removable exhaust

[ValiantOne]

Hey All,

I have a Summit Racing aluminized steel header back exhaust system I intend to put on my car. I'd like to be able to remove it when needed to do subframe connectors, easier to get trans in and out, etc.

Without spending a TON on V band clamps it looks like Lap Joint Band Clamps would be my best bet. Yes, no?

Also, can you really get the components apart after they have been sitting in one of those band clamps for a year or three? Or is there some type of goop you can put on the pipe before you slide 'em together that would help?

Thanks for any insight.

CE

 

[Bad Sport]

Are you going out the back or dumping in front of the rear?

 

[mopar head]

I welded 3 hole flanges out back and use copper gaskets, the whole center assembly can drop out for clutches etc.

 

[ValiantOne]

Are you going out the back or dumping in front of the rear?

This is the kit I have:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-680144/overview/make/plymouth

I assumed they exited out the back. The specs say "split rear" for exit location.

Thanks,

CE

 

[Robbie2734]

Slip joint and high temperature silicon. I just replaced the motor in my car and they pulled apart easily. They never leaked!

 

[Woods74]

You want easy? Lapped over 1", secured with one-per-side #10 self-tapping lath screws, and a bolt on clamp covering the lath screw with the strap part so it doesn't back out..

I keep mine that way at key places just in case I need to pull a trans or something.

I welded 3 hole flanges out back and use copper gaskets, the whole center assembly can drop out for clutches etc.

Another excellent suggestion.

 

[Abodybomber]

You want easy? Lapped over 1", secured with one-per-side #10 self-tapping lath screws, and a bolt on clamp covering the lath screw with the strap part so it doesn't back out..

I keep mine that way at key places just in case I need to pull a trans or something.




Another excellent suggestion.

Nice idea,P.D.,74.. Too simple...

 

[RustyRatRod]

I welded 3 hole flanges out back and use copper gaskets, the whole center assembly can drop out for clutches etc.

This ^^^^^^^^^

Why does everybody have to reinvent the wheel? 3 hole flanges have been around 100 years for exhaust. Why use anything different? They WORK and are CHEAP.

 

[Abodybomber]

This ^^^^^^^^^

Why does everybody have to reinvent the wheel? 3 hole flanges have been around 100 years for exhaust. Why use anything different? They WORK and are CHEAP.

Yes Rob, they are.. Still a pain in the ***,lol.
O.P, a question,maybe two... ( What is the engine h.p.?, or are you uncorking in traditional tuning merits,or to make noise?) Seriously...

 

[AJ/FormS]

I put a slip joint about 12 inches behind the collector, with about 3 to 4 inches of overlap. At the back, just behind the muffler, I did the PoisonDart trick. Comes apart in seconds, once a year. If not separated at least that often carbon will accumulate in the slips and make separation only slightly more difficult. Penetrating fluid works.

 

[sireland67]

3-bolt flanges, easy.

 

[ValiantOne]

I welded 3 hole flanges out back and use copper gaskets, the whole center assembly can drop out for clutches etc.

I like that idea. Thank you.

 

[ValiantOne]

Slip joint and high temperature silicon. I just replaced the motor in my car and they pulled apart easily. They never leaked!

What is a slip joint? Is that what I am calling a band clamp?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-692250

What type of silicon do you use? Is it a paste? Do you have a brand name?

Thanks!

CE

 

[ValiantOne]

Yes Rob, they are.. Still a pain in the ***,lol.
O.P, a question,maybe two... ( What is the engine h.p.?, or are you uncorking in traditional tuning merits,or to make noise?) Seriously...

Right now a stock 273 so not much HP. Eventually a 350-400 horse 5.9 EFI Magnum.

It will be a spirited street cruiser and the only reason I see to take the exhaust off is to do transmissions, weld in frame tie in's, etc.

Definitely not to make more noise. The further I get into my 40's the more I appreciate a DULL roar.........

 

[ValiantOne]

You want easy? Lapped over 1", secured with one-per-side #10 self-tapping lath screws, and a bolt on clamp covering the lath screw with the strap part so it doesn't back out..

I keep mine that way at key places just in case I need to pull a trans or something.




Another excellent suggestion.

What kind of clamp do you use? Is it an exhaust clamp?

Thanks,

CE

 

[Bad Sport]

It will be a spirited street cruiser and the only reason I see to take the exhaust off is to do transmissions, weld in frame tie in's, etc.

Weld the connectors in before you install the exhaust.

How many trans swaps are you planning?

 

[Dr dan]

I used the bubble & flare system on my car, 2.5 inch tube, two bolts and solid as a rock no leaks. No gaskets. Any good local exhaust shop can make the parts, on most any dia. tube as long as they have adequate straight pipe.

 

[mopar head]

I like that idea. Thank you.

Your welcome, as you`ve read their`s many good ways to skin this cat, just my decision.
Copper gaskets can be reused and last the life of the system and longer.

 

[ValiantOne]

Weld the connectors in before you install the exhaust.

How many trans swaps are you planning?

Only takes one to make it worth it.

 

[ValiantOne]

I used the bubble & flare system on my car, 2.5 inch tube, two bolts and solid as a rock no leaks. No gaskets. Any good local exhaust shop can make the parts, on most any dia. tube as long as they have adequate straight pipe.

Does that system use a donut, or is it just steel on steel?

Thx,

C

 

[sireland67]

They are steel on steel, no gasket.

 

[cu440da]

I second the ball and socket system. Just used a bunch on my Warlock and they are waaaay better than the 3 bolt collectors. These have become the factory standard on cars in recent years.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-672230

 

[sireland67]

Man, 4 of them would hurt the wallet, but they are nice.