Relocating the coil

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sargentrs

sargentrs

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Installed 4 pin HEI module on inner fender and moved coil up on top of inner fender too, about 4 months. Left old Mopar coil and ignition in place, disconnected, just in case the HEI module fries. Already happened once (my fault) and saved my rear. Got new Aurora plug wires and coil wire is too short to reach new coil. Is it ok to move it down to the inner fender or will that be too hot? Does upside down or right side up make a difference? Any and all input and advice are appreciated greatly!
 
Just make a longer coil wire! You can get what you need at napa. That is what I did. Best pic I have coil on passenger fender, you can see wiring going to it. MT:burnout:
 

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The E coils have no orientation preferences.
Only the oil filled one are particular about it.
 
Mopar Tim said:
Just make a longer coil wire! You can get what you need at napa. That is what I did. Best pic I have coil on passenger fender, you can see wiring going to it. MT:burnout:
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Thanks, Tim. However, I've been fighting an ignition problem for the past couple of weeks and bought the new Aurora wires as a possible solution. I'd like to install them, as is, to see if that cures my stuttering problem before I throw another variable into the mix.
 
sargentrs said:
Thanks, Tim. However, I've been fighting an ignition problem for the past couple of weeks and bought the new Aurora wires as a possible solution. I'd like to install them, as is, to see if that cures my stuttering problem before I throw another variable into the mix.
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Gotcha. I had a stuttering issue one time, turned out to be a wire in Dizzi, on breaker plate, as it moved it would lose contact, slow down and connect again Etc. MT:burnout:
 
chrysler coils are mounted horizontal stock, oil filled canister type. contact aurora about a longer wire, and some think it is good to keep coil and ignition box atleast 12" apart. I run moroso wires and needed a longer coil wire, thru an accel wire on that I had and she runs great, coil mounted away from heat
 
Mopar Tim said:
Gotcha. I had a stuttering issue one time, turned out to be a wire in Dizzi, on breaker plate, as it moved it would lose contact, slow down and connect again Etc. MT:burnout:
Click to expand...
Similar to what I'm experiencing. I can sit there in neutral and rev it WOT with no problems. Runs great, in gear, at idle and easing into the throttle. Even good when accelerating quickly from a standing start. But once it kicks into 3rd, I have to ease into the throttle or it'll start stuttering. And can't get over 60mph without it starting to stutter. Was fine up until a week or so ago, then that started.
 
Marcohotrod said:
chrysler coils are mounted horizontal stock, oil filled canister type. contact aurora about a longer wire, and some think it is good to keep coil and ignition box atleast 12" apart. I run moroso wires and needed a longer coil wire, thru an accel wire on that I had and she runs great, coil mounted away from heat
Click to expand...
That's how I have my Std UC16 coil and ignition module mounted. Both on the upper inner fender over a foot apart. It took 2 weeks to get my new wires from Aurora so I figure it'll take close to that long to get a longer coil wire too. In the meantime, I'll move my coil down to the inner fender between the dizzy and the firewall so their coil wire will reach, to see if that solves my problem. If so, I'll order a longer wire and move it back when I get it. Thanks for the tip!
 
Unless you have a oil filled coil, always mount it with the terminal and the wire to the dist, pointing down. Yes, upside down. This the electrons are helped by gravity and you get better output. :)
 
:???:
sargentrs said:
Similar to what I'm experiencing. I can sit there in neutral and rev it WOT with no problems. Runs great, in gear, at idle and easing into the throttle. Even good when accelerating quickly from a standing start. But once it kicks into 3rd, I have to ease into the throttle or it'll start stuttering. And can't get over 60mph without it starting to stutter. Was fine up until a week or so ago, then that started.
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Can you get over 60 in second? stutter? Im thinking on this:???: MT Holley carb? Holley not my forte' Have vacuum can on dizzy? MT
 
So under low vacuum situations, but not at acceleration , stutter? Weak spark im thinking. prob you are thinking this as well. MT
 
Mopar Tim said:
:???:

Can you get over 60 in second? stutter? Im thinking on this:???: MT Holley carb? Holley not my forte' Have vacuum can on dizzy? MT
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No, she doesn't like high rpms when driving now. Couple weeks ago she loved it. Yes, Holley 1945. Has vacuum advance and functional. Tested with hand vacuum pump and increased rpms at idle with increase in vacuum.
 
Mopar Tim said:
So under low vacuum situations, but not at acceleration , stutter? Weak spark im thinking. prob you are thinking this as well. MT
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That is correct. She likes the vacuum advance through 1st-2nd. I'm leaning toward the ignition problem. Everything I do, ignition related, seems to improve the situation. First, replaced cap/rotor but put wrong plug wires on it so ran like crap. Put old wires back on and it was better. Replaced timing chain last weekend. Improved low end but still stuttering at high end. Just got new plug wires in. If that doesn't do it, I'll starting looking at the distributor. Thanks!
 
Tried with vacuum advance line plugged? Off? Im pretty sure you have at this stage of trouble shooting. how are heads? valve guides? MT
 
I had similar problem with my 340 6pack and went thru all the tuning steps. Would stutter and hesitate when put in gear until got up to speed. Finally found that vacuum line to vacuum advance was in wrong port. Made huge difference. Check vacuum ports and hose routing.
 
It's fixed! Plug wires. Moved the coil to mid rear on the inner fender n hooked up the new Aurora plug wires. Took her out on a backwoods highway n ran her flat out with no problem. To answer y'alls questions...

Tim, yeah, I tried disconnecting the vacuum advance with no luck. Heads and valve guides are an unknown, I've never taken the valve cover off. However, plugs burn clean and she's not using any oil.

3406pk, vacuum advance is connected to the base of the carb where the Holley 1945 manual details.

Thanks for everybody's help and advice!
 
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