REV-N-NATOR vs MSD Street Fire CDI

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zac_F71

zac_F71

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Which is the best bang for the buck? I did a on Google and here search and am still reading the thread on Moparts about it.. this is for power gains aside, bang for buck reliability..

I just rewired my 71 Demon's engine harness that was previously setup with factory electronic ignition and am thinking the Wells box I have may not keep up with the new motor - a true 10.5:1 static 450ish hp 383

$50 difference, and I'd have to wire in the MSD - I have a Blaster 2 coil, 4 prong ballast, and a brand new Proform distributor

REV - pro's
Plug and play
Digital
Rev limiter

Con's
$209.00 plus shipping

MSD - pro's
Digital
Rev limiter
$152.00 free shipping

Con's
Has to be wired in over the wiring I already did..
 
Heard lots of good things about the Rev-n-nator units, not only are they made in the USA but made right here in Minnesota!
 
There is also the Fbo box with built in rev limiter. I think under 200 with new coil and bypasses the resistor
 
I run a rev-n-nator and its fantastic. No mucking about to install it. Bolt it in where the old one was and go. As for their advertised horsepower claims? I can't guarantee that. I haven't run it on a dyno vs any other system. One thing I will suggest with the rev-n-nator is to get the distributor they recommend. I'm running mine with an old reman and I know I have some spark problems (a very rare miss which was worse before I got the rev-n-nator). I'm pretty confident switching to their recommend distributor will really clear things up and make the thing pull hard.
 
racerkilla said:
There is also the Fbo box with built in rev limiter. I think under 200 with new coil and bypasses the resistor
Click to expand...
You can also do the resistor delete with the MSD, but I have yet to see anyone to show how to do that.. or that there is a benefit besides a couple oz's of weight..
 
I run the fbo box in my duster and works flawless. Bypassing the resistor just allows full battery/alt charge voltage for a bit more power I would think. They included a jumper wire that left the resistor in the car still. I keep the stock box and coil in the car just in case a failure I can swap stock parts back in to get home. Nice there was no cutting with the fbo kit. easy to reverse if need be.
 
I have a rev-n-nator on my 73 dart 340 sport and i love it....I also have a NIB rev-n-nator ignition box on the shelf for my next project once I switch over to electronic ignition...It currently has points distributor so I currently have pertronix conversion on it...
 
Mega-jolt, EDIS/COP and a trigger wheel. Roll your own advance curve on your PC and no timing chain slop. Of course its beyond this thread!
 
I have used both older FBO box and new Rev n nator. FBO was before they had Rev limiter, but very reliable and great power and rpm stable. Went to rev box for the Rev limit before FBO became avail w Rev limit. Rev box is good on power can't tell diff. Limiter works well, saved over speed on trans fail.
 
pishta said:
Mega-jolt, EDIS/COP and a trigger wheel. Roll your own advance curve on your PC and no timing chain slop. Of course its beyond this thread!
Click to expand...
I'm not sure how to even begin a DIS system on a big block.. BUT it's out of what budget I'm willing to spend anyway..
 
zac_F71 said:
You can also do the resistor delete with the MSD, but I have yet to see anyone to show how to do that.. or that there is a benefit besides a couple oz's of weight..
Click to expand...

????? I'm not familiar w/ the "Streetfire", but I don't know any capacitive
discharge ign. that uses the ballast resistor. The only purpose for the ballast is to protect
the points/std. elec. boxes and coil at low rpm's that use charge system voltage saturation
to power the coil primary. CDI's transform & discharge capacitors sending 100's of volts to
"bombard" the primary side of the coil. This increases the current energy as well as volts
across the plugs.And as the moniker implies "Multiple" capacitors discharge for more than
one spark event at low speeds. I am considering the Rev-a-nator myself, and am curious
to see more member input here w/real-world results,so far so good.
:coffee2:
 
Killer6 said:
????? I'm not familiar w/ the "Streetfire", but I don't know any capacitive
discharge ign. that uses the ballast resistor. The only purpose for the ballast is to protect
the points/std. elec. boxes and coil at low rpm's that use charge system voltage saturation
to power the coil primary. CDI's transform & discharge capacitors sending 100's of volts to
"bombard" the primary side of the coil. This increases the current energy as well as volts
across the plugs.And as the moniker implies "Multiple" capacitors discharge for more than
one spark event at low speeds. I am considering the Rev-a-nator myself, and am curious
to see more member input here w/real-world results,so far so good.
:coffee2:
Click to expand...
The MSD Streetfire box is a MSD digital 6al with a different cover, and $50 cheaper than the actual digital 6al

So here is a question? Is it normal for the ballast resistor to be 200* while running? I'm seriously considering the MSD, mostly cause I already have a good coil, and I'd be ok with eliminating the ballast..
 
zac_F71 said:
The MSD Streetfire box is a MSD digital 6al with a different cover, and $50 cheaper than the actual digital 6al

So here is a question? Is it normal for the ballast resistor to be 200* while running? I'm seriously considering the MSD, mostly cause I already have a good coil, and I'd be ok with eliminating the ballast..
Click to expand...

Yes, the ballast is supposed to get hot, that is exactly what it's job is. It takes excess
current at idle and low speeds drawn by the coil and coverts it to heat, and it's in the eng.
compartment which easily runs 140/160deg. & up. I've never shot one w/my inframometer
but I imagine that's not abnormal if your idling/ poking around. MSD will make it history &
a non-issue, your call.
 
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