Removing Anodizing.... ??

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pastortom1

pastortom1

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Guys, I've been in the field of restoration for many years, BUT I'd like to pick some brains here on how to remove anodizing from aluminum trim parts.

I'm always looking for easier or safer methods for just about anything......and anodizing is a real PAIN.

You can buff all day with heavy compounds on your wheel, and the stuff just keeps fighting you...........(I wonder what Mopar actually did on these parts......were all of them actually anodized, or was there a special clearcoat made from granite..........??)

The ONLY way to properly restore an aluminum trim is to get the coating OFF before you start to polish..........

HOW have you guys found best to rid yourselves of the pesky mess?.....That is, without wet sanding all day or bead blasting? (they'll both lead to a really dull finish, and you'll have a nightmare of polishing on your hands.....)

INPUT..............:read2: :read2: :read2: :read2:
 
Well, the best way by far that I've found is to use oven cleaner (the rank stuff.....not the "no-fume" type)........I hate having to brush the stuff though......just a rinse never works right, unless you leave it on too long.....then you have too much etching for my taste...........

I'd like to discover a way to just soak it off without too much etching to the surface.........someone is always coming out with some new-fangled chemical compound.........I REALLY wish there was an easier way than the "acid".....

Any other discoveries? :read2:
 
Eastwood company has an anodize remover that will not harm the metal.
 
pastortom1 said:
Guys, I've been in the field of restoration for many years, BUT I'd like to pick some brains here on how to remove anodizing from aluminum trim parts.

I'm always looking for easier or safer methods for just about anything......and anodizing is a real PAIN.

You can buff all day with heavy compounds on your wheel, and the stuff just keeps fighting you...........(I wonder what Mopar actually did on these parts......were all of them actually anodized, or was there a special clearcoat made from granite..........??)

The ONLY way to properly restore an aluminum trim is to get the coating OFF before you start to polish..........

HOW have you guys found best to rid yourselves of the pesky mess?.....That is, without wet sanding all day or bead blasting? (they'll both lead to a really dull finish, and you'll have a nightmare of polishing on your hands.....)

INPUT..............:read2: :read2: :read2: :read2:
Click to expand...


I found out about the oven cleaner after I done all the rest of the trim with several different grits of sandpaper and running them on the buffing wheel. I got to try it on the bottom trunk trim peice. What a breeze! Just sprayed it on, held it of the wood heater for a few minutes and practically washed it off with water.
 
Sorry to highjack the thread, but along the same lines...

After you srtrip and buff the part, do you guys re-seal it with something? There's no home anodization kit is there?
 
I personally do not generally coat the parts......BUT, clearcoat can be put directly over a buffed and cleaned part with pretty good results........but as with all cleared surfaces, you have to be careful of scratches....you take care of it just like your finished paint job.........

...........and do NOT use Dupli-Color clears or other such coatings...they will dull the finish, and do not protect well enough.........

....Use a good acrylic clearcoat with catalyst, just like the body shop uses on your car........it is very shiny, and extremely transparent.....a real wet look for your parts.

As far as home anodizing, I'll leave that to the next responses........I believe there are some products out there............BUT.......... :read2:
 
Alsa Produsts offers speed clear in a "KIller Can" . Worth 40 bucks ? I can't say... yet.
 
The "Killers" are great quality products, like their chrome finishes.......but once you activate the can, it's spent........if you only need a little bit, the whole can is gone regardless............

If you have a small compressor (by small, I mean just that........all you need is between 20 and 40 pounds, and enough cfm to run a small touch up gun) and a few bucks to invest, buy yourself a can of catalyst and a quart of clear.......it'll last you forever if you're clearing small parts like that, and you can mix only what you need........just be sure to wear a respirator......NOT a dust mask...a charcoal canister respirator............... Capishe?

By the way, if you run across an area on your aluminum that has to be repaired (scratches, little gouges), you can sand the area carefully, finishing it off with a 400 grit black paper.....after that, use a buffing wheel (on a bench grinder if you don't have a big one) and buff with "stainless" compound (usually black color).........you'll get a nice finish....it cuts right through the 400, and gets you ready for whatever finish polishing you want to do.

(Dang that anodizing though............I HATE that stuff). :toothy10:
 
I used Crystal Draino dissolved in a bucket of warm water. You'll find the coating floating on the surface within 20 min. Ready for repair and buffing.
 
This crystal drano is interesting........they always say "it won't hurt your pipes"..........

How much drano?............. Give us a formula to test out...............:read2:
 
Great thread guys! I've got a bent up headlight bezel to experiment on.
That anodizing is tough stuff. Thanks for the info. toolmanmike
 
pastortom1 said:
This crystal drano is interesting........they always say "it won't hurt your pipes"..........

How much drano?............. Give us a formula to test out...............:read2:
Click to expand...

Sorry, I don't have a specific formula. I can tell you I used a 3 gallon bucket and a fairly high concentration of Draino. Hot water is key. You'll know it's working when small bubbles rise from the part. Keep an eye on it. If you're unsure, pull the part from time to time to check progress. Should require no more than 30 minutes. A gray "smut" will form on the part or float to the top. It'll rinse off the part with fresh water. If there are patches of anodizing left on the part, drop it back in the soup. Make sure you use protective gloves and goggles.

I found this to be very fast and easy. For long parts I built a trough from a section of vinyl rain gutter, capped on the ends, sealed with RTV.

drainobath.jpg


raingutter.jpg
 
When I did the aluminum on the Dart at left, I went to a company that did anodizing and had them remove it. Then, I sanded and polished. When completed, I took the parts back over and had them re-anodized. Do it soon after polishing is completed because aluminum starts to oxidize quickly. Also, clear anodizing puts a a slightly milky colored haze on the part. It still looks great, but not as great as one freshly polished with jeweler's rouge. On the other side, the shine lasts a lot longer.
 
i have found that oven cleaner works well just don't walk away and leave it on for a long time
 
There are powdercoats that look just like chrome. It's pretty amazing ! I sell for an Acura dealer and we send off argent wheels and they come back looking exactly like chrome , but the P/C doesn't react with the aluminum and try to seperate so it lasts much longer.
 
PastorTom, the key to working with the Easy Off oven cleaner on anodizing is to keep the part wet with it, and NEVER let it dry. Keep spraying it on there until the 'gray smut' (great word!!!) starts lifting, and keep spraying until all of the anodizing is removed. Then rinse it with lots of clean water.

As you already know, heavy gloves and eye protection are an absolute MUST as this is some nasty stuff to work with.

I like the Drano idea though. Might give that a shot the next time I get something in to coat that's been anodized.
 
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