a hand held drill, but we won't know for sure without seeing them. Telling someone you've been given no detail is kinda dumb when you yourself haven't posted pictures like you've been asked already. We can help, but we have to know what we're looking at.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you'll post a picture of the under side of the covers where the breather hole is supposed to be, we can give you an idea about how to drill them. If it's made like I think it is, you can probably use a hole saw with a hand held drill, but we won't know for sure without seeing them. Telling someone you've been given no detail is kinda dumb when you yourself haven't posted pictures like you've been asked already. We can help, but we have to know what we're looking at.
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I did post pictures. And nobody asked for picture of the inside? I just find it funny how you ask for help and everybody just tells you they have done it. But with no detail. Also for the record mine have no marks.

Telling him ive been given no detail isnt dumb. Because he gave me no detail. Thats what my whole post is about.

The way you try to bully me is dumb you always do that rusty. ***** annoying. Im just seeking help. And vague answers dont help and neither do bullys like you.



Ill see if i can post some pics of the inside tomorrow. Again thanks for not helping
 
You just need to drill or even knock out the plug in the two areas as needed. There is a baffle kit that installs on the underside to 3 raised post

From the cast valve cover instructions.
2. If a PVC or breather is to be used ,the knock out plug should be removed from the cover by tapping the knockout the center with a hammer and punch.The hole can then be cleaned up with a round file. Leave a small amount of the ridge or lip in the hole to retain the grommet (file the hole size to approximately 950'- .980"diameter) Be sure to
clean all metal filings and pieces of aluminum out of the cover before installing of th me cover. Use grommets (P5007921) when these PVC or baffles reused use with .750" diameter PVC or Breather lt is also suggested that extra baffles (P5007052) be added to the cover under the PVC or breather. The PVC breather grommet and extra baffles are not included with the valve cover set, but can be ordered separately.
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Discussion on correct grommets with photos www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/correct-breather-for-cast-aluminum-valve-covers.479872/


Baffles
Mopar Performance Valve Cover Breather Baffles

IMG_0672.jpeg
 
Mopar64340 said:
I did post pictures. And nobody asked for picture of the inside? I just find it funny how you ask for help and everybody just tells you they have done it. But with no detail. Also for the record mine have no marks.

Telling him ive been given no detail isnt dumb. Because he gave me no detail. Thats what my whole post is about.

The way you try to bully me is dumb you always do that rusty. ***** annoying. Im just seeking help. And vague answers dont help and neither do bullys like you.



Ill see if i can post some pics of the inside tomorrow. Again thanks for not helping
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gear down big shifter, we did in fact ask for a photo of the underside post #8
toolmanmike said:
Pull a cover and take a picture of the underside. Poat it here. The old covers were just knockouts. We would do it on the counter at the parts store
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and if you read the other messages they basically laid out how to do it.

anyway, look at the ones in this ad. you'll see where the knock outs would be
www.forabodiesonly.com

[SOLD] - (SALE PENDING) SB Mopar Performance Valve Covers $200 + shipping

Good used original (NOT new repop) Mopar Performance small block valve covers. They will be cleaned-up a bit before shipping. GREAT shape, no cracks or problems. Baffles installed. Also included (AS PICTURED) Newer 90 degree PCV valve, chrome Mopar breather, & Chrome cap. $200 + USPS shipping...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
you can also see where the baffles would screw in.

maybe you're more of a visual guy?
 
Mopar64340 said:
I did post pictures. And nobody asked for picture of the inside? I just find it funny how you ask for help and everybody just tells you they have done it. But with no detail. Also for the record mine have no marks.

Telling him ive been given no detail isnt dumb. Because he gave me no detail. Thats what my whole post is about.

The way you try to bully me is dumb you always do that rusty. ***** annoying. Im just seeking help. And vague answers dont help and neither do bullys like you.



Ill see if i can post some pics of the inside tomorrow. Again thanks for not helping
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Ok. I did offer help, yet all you want to zero in on is my tongue in cheel smartassness. So mark this on the wall. I could come back and help when you finally do post pictures, but I won't. You act like you can't take a smartass jab from a fellow car guy just ribbin you. I know what I would call that, but I'm trying not to talk like that anymore so I'll just call you a sissy. Use your imagination. You made the list.
 
Jesus Christ. I used a step bit with a hand held drill on mine. They are thick, about 3/8” on top, so you can’t knock out anything. Must be drilled. I have several sets, they clear my Hughes Engines rockers just fine, and Harland Sharps on another, even with the baffles which are not shown.

And if they don’t clear all by themselves on some setups, there are billet valve cover spacers available on eBay from a 1/4 to one inch if you want.

Pick your grommet, and then drill your hole.

On another set, I used a larger Forstner bit, (for wood) to drill a counter bore on the backside, drilling only halfway, then coming on top with a smaller sized bit to drill the grommet hole, which will give you a landing on the underside, because these covers are so thick on top.

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I don’t have a lathe or special machinery. I’m country, so I find other unorthodox ways that’ll work.

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Forstner bit? Interesting, I've used a lot of wood tools to work on alum over the years, most were carbide, never used a Forstner bit, I would have thought it might be a bit grabby?
 
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