replacement B&M and Hurst shifter cables

[65TerrorCuda]

Anybody have a good experience with replacement cables? I tried a couple Speedmaster cables and they're terrible. Got a B&M on order but heard they've got a bunch of slop built into them as well, minumum 0.150". The 30 year old Hurst V-matic 2 cable had 0 slop but a ton of resistance once installed. If I hadn't burned it on the exhaust, well, I wouldn't be asking. The Hurst replacement is over $110, not much more than the whole shifter cost in the 90's.

 

[junkyardhero]

The Hurst replacement is over $110, not much more than the whole shifter cost in the 90's.

well at 110 that's only like 1/4 what a new V matic costs, so you buy a new v-matic and it comes with the cable-- that's technically money ahead!

 

[65TerrorCuda]

well at 110 that's only like 1/4 what a new V matic costs, so you buy a new v-matic and it comes with the cable-- that's technically money ahead!

I like your way of thinking. Wonder if the V matic is still made in USA

 

[Oldiron440]

I’ve seen the cables on Summits website before, at least B&M cables…

 

[65TerrorCuda]

I’ve seen the cables on Summits website before, at least B&M cables…

I've got a B&M on the way, just curious if it's decent. I read it's around .100" of slop, which is not good. All 3 cables I've received so far appear to be made in the same factory to various levels of junkiness.

B&M and Hurst are owned by MSD as I recall, and the Hurst says made in China so I'm guessing they're all in that boat now.

 

[str12-340]

B&M cables work great with B&M shifters, not sure paired with other brands. Heat resistant sleeve recommended.

 

[Duster346]

The majority of Holley's products (and all of the umbrella companies, Hurst, b&m, msd, etc, etc) are made in china. They have been owned by a private equity firm for the last several years.

 

[junkyardhero]

I like your way of thinking. Wonder if the V matic is still made in USA

i am undefeated in the free marketplace of ideas.

i got a V matic 3 with some parts a few weeks ago, it's not very old and it's still made in yoosah

*i should clarify there is a USA stamp on the **** lever. how much of it is made here and with what parts, i'm unsure of.

 

[CRUZE 418]

Are we talking Morse control type cable here? Or something else? I had to get a longer cable for my B&M rachet shifter. Control Cable in California. They will make one if you need something special.
Just Google it.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

I melted mine and fixed it. Mine spread out like a peacock when the heat melted it . I took it off and heated the area where it spread. Then took lashing wire and wrapped it tight around the affected area like a spring keeping the wraps as close as possible for about a foot. Stopping it from spreading. Then doubled up heavy duty shrink wrap.

The way I kept it from the heat again was I ran it out the passenger side of the hump . Up over the bell and held it against the trans with holders on the bell bolts. I install all of them like that now and never had an issue. Also run it through a good quality heat wrap.

I also have seen the shifters installed backwards and ran the cable from the back front. This is a 4L80 Cable goes through the center of the bench seat, This puts park all the way back.

 

[65TerrorCuda]

Are we talking Morse control type cable here? Or something else? I had to get a longer cable for my B&M rachet shifter. Control Cable in California. They will make one if you need something special.
Just Google it.

Yeah it's a Morse cable. It melted near the middle and got a bunch of resistance.

Decided to try to fix it myself, got soooo close. But then I melted the inner cable with too much heat to the cable end.

I melted mine and fixed it. Mine spread out like a peacock when the heat melted it . I took it off and heated the area where it spread. Then took lashing wire and wrapped it tight around the affected area like a spring keeping the wraps as close as possible for about a foot. Stopping it from spreading. Then doubled up heavy duty shrink wrap.

The way I kept it from the heat again was I ran it out the passenger side of the hump . Up over the bell and held it against the trans with holders on the bell bolts. I install all of them like that now and never had an issue. Also run it through a good quality heat wrap.

I also have seen the shifters installed backwards and ran the cable from the back front. This is a 4L80 Cable goes through the center of the bench seat, This puts park all the way back.

View attachment 1716493380

That's a nice setup! Always wondered how you could have a race shifter along with a bench.

B&M cables work great with B&M shifters, not sure paired with other brands. Heat resistant sleeve recommended.

Speedmaster has sent me 2 "Hurst" cables but are definitely B&M. The only difference I can see is the hole in the eyelet is larger in the B&M. I made an itty bitty sleeve adapter so I can use either.
I did install heat sleeve after I melted it. Wrong way to do it but I'm good at that.

 

[65TerrorCuda]

I've got a big favor to ask: Does anyone have a loose cable they would check backlash on?

 

[CRUZE 418]

Backlash? I have two mistakes, 5' & 6 ' new cables.

 

[mbaird]

There are 3 different length cables and 2 versions ( Reg and HD) you will need to specify which because they backlash is most likely different for each .

 

[65TerrorCuda]

Backlash? I have two mistakes, 5' & 6 ' new cables.

If you hold one end steady and move the other end in and out, I'm asking how much internal slack is there before you get movement. Hope I made better sense.

There are 3 different length cables and 2 versions ( Reg and HD) you will need to specify which because they backlash is most likely different for each .

These are standard cables, not HD or anything special. 4' or 5' would work.

The Hurst cable is by far the wimpiest looking one at least internally. It's a solid .081" stainless wire but by far the most precise. Maybe melting it made it that way?

All the replacements are a really stiff but thick as hell stranded inner cable. Way way more burly.

 

[CRUZE 418]

I will see if I can get the backlash tomorrow afternoon. Will check both of my cables. I have an 8' ter on my Hemi. I was just a little short with the supplied 5'. The 6' was into the back of the pan, so I went longer, 8' all the way around the front of the pan. I have heat shield on the cable, my headers are so close to everything, I will be surprised if it all works.
It's new, took the 4-speed out. Would be nice if the cable was out the back and regular shift pattern!

 

[65TerrorCuda]

The way I kept it from the heat again was I ran it out the passenger side of the hump . Up over the bell and held it against the trans with holders on the bell bolts. I install all of them like that now and never had an issue. Also run it through a good quality heat wrap.

Already got the clamps and heat wrap as I read about your install in another post. Figure since the trans is out I'll mock it up on the bench so I'm not crawling around so much. Much appreciated!

I will see if I can get the backlash tomorrow afternoon. Will check both of my cables. I have an 8' ter on my Hemi. I was just a little short with the supplied 5'. The 6' was into the back of the pan, so I went longer, 8' all the way around the front of the pan. I have heat shield on the cable, my headers are so close to everything, I will be surprised if it all works.
It's new, took the 4-speed out. Would be nice if the cable was out the back and regular shift pattern!

4 speed manual? I thought about getting a rear exit shifter but don't know how I'd route the cable. Maybe I'm just lazy.

 

[mbaird]

Overheating will make them spongy. Been there .