replace motor or not

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Mark Banxs

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Hello, I have a 1966 Barracuda that has 49k original miles on it. It has the 225 slant 6 in and it runs like crap to say the least. I have a 318 that I was thinking about rebuilding and putting it in the car. My question for the group is...do I try to find someone that can get it running correct and keep it original or take out the 225 and put in the 318, or sell the car completely to someone who is all about it being original?

Thanks in advance
 
First, maybe you can expound on "runs like crap to say the least". That's a pretty wide brush. If you mean "it has no power compared to a V8" then, you may as well not waste any time on it. If you mean "it'd probably run pretty good if it was running "right", then we might can help.
 
(New Member from 2021? How does that work?)

Anyway, what part of St. Paul are you in, Mark? Whereabouts, roughly?

And is the car driveable? As in, would it make it to Zimmerman?
 
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If planing on selling just get it running well
Agreed. Car will be a hard sell if it doesn't run right, so:
* Step 1: Get 'er running right.
* Step 2: Re-evaluate.

Oh, and to the OP: Dropping a 318 into it isn't as easy and straight forward as it would seem, as there are a lot of parts that would need to be sourced.
 
Looking back on my lifetime, I ruined many cars because I wouldn't leave them alone. At the time, I thought of it as making them better (maybe... probably not). This may not fit your situation.
My thoughts started to change after I had a real drag car. Then I wanted no compromises. Drive a street car like a street car. If I wanted to go fast, I needed to keep it off the street.
I had a new 72 Demon 225 slant six automatic. It was so weak, I could feel the AC compressor cycle on and off at highway speeds. But, that car was actually a lot of fun. I recently saw on this website "I would rather drive a slow car fast than drive a fast car slow."
I had aluminum US Indy 7" & 8" wheels with F60 & L60 Goodyear Polyglas tires. I think everyone thought it looked really good. That was the only thing I ever changed on it. Some of my friends and I would swap cars sometimes for over a month at a time. One of my friends would swap his 3 years old triple black 69 RS Z28 with me. That's how I learned to drive a manual transmission. He liked my Demon for dating because it had a bench seat.
My thoughts now are if it is a pretty nice original low mileage car, I would hate to see it taken apart and put back together with who knows what.
 
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Agreed. Car will be a hard sell if it doesn't run right, so:
* Step 1: Get 'er running right.
* Step 2: Re-evaluate.

Oh, and to the OP: Dropping a 318 into it isn't as easy and straight forward as it would seem, as there are a lot of parts that would need to be sourced.
Especially with the early cars. If it's complete and even runs at all, leaving it as is will be easiest.
 
First, maybe you can expound on "runs like crap to say the least". That's a pretty wide brush. If you mean "it has no power compared to a V8" then, you may as well not waste any time on it. If you mean "it'd probably run pretty good if it was running "right", then we might can help.
It has been a struggle since I bought it. I figured it needed a tune up(plugs, wires etc.). Did that and that did nothing. I had it to a speed shop to go over it and that leaded me to bigger problems which I have taken care of, they cut the exhaust off of it thinking that the muffler was plugged and when i picked up from them I barely made it home.

The main issue is, I have killed the battery a time or two getting it to just start, once its started it will idle ok, with a miss as the motor shakes a bit. When driving its wants to kill at stop lights and stop signs so I need top put it in neutral. If I leave it in drive it sounds like its going to jump out of the car as it shakes around the engine compartment. like its losing fuel pressure but I put on a clear filter before the car and its never empty during the shaking. When cruising at 55-60 it has a miss to it.

My original intent was to keep it as a cruiser and leave the slant in the car as I have a old truck with a big block I can drive when looking for that kind of experience. But I cant figure out what's going on with it. My wife wont ride in it anymore in fear we will be stranded some where and I have to admit I kind of feel the same way. I do carry my jump box just in case it needs a jump.
 
It has been a struggle since I bought it. I figured it needed a tune up(plugs, wires etc.). Did that and that did nothing. I had it to a speed shop to go over it and that leaded me to bigger problems which I have taken care of, they cut the exhaust off of it thinking that the muffler was plugged and when i picked up from them I barely made it home.

The main issue is, I have killed the battery a time or two getting it to just start, once its started it will idle ok, with a miss as the motor shakes a bit. When driving its wants to kill at stop lights and stop signs so I need top put it in neutral. If I leave it in drive it sounds like its going to jump out of the car as it shakes around the engine compartment. like its losing fuel pressure but I put on a clear filter before the car and its never empty during the shaking. When cruising at 55-60 it has a miss to it.

My original intent was to keep it as a cruiser and leave the slant in the car as I have a old truck with a big block I can drive when looking for that kind of experience. But I cant figure out what's going on with it. My wife wont ride in it anymore in fear we will be stranded some where and I have to admit I kind of feel the same way. I do carry my jump box just in case it needs a jump.
Your main issue as is with a LOT of people is guesswork with ZERO diagnosis. I'm not being a smartass, I'm just telling the truth. Everybody wants to throw parts and work at something and never take time to do proper diagnosis. The good news is you're HERE and we can help with that. The FIRST thing I would do is go to the parts store and rent a compression tester and run a proper compression test on it. Record the numbers and post them here. Cylinders from front to back are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. Post the numbers from each cylinder and we can tell you a lot more.
 
You need to have a Mopar guy look at it. By the way, I talked to you at MITP. PS I have a neighbor that does Mopar work Avon MN
 
Diag it and fix it... a car is only original once and if you plan to sell it, it really does matter even as a slant 6. Diag it as said above.. or try to find a mopar guy local to you (has to be one on the forum here) that would be willing to check it out.
 
Your main issue as is with a LOT of people is guesswork with ZERO diagnosis. I'm not being a smartass, I'm just telling the truth. Everybody wants to throw parts and work at something and never take time to do proper diagnosis. The good news is you're HERE and we can help with that. The FIRST thing I would do is go to the parts store and rent a compression tester and run a proper compression test on it. Record the numbers and post them here. Cylinders from front to back are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. Post the numbers from each cylinder and we can tell you a lot more.
Bingo! One step at a time. Got compression? Check! Got good (clean and new) fuel and a good, clean carb? Check! Got spark (and in the right order)? Check!

Yadda, yadda, etc, etc, ad infinitum....
 
A good mechanic is like a good doctor.... all about diagnosing the issue.
Then for what is wrong and that only for a start. Like he said above^^^^
 
Replacing the engine because it doesn't run well is like cutting off your hand because you have a paper cut. :BangHead: :rofl:
 
When Cars sit a long time, there are issues that manifest themselves. You have to check the fuel system and check for Vacuum leaks. Those 1bbl's are always gummed up along with the fuel tank if not changed already. This is most likely where your problem is, but like the guys said diagnosis is key. Does she smoke or burn oil?
 
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