Reverse light

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HEMIIGGY

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Hi guys. My light goes on when I hold the reverse in. But as I let it go light goes off. I tried adjusting the linkage but then it. Would get stuck?? Can a faulty switch be my problem.
Here's a pic of my demon four speed. All original California car. #-o:???::???::banghead::banghead:
 

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Are you talking about the 'Reverse' light under the dash or your back up lights? Either way, your linkage should not have anything to do with it. If your transmission goes fully and properly into reverse, the reverse light switch on your tranny should send power to the 'Reverse' light under the dash and your back up lights. The reverse light switch should be a 2 prong switch. One of the wires is switched power going into the reverse light switch, and the other is power going out to the 'Reverse' light under the dash and the backup lights when the tranny is in reverse. Try this test with a circuit tester. With the ignition switch ‘ON’ (and the car not running), one of the wires going to reverse light switch should be hot. If not, look for a fuse or some other problem like a bad connection. More than likely, you will have power going to the switch. Then put the transmission in reverse. If the switch is working properly, the other wire will now be hot. If not, the switch is likely bad. I guess there could be something wrong inside the transmission, but most likely the problem will be the switch. Let me know how the test works.
 
When I put it in reverse and hold the shifter the switch turns both lights on the outside and under the dash. But when I let it go. It goes off. Like if it doesn't fully make contact. And yes I adjusted the levers with a pin thru the middle.
 
Ok then.
There are 5 possibilities. 1)External linkage adjustment, 2)Faulty switch, 3) internal part problem, 4) switch not engaging properly, and 5)loose external lever on on the end of the internal lever pin.(shift fork)
Heres what I would do.I would check in this order:5,2,1,4,3.
- #5; This is the most common problem.If the lever is loose it will require additional pressure on the stick to over-travel at the box to turn on the light.Those levers have to be tight. That means firstly, they have to be tight on the studs. If theyve been run loose, the corners of the stud will be rounded off, and just tightening the nuts wont work for long. You have 3 options; 1)replace the worn parts, 2) repair them, 3) Red loc-tite them 4) weld them. If still no good, go to #2.(might as well check them all).
-#2;Unscrew the switch, stick it back in the socket, have a helper observe the lights while you diddle the pin.If good,go to #1
-#1; I would disconnect the external linkage, while its in reverse. Still no light, go to#4
-#4; Too many washers between the switch and the case.There should be just one thin paper gasket in there. If still no good, go to #3.
-#3; If youve come this far its time to look inside the box. Drain some fluid, and pop the cover off. Put the box in reverse.Eyeball the switch-pin to lever-shoe engagement.Either the switch is too short or the shoe is damaged, or the pin is not popping out far enough.
Ok. Now good luck.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Ok then.
There are 5 possibilities. 1)External linkage adjustment, 2)Faulty switch, 3) internal part problem, 4) switch not engaging properly, and 5)loose external lever on on the end of the internal lever pin.(shift fork)
Heres what I would do.I would check in this order:5,2,1,4,3.
- #5; This is the most common problem.If the lever is loose it will require additional pressure on the stick to over-travel at the box to turn on the light.Those levers have to be tight. That means firstly, they have to be tight on the studs. If theyve been run loose, the corners of the stud will be rounded off, and just tightening the nuts wont work for long. You have 3 options; 1)replace the worn parts, 2) repair them, 3) Red loc-tite them 4) weld them. If still no good, go to #2.(might as well check them all).
-#2;Unscrew the switch, stick it back in the socket, have a helper observe the lights while you diddle the pin.If good,go to #1
-#1; I would disconnect the external linkage, while its in reverse. Still no light, go to#4
-#4; Too many washers between the switch and the case.There should be just one thin paper gasket in there. If still no good, go to #3.
-#3; If youve come this far its time to look inside the box. Drain some fluid, and pop the cover off. Put the box in reverse.Eyeball the switch-pin to lever-shoe engagement.Either the switch is too short or the shoe is damaged, or the pin is not popping out far enough.
Ok. Now good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks it's still not working. I did all the above except drain fluid and go inside. Will do that next.
 
Shorten the reverse rod 1 revolution see if that solves it.

If it does, make sure all shifting works properly.
 
I have heard that the aftermarket switch ( if that is the case here, may not be ) in the trans need a little grinding down at the neck because it won't let the switch screw in far enough. It may need just that little bit to engage. May not be the case here, just throwing it out there.
 
duster360 said:
I have heard that the aftermarket switch ( if that is the case here, may not be ) in the trans need a little grinding down at the neck because it won't let the switch screw in far enough. It may need just that little bit to engage. May not be the case here, just throwing it out there.
Click to expand...

I have the exact same problem. I just rebuilt my Transmission and now have same problem described in the first post. Adjusting the linkage slightly makes no difference.
I do have a newer aftermarket backup switch, but it worked fine before the rebuild. I am wondering if new bearings and thrust washer has taken some of the play out of the shaft assembly and now not making solid contact on the ball of the switch?

Was this ever figured out?
 
It`s the aftermarket switches. garbage..
I put my original back in and just deal with the drips on the driveway:protest:
The only solution I figure is to weld an extra nub on the point that contacts the switch,
which I refuse to go through all that crap unless the box is going through a rebuild.
 
mopar head said:
It`s the aftermarket switches. garbage..
I put my original back in and just deal with the drips on the driveway:protest:
The only solution I figure is to weld an extra nub on the point that contacts the switch,
which I refuse to go through all that crap unless the box is going through a rebuild.
Click to expand...

I think your right. I tried using a thinner O-ring to try to gain that extra few thou's but same issue. Can't stand leaks, as I just fixed a few of them. I'll be putting up with the flickering back-light light under the dash for now, until next time I have to drain the Tranny.
 
remove the gasket on the switch and just use permatex #2 on the 2 prong switch threads.
 
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